Independents
Nitediver's 'Antoine Martin Part 3: The Watches' offers a detailed look at the independent brand's early perpetual calendar and tourbillon models. This post is particularly valuable for understanding the brand's foundational design philosophy, especially its complex, modular case architecture. It provides a historical snapshot of Antoine Martin's initial offerings and strategic market entry.
Antoine Martin Part 3: The Watches
Both the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon use a case that was designed and is manufactured exclusively for AM. It is a complex case with 84 individual parts and a modular architecture, which will allow for material mixes in the future. (e.g. gold and titanium or similar)
Complex case with a modular architecture
Quantième Perpétuel au grand balancier – (perpetual calendar)
Rose gold version
Case back focusing your eyes on the large balance wheel. Note the power reserve
Functions
· Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap year
· Large date and day/night indicator
· Power reserve display on the back of the movement
· 24-hour display (day/night indicator)
Case and dial
Case available in steel black DLC coated (weight 240 gr) white gold or rose gold (weight 180 gr)
Case dimension: Diameter, 46mm Height. 16,4mm
Anti reflective coated sapphire crystals (scratch resistant!)
Water resistance 50m
Dial version: black with red or grey Arabic numerals, silver or black with roman numerals
Movement AM 39.001
- 39.5 mm diameter
- 8.00 mm height
- 144 hours power reserve (6 days)
- 18,000 vph
- 328 components
- 60 jewels
Strap and buckle
Depending on the case material, the straps come as black rubber or alligator, all with deployant buckle in the same material as the case (steel, WG, RG)
White gold versions
Steel DLC coated
Wristshot of the WG version
Tourbillon Quantième Perpétuel (Perpetual Calendar Tourbillon)
The RG version
Solid gold case back with small window for the power reserve
Functions
· Flying Minute Tourbillon
· Regulator dial – separate dials for hour and minute track
· Perpetual calendar with day, date, month and leap year
· Retrograde date indication
· Power reserve display on the back of the movement
Case and dial
Case available in white gold or rose gold
Case dimension: Diameter, 46mm Height. 16,4mm
Anti reflective coated sapphire crystals (scratch resistant!)
Water resistance 50m
Dial versions: silver dial for the rose gold case and a black dial for the white gold case.
Movement AM 39.002
- 39.5 mm diameter
- 8.00 mm height
- 144 hours power reserve (6 days)
- 18,000 vph
- 318 components
- 49 jewels
Strap and buckle
Brown alligator for the RG version and black alligator for the WG version
WG version
The RG version on my wrist – an impressive watch at any rate
My personal favorite - WG
Personal comments
I must admit that I was not particularly attracted by the design of the AM watches when I first saw them on photos. One of the reasons was that the watches look massive and I am not a big fan of very large watches and I feel most comfortable with watches in the range of 38 – 42 mm.
However, wearing them in metal is a totally different story. Surprisingly, the watches are feeling less heavy than expected, even a lot of steel or gold goes into the case. Both the perpetual and the tourbillon feel comfortable on my small wrist. This speaks for the quality of the design and materials chosen for the case and the straps.
Especially the black dial, WG tourbillon grew on me. The excellent anti reflective coating of the crystal contributes to the three dimensional effect of the dial. it was literally hard to take the AM Tourbillon off my wrist again! Be careful….it is mesmerizing.
I am also very fond of the technical and modern, yet very aesthetical movement design and decoration. The large balance wheel - held in position by three "arms" instead of one bridge - is very much in the center of the movement architecture.
New Developments and Conclusion
Antoine Martin has made a deliberate choice to enter the market with two watches at the top end of the market to demonstrate its technical competence– with the perpetual calendar and the tourbillon perpetual calendar. However Martin Braun and Bruno Jufer revealed that they are working on a project with the goal to lower the "entry point" to the world of AM.
Despite being small, it is obvious that there is a lot of experience and competence in the company, especially with regard to movement design and innovations. New projects are in the pipeline and the team s already working on an automatic movement.
Antoine Martin has chosen a very courageous way of to build up a company based on an entirely new movement. Not quite the easy way to start your brand, but one that allowed realizing a movement without compromises.
I am certain that I am only one of many PuristS who would like to see the courage rewarded and AM heading towards a prosperous future!
Sincere thanks to Martin Braun and Bruno Jufer for the insights into Antoine Martin and the Cal. AM 39.
Best,
Stefan
.. with those models. I am not a fan of large watches, either. My comfortable range is up to 40 (seriously), but there are of course some exceptions. I hope to see them with my own eyes one day...... Thank you again for your detailed report! Ken
I would like to see one of these in the flesh and to try one on :) Very intrigued to see more.
However, i get a bit sick with every independent thinking that a tourbillon is essential for their success. All the technology would have been just as good without a tourbillon and it wouldnt have affected the accuracy one bit. It seems that the order of the day is always precious metal, tourbillon, highest possible price tag. Why not steel, open balance, reasonable price tag. It may =more sales. Thanks again for all your efforts in putting this report together, i really like the technology that
you are right, you have to see them in metal. AM is still in an early stalge of building up their presence in retail but i understand that they have some retailers in Europe, Middle East and Asia now. If i remember correclty, they are also spaeking to somebody in Japan, but you would have to inquire directly with Bruno Jufer. They are attanding the "Jeff Kingston Watchtime Inside Basel Geneva" this year, a roadshow that will be touring across the US. I will post a respective information under in
seeing is believing....... it's only a short hop over the channel to the continent from the UK....:-) I dont know whether they have a retail presence in the UK yet, you would have to ask Bruno Jufer. Best, Stefan On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 9:54 AM,
I share your your feelings...not about getting sick on the sight of the tourbillon - it is really nice - but on the sentiment that a version with the same great technology, but less complications at a more accessible price point would be of interest to many PuristS. BTW, there is a steel version (black DLC coated) of the perpetual calendar available. Best, Stefan On Thu, Sep 6, 2012 at 4:47 PM,
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