Reference Guide
Jonathantompson's inquiry into the dial variations of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402BA highlights a common challenge for collectors: distinguishing original configurations from aftermarket changes or natural patinas. His detailed observations and comparative images underscore the importance of historical accuracy in a market often influenced by subtle nuances. This article delves into the community's insights to clarify the authentic dial offerings for this iconic yellow gold reference.
Hi Royal Oak Friends!
I have a question about which dials were made for the yellow gold 5402BA. From AP Chronicles and other websites it's clear the 5402ST was only available in Bleu Nuit, the 5402SA in slate grey, but nowhere actually specifies which specific dials were available for the 5402BA? Was it all of them? Just the slate grey and gilded "brown no. 21" (i.e. gold)?
One reason it's not clear to amateurs like myself is there are lot of 5402BA dial color variants available on the market and it's hard to tell if these were different dials, different shades of patina on those dials, different lighting conditions for the online pictures or a combination of all three.
For instance this watch is a very light slate grey:
This watch is a slightly darker grey:
While this watch is a very dark grey:
Perhaps this is a classic parts dial which is why it is so dark?
I'd love to hear from the experts!
Thanks,
Jonathan
The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.
For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.
Iām personally unable to answer your questions, but hopefully other members can help you. All I can say about the photos you show is that the first two seem to show the exact same dial in different lighting conditions. The third photo shows a different dial with AP at six instead of 12. Best, Emmanuel
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