Edwardwchang shares his experience with the Archimede 39H, a modern flieger watch that offers a compelling alternative to more expensive historical replicas. His post delves into the philosophy of watch wearing as an extension of personal style and critiques the luxury watch industry's approach to historical reissues.
I first discovered Archimede on a popular watch blog. They were reviewing a budget option, the same watch as above in bronze metal. I had been looking for a NOS IWC Mark XVI or looking into purchasing an IWC "son" pilot watch, which is based on the mark XVI but must be purchased as a set with the "father" Big Pilot.
My philosophy on watch wearing is that they are part of an overall style or look that I am trying to achieve. I've posted some "looks" below for reference. I tend to buy and wear watches that will enhance the looks below. My daily wearer was a PAM 390, so try to imagine the photos below with the guy wearing a PAM 390, and thats the overall look I'm trying to achieve.
style inspiration
style inspiration
style inspiration
style inspiration
I love it when watch companies make replicas of historical references. Who here doesnt wish that rolex would remake a big crown sub? or a military sub? or a paul newman daytona? The Big Name watch companies dont do this, with the exception of Panerai and their PAM372. This is something I dont understand. Why dont watch companies just make us what we want to buy?
Instead they design new watches that look ridiculous (hello, GP seahawk) or use historical watches for "inspiration" and make frankenstein watches like the IWC Mark XVI's unholy marriage or british and german dial design.
So leave it to no name watch companies like Archimede and Stowa to make a modern replica of one of history's coolest watches.
the real deal
Male style pretty much stops and ends with military style. trench coats, field jackets, cargo pants, kahki pants, field shirts, the list goes on and on. But even within military designed stuff, pilots got the coolest stuff. Aviator sunglasses and pilots watches. And the archimede 39H flieger is a near replica (slimmed down from 55mm to a wearable size) of the ultimate pilots watch.
The dial and hands are an exact copy of the historical IWC above. The case is slimmed down to a 39mm diameter and is probably the most classical watch case shape, used in everything from the Patek 5196 series to the much lauded 2014 tudor ranger. Archimede's execution of this case design is great, but it lacks the bevels of IWCs execution of the same case design in the Mark series.
same exact case design
I paid extra for a domed crystal, but the archimede 39H was still well under a thousand dollars. I would love the archimede 39H at five times its price as it has more style and authenticity than the IWC Mark XVI I was previously chasing. The archimede 39H is a go anywhere do anything watch and a perfect "one watch" for wearing with business suits or t shirt and cargo pants and its my new daily wearer.
About the Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Ref. PAM372
The Panerai PAM372 is a Luminor 1950 model that draws inspiration from historical Panerai designs, particularly those from the 1950s. It is distinguished by its clean, two-hand dial layout and the absence of a small seconds sub-dial, which emphasizes its vintage aesthetic. This reference was part of a series that aimed to reintroduce classic Panerai elements to a contemporary audience, focusing on simplicity and historical accuracy in its presentation. It represents a direct link to the brand's heritage, offering a less complicated display than many of its counterparts.
The watch features a 47mm polished steel case, characteristic of early Panerai models, fitted with a 3mm thick Plexiglass crystal. It houses the in-house developed manual-wind Calibre P.3000, which provides a substantial power reserve of three days. The movement is visible through a sapphire crystal case back, allowing for appreciation of its construction. The large crown guard, a signature Luminor feature, ensures water resistance and protects the winding crown.
For collectors, the PAM372 is notable for its faithful recreation of historical design cues, including the "sandwich" dial construction and the use of Plexiglass, which contributes to its vintage appeal. Its limited production run and adherence to traditional Panerai proportions make it a sought-after reference among enthusiasts who value the brand's origins. The watch appeals to those seeking a direct connection to Panerai's past without modern embellishments.
Specifications
- Caliber
- Calibre P.3000
- Case
- Polished Steel
- Diameter
- 47mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Plexiglass
About the Panerai Luminor Boutique Edition Ref. PAM390
The Panerai Luminor Base PAM390 represents a core offering within the Luminor series, distinguished by its brown dial and manual-wind movement. Produced from 2011 to 2016, this reference positions itself as a time-only variant within the broader Luminor collection.
The 44mm steel case houses the manual-wind P5000 caliber, delivering an exceptional 192-hour power reserve. The watch features a sapphire crystal and fixed bezel configuration, with 100-meter water resistance. The brown dial pairs with a leather strap, creating a cohesive aesthetic presentation.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking a straightforward Luminor expression without complications, emphasizing the fundamental time-telling function. The substantial power reserve and manual-wind movement cater to enthusiasts who appreciate traditional watchmaking approaches. The five-year production window and brown dial treatment offer collectors a specific variant within the Luminor Base lineup.
Specifications
- Case
- Polished Steel
- Diameter
- 44mm
- Water Resist.
- 300m
- Crystal
- 3.5mm Sapphire
About the Panerai Ref. Luminor1950
The Luminor 1950 3 Days PAM00372 is a notable reference that captures the essence of Panerai's historical designs, particularly those from the mid-20th century. It is distinguished by its clean dial, lack of a date complication, and the use of a Plexiglas crystal, which is a nod to vintage Panerai watches. This model was introduced as a special edition, appealing to collectors who appreciate the brand's heritage aesthetic without modern embellishments. Its design emphasizes legibility and the robust character associated with the Luminor case.
The watch features a substantial 47mm case crafted from polished stainless steel, characteristic of the Luminor 1950 series. It houses the in-house P.3000 manual-winding mechanical movement, which provides a power reserve of three days, or 72 hours. The crystal is made of Plexiglas, contributing to its vintage appeal and offering a different visual quality compared to sapphire. The solid case back further reinforces its historical design inspiration.
This reference holds particular appeal for collectors seeking a direct link to Panerai's past. Its large case size and minimalist dial with a sandwich construction are defining features that resonate with enthusiasts of the brand's original tool watch ethos. The PAM00372 is considered a significant piece for those who value historical accuracy and the distinctive design language that defines Panerai's most recognizable models.
Specifications
- Caliber
- P.3000
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 47mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Plexiglas