Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 with Burgundy Fumé Dial: A Collector's Re-evaluation

jlux · 2020-07-08T09:16:16Z

Explore the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 with a burgundy fumé dial. Jlux offers a hands-on review, detailing its controversial design, complex case, and modern movement. Discover if the new dials redeem this unique timepiece.

jlux

WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum

33 replies6510 views12 photos

Jlux's detailed post offers a timely re-evaluation of the Audemars Piguet Code 11:59, focusing on the impact of its new fumé dials. This article explores how these vibrant dial options address initial criticisms and enhance the watch's distinctive design elements, from its complex case to its modern movement. Jlux's personal acquisition and candid photography provide an invaluable, hands-on perspective for collectors considering this controversial yet innovative timepiece.

The Code 11:59 was,without a doubt,the most controversial watch from 2019.

We all know what happened and I am not going back to the story : everyone involved made mistakes, the brand,the media and the internet community.

The regretful part were hate messages and a product bashing from people that actually had not seen nor handled the watch.

A remaining criticism were the (too) conservative dial options as opposed to the modern case design.

Something that AP has now corrected with a series of colourful "fumé" type dials that add drama and life to the design.

I discovered those first a week ago in a post from our dear member "Mohannad",fell in love with the "burgundy" dial,called the AP boutique,made a reservation and a week later the watch was with me.

And what a beautiful watch it is!

The fumé dials (no,Moser has no exclusivity rights ....) are a perfect fit for the personality of the watch.

The radial brushing effect is in reality less pronounced as what the AP computer generated pictures might suggest.It adds however a very attractive silky shimmer to the dial.

The presence and positioning of the date is due to commercial reasons. I can certainly live with it but do understand also that this could be a no-go for others.

High resolution pictures do enhance the visual impact of a date window. In reality however,especially with the fumé effect, the date remains quite discreet.

The double curved sapphire is a real nice design element.

THE highlight of the watch is for sure the case,executed to the high standards that we know from AP.

Octagonal reminiscense to the Royal Oak ...

...and these very specific lugs.

Finally a modern and correctly sized movement from AP.

I am not expert enough to judge on what parts are machine or hand finished.

The result is however very attractive and "clean".

This is not your typical concensus watch and it probably was never intended as such from AP.

It is however a very high quality watch with a refreshing and contemporary design language,something that none of the "usual" competition has.

I strongly recommend to everyone to go and see the watch ....and then make the final judgement.

A final note : I expected this watch to photograph with a lot of difficulties; in fact it was not and I do not understand why so many so really bad pictures of this watch were published (even by serious internet mags)...

Thanks for looking,

Gerard

Key Points from the Discussion

The Code 11:59's case, while technically impressive and beautifully executed, presents a design challenge with its combination of round bezel and octagonal center, leading to an 'indecisive' character that constantly shifts depending on the viewing angle.
While the new fumé dials are an improvement, they don't fundamentally change the perception of the Code 11:59 for some, who believe AP took too long to introduce it and should focus more on horological innovation rather than marketing.
The new colorful dials, particularly the burgundy fumé, are a significant step in the right direction for the Code 11:59, with the case being a standout feature that can sway opinions towards appreciation.
The date window, while commercially driven, is discreet in reality due to the fumé effect, making it less obtrusive than high-resolution images might suggest.
The Code 11:59's case is exceptionally complex and perfectly executed, featuring extensive hand polishing that places it in a league of its own.
The introduction of new dial colors has drastically changed the watch's appearance, generating excitement for future two-tone variations.

The Discussion

K-

K-Lo

Jul 8, 2020

So would you say the dial is the best executed component of this piece?

jlux

Jul 8, 2020

The case however is in a league of its own. Extremely complex and perfectly executed including quite a lot of hand polishing.

MTR

Jul 8, 2020

Thanks for your interesting post and write-up. I'm not 100% convinced yet, but I think AP is going in the right direction regarding the 11:59. And your watch is really beautiful. Especially the case!! You definitely "turned" me in the „pro-direction“. I am one of those who would prefer the dial without a date or at least with a different positioning of the date. I think that Moser (you mentioned the brand in your post) does an even better job when it comes to the design of beautiful dials. IMHO