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A stay in Rome with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel

foversta
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From the moment I became the proud owner of the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel, I had only one idea in mind: to spend a few days with it in Rome. Simply because Bulgari is a brand founded in Rome and the influence of the Eternal City can be felt in the style of the watch. So, what better way to spend a few days in Rome than to come back in the city that inspired it?

The Octo Finissimo Automatic is for me one of the most important watches of recent years. It's not the watch that launched the Octo Finissimo collection in 2014 (this privilege goes to the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon) but it is the simplest representative of it. It is ultimately the most strategic piece in the collection, given its more accessible price, the different versions that exist and the expected sales volumes. One thing is certain: the Octo Finissimo collection has become the spearhead of Bulgari's watchmaking activity. It embodies the ambition of the brand, which has developed several movements to expand the collection, six of which have broken world records for thinness. In fact, the Octo Finissimo collection is also a demonstration of technical capabilities that strengthens the brand's credibility.

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However, it would be very simplistic to consider the Octo Finissimo as just a watchmaking prowess. It is above all a stylistic success. To tell the truth, that's what I like the most about this collection. The very thin height of the movements is above all a response to this design challenge: technique has been placed at the service of aesthetics. And whatever the model, whatever the complications, every Octo Finissimo follows the same logic. Even the most complicated models, such as the latest Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton, look as slim and slender as a simple watch. But beware: it is not a discreet thinness to make the watch disappear under the shirt sleeve. Octo Finissimo watches have character and a strong presence on the wrist.

The perfect aesthetic integration of the bracelet:

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This presence is above all due to the shape of their cases, which are very geometric and much more complex than they seem to be. Too often thinness leads to simplification. This is not the case here. The mix of shapes, the insertion of the round bezel in the octagonal case, the work on the lugs, the profiled angles, the aesthetic integration of the control pieces such as the crown or pushers, everything contributes to this definition of personality. And how can we not mention the bracelet? I consider it to be one of the most successful integrated bracelets on the market. It aesthetically extends the case without any feeling of split and its width gives it a strong visual impact.

Funny encounters in Trastevere:

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The Octo Finissimo Automatic was unveiled in 2017. And it immediately made an impression thanks to its BVL 138 movement, which broke the record for the world's thinnest automatic caliber with a thickness of 2.23mm, the case having a thickness of 5.15mm. The 2017 model was made of titanium and remains the most emblematic version because it combines absolute thinness and lightness. Bulgari later presented sandblasted versions in rose gold and steel. Wishing to acquire an Octo Finissimo Automatic, I began to compare the different models. The most beautiful one for me is undoubtedly the Sandblasted Pink Gold one. But we are no longer in the same price range. There were still the models in titanium or Sandblasted Steel. Other materials were even added but I always remained in the perspective of acquiring a "light" Octo Finissimo Automatic and not with a dark material. The shapes, the design, the angular and complex side of the case are in my opinion better highlighted with light materials than with dark ones.

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There was also the skeleton dial version to consider. In the end, my choice was the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel, and it was almost like a no-brainer. I love the aesthetics of this watch. It is the most luminous, the sandblasted steel is magnificent and above all there is a perfect harmony between the dial, the case and the bracelet. The watch appears stylish, contemporary, original without being exuberant. The monochromatic atmosphere gives it moreover a lot of elegance. I took it with the steel bracelet (for me the metal bracelet is essential to go to the end of the concept) and I don't regret my choice at all. As for the choice of the full dial, it also seemed logical to me for reasons of readability and aesthetic integration. And the skeleton version does not exist in sandblasted steel.

The meticulous finishing and the architecture of the BVL 138 caliber make it attractive:

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But then, what is the link between the Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel and Rome? First of all there are objective reasons. Bulgari is a brand founded in Rome and even if its watchmaking decision center is not in Italy but in Switzerland, these roots cannot be forgotten. In addition, Bulgari's designer Fabrizio Buonamassa was born in Naples but spent his childhood in Rome. The Octo (and not only the Octo Finissimo) has above all a direct link to the Eternal City: the octagonal shape is inspired by the motif of the vault of the Basilica of Maxentius in the Roman Forum.

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And then there are all those subjective reasons that I mentioned earlier. The Octo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel is an undeniably stylish watch with character, yet elegant and refined. There is a kind of controlled originality that prevents it from falling into exuberance. Moreover the rigor of its construction (in some aspects, it can even appear austere because of its monochrome rendering) and the play with forms reminds me of the architectural approach of Ancient Rome. The last element which is for me fundamental and specific to this version is the light. The light color of the sandblasted steel becomes luminous under the intense Roman sun. The watch then becomes summery, or at least chic and casual, in harmony with the dolce vita .

