Bulgari’s New Diagono Watches: Celestial Poetry and Precision Measurement

Epitomising a whole set of values, Moonphase and Calibro 303 showcase champlevé enamel dials, this line’s sophisticated signature feature

With their multiple references pointing back to antiquity and to the essence of design, the subtleties of traditional handcrafts, and ultramodern techniques, the two new Diagono watches by Bulgari epitomise a whole set of values that use talent to open the doors to a new way of telling time. Diagono Moonphase and Calibro 303 elevate the art of mechanical watchmaking through their distinguished stylistics, a powerful identifying signature.

Moonphase and Calibro 303 are contemporary versions of the Diagono line created in 1988, with its characteristic bezel engraved with the brand’s double logo. They embody all aspects of an elegant, completely timeless model. Though one partakes of the realm of celestial poetry, and the other of precision measuring instruments, these two very different new arrivals have one thing in common: their treatment of the dial.

The Moonphase and Calibro 303 dials are created in Bulgari’s own workshops using the very old champlevé technique. Known since ancient times, this decorative, high-added-value process consists of delicately hollowing out metal to create cavities that will be filled with lacquers selected based on the aesthetic or functional qualities desired. After a patient manufacturing process, this handcrafting technique makes it possible to combine elegant chromatic and visual effects of great delicacy.

Champlevé enamel is the signature of the iconic Diagono family, which draws its inspiration from ancient times, completely in keeping with Bulgari’s roots. Inspired by the ancient Greek agòn, which means “competition,” the model’s name evokes Myron’s Discobolus, which inspired its aesthetic. The Diagono line is the expression of a dynamic, contemporary style that bears witness to the timeless modernity of its remote origins.

Diagono Moonphase: the poetry of celestial events

Diagono Moonphase gives the subtle art of the complication watch one of its most poetic interpretations through its expression of celestial and calendar events. This brilliant demonstration of top-class Swiss watchmaking genius boasts a completely original, patented display of the lunar cycles. Instead of settling for a traditional rotating disk to display the moon phases, Bulgari has opted to reinterpret them by developing a boldly innovative mechanism designed and developed entirely in-house.

Lunar Poetry

The mechanical self-winding calibre indicates the moon phases by a disc that moves back and forth to show the phases at five positions of an arc. The daily advance of the lunar phases is marked by a hand that jumps once a day through a semi-circular arc. It shows the moon’s waxing (left to right) and waning (right to left) day by day, through a complete cycle. The lunar cycle is calculated for the northern hemisphere, that is, lasting 29.5 days. Above the moon phase indicator, which is placed at 6 o’clock, is an unobtrusive arrow in a window. When the arrow points to the left, it indicates a waning moon; to the right, a waxing moon. The system requires adjustment every 32 months.

Date and Days of the Week

As a perfect complement to the moon-phase function, the house BVL 347 calibre in the Diagono Moonphase has day and date displays on a 150-degree retrograde display placed between 8 and 10 o’clock for the days of the week and between 2 and 4 o’clock for the date. Calendar display adjustments are made using three correctors flush with the case middle. The calibre has a total of 347 parts, all of which are finished and assembled entirely by hand, as is the pierced winding rotor. The rotor has six different components and eight different types of finishes, in keeping with Bulgari’s customary high standards.

The precious movement is visible through the sapphire crystal, which reveals the winding rotor encased in a massive 18-carat rose-gold case that is 42 mm in diameter and has satin-finished case band parts topped off by a satin-finished bezel with polished bevels. It is protected by a delicate, supremely elegant champlevé dial done in alternating ivory white and jet black. Diagono Moonphase is being issued as a 199-piece limited edition.

Diagono Calibro 303: an instrument dedicated to extreme precision

For its part, the Calibro 303 chronograph has a decidedly sporty and instrumental look. Its balanced proportions assert a high level of technical excellence. Symbolic of a contemporary lifestyle, the Diagono Calibro 303 chronograph stands out as the emblem of an aesthetic quest pushed to extreme functional limits.

Diagono Calibro 303 runs on a mechanical self-winding house movement assembled and finished entirely by hand, the BVL 303 calibre, which took a total of 3,520 hours of work to develop. It has 303 parts. Its integrated construction with column wheel and vertical coupling-clutch chronograph are the connoisseur’s ultimate dream. This sophisticated design prevents the chronograph seconds hand from jumping when it starts, stops, and resets, and so allows very accurate and smooth transitions between the chronograph functions, facilitated by knurled pushpieces that provide an optimal grip. The mechanism easily measures short time intervals on three counters graduated for 12 hours, 30 minutes, and 60 seconds. Added to all this is a date window at 6 o’clock. The information is displayed on the champlevé dial in elegant, sophisticated alternating shades of blue and white, in a balanced and harmonious arrangement.

The sophisticated mechanics can be seen through the caseback’s sapphire crystal, revealing the finishes: Côtes de Genève, circular graining, and a sunburst satin finish. The movement is protected by a 75-part case of satin-finished steel with polished bevels. The Brand name is engraved around the bezel. The powerfully styled case middle has a wraparound design that protects the winding crown, and flows into a blue alligator leather strap. Diagono Calibro 303 is being issued as a limited edition of 500 pieces.

Diagono Moonphase and Calibro 303 are watches for today that combine Swiss watchmaking expertise with the Italian formal and aesthetic “touch” so characteristic of Bulgari.

Diagono Moonphase Specifications

Movement :  Manufacture mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 347, comprising 347 parts, moon-phase indications driven by an exclusive mechanism (patent pending), retrograde display of the day of the week and of the date on a 150° arc of a circle.

Côtes de Genève and circular-graining decoration.

Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)

Power reserve: 44 hours

46 jewels

Diameter: 25.60 mm

Thickness: 5.83 mm

Functions :  Hours, minutes, seconds; lunar cycles, retrograde day of the week and day display

Case :  18K pink gold, 42 mm in diameter, transparent back with sapphire crystal.

Dial :  In-house crafted black & white champlevé dial, protected by a scratchproof and glareproofed sapphire crystal, hand-applied hour-markers

Water Resistance :  50 metres

Strap :  Black alligator leather strap fitted with a double-blade folding clasp in 18K pink gold.

Diagono Calibro 303 Specifications

Movement :  Manufacture mechanical self-winding movement, Calibre BVL 303, with date display, integrated column-wheel chronograph with vertical coupling-clutch.

Côtes de Genève, circular-graining and sunburst satin-finish decoration.

Frequency: 21,600 vph (3 Hz)

Power reserve: 40 hours

38 jewels

Diameter: 26.20 mm

Thickness: 5.50 mm

Functions :  Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, date at 6 o’clock; minutes, seconds and hours counters at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock respectively.

Case :  Steel case, 42 in diameter and 11.90 mm thick, transparent back with sapphire crystal. 

DIAL       In-house crafted blue & white champlevé dial, protected by a scratchproof and glareproofed sapphire crystal, hand-applied hour-markers

Hand-applied facetted hour-markers on the dial and inner bezel ring, facetted hands with SuperLumiNova® treatment.

Water Resistance :  100 metres

Strap :  Alligator leather strap fitted with a double-blade folding clasp and safety fastening.