The octagonal patterns of the vault of the Basilica of Maxentius:

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In any case, I had  a lot of pleasure to wander around Rome in the middle of August. Even if the watch is not ostentatious, its style is recognizable and it is an element to be taken into account with short sleeves. Its notoriety not being that of a Rolex or a Nautilus, I had no particular fear. Its waterproofness is 30m (the latest satin polished steel versions presented this year have a better waterproofness at 100m) so I was careful not to dip my hand in the Roman fountains without precaution. For the rest, I lived with it without constraint and enjoying it to the maximum. The watch lit up under the sun, its bracelet provided a good support, its light weight made it pleasant in this heat and its style corresponded perfectly with the Roman atmosphere.

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It is important to note the following details. First of all the diameter is 40mm but due to the shape of the case and the width of the bracelet, the perceived size is more important. It requires a wrist large enough so that it does not appear disproportionate. The advantage of this size is that it accentuates the slender shape of the case and makes it even thinner than it is. Then the dial is very readable and if it appears very sober, it takes advantage of the off-center second which gives it the necessary offset touch. I think the watch would have been too strict with a small seconds at 6 o'clock (which was not possible because of the location of the regulating organ).

A bird's eye view on Via Condotti where Bulgari's historical store is located:

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Finally, the BVL 138 movement worked reliably and precisely. Its winding efficiency is excellent for a micro-rotor caliber (the latter is made of platinum). Its performance is good with a power reserve of 60 hours (for a frequency of 3hz) which is rather surprising given its finesse. Its architecture is very pleasant to look at and the decoration remains in the image of the watch: everything is very neat without unnecessary effect. The cutting of the bridges is well done with a rigorous continuity of the Geneva dimensions. The balance is small but it is logical: the energy consumption must be reduced to the maximum to reach 60 hours of power reserve with such a constraint of finesse of movement. I avoided winding the watch manually as much as possible since I consider that the crown stem is generally the weak element of an extra-flat movement. In any case, I advise to handle the crown with delicacy when setting the time.

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It may be too early to consider the Octo Finissimo Automatic as an iconic watch. Customers will be the ones who will judge by how long it lasts. But as the owner of the sandblasted steel model, I feel that it has all the assets to become one. It combines a certain aesthetic success with a solid watchmaking content. It provides beautiful sensations even... under skies that are less clement than those of Rome. In any case, Bulgari has succeeded in defining the stylistic elements that make the Octo Finissimo recognizable at first glance while developing a technically ambitious family of movements. Its watchmaking credibility has been strengthened as a result. It's remarkable to have achieved such a result in such a short time. The challenge now for Bulgari will be to capitalize on these fundamentals by developing and renewing the collection without distorting it. It is also this durability and constancy that ultimately gives a beautiful watch the status of an icon.

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Finissimo Automatic Sandblasted Steel is available at a price of 13,800 euros. Note that the satin-finish steel versions (blue dial, black dial) are sold at a price of 12,100 euros.

The Roman sun illuminates the steel case:

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Fr.Xavier

Comments:
penang1974 December 6th, 2020-07:11
Thanks for sharing your thoughts  A very impressive review
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foversta December 6th, 2020-07:17
Thanks a lot for your nice words, I appreciate them! 
spudsunderground December 6th, 2020-07:33
Really excellent review. Having purchased mine this summer I echo your positive statements about the watch.  ... 
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foversta December 6th, 2020-07:47
This satin brushed version is beautiful too... Thanks a lot for your picture and comment!
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Weems@8 December 6th, 2020-08:01
Big choise Which Octo must i chose? So much choice, and much are perfect.
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Watch_This December 18th, 2020-11:56
I love that blue dial! Thin profile and skeleton back rounds out a very fine looking watch! Cheers Drew
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BigAppleBill December 6th, 2020-08:35
Bulgari makes a beautiful watch. Thank you for the pictures! I miss Rome! And I’m also reminded how much I miss visiting different cities.
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Uncle Chico December 6th, 2020-08:52
This hits all my criteria. Beautiful, iconic, not often seen but instantly recognizable No message body
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FabR December 6th, 2020-08:52
Thanks FX, I read with interest this entire beautiful and personal review...it's indeed a "new" line that Bulgari got so remarkably right, as you said both horologically and aesthetically! The only doubt I had until after half of your writeup is how you could have made it back to Rome right now...mystery solved when you said it was August! Looking forward to being back as well! ;-) These "entry-level" versions are also in my view the most s... 
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Mary Anny December 6th, 2020-10:46
Such a great review and... Thanks for the pictures of the city where I was born and that I miss so much!
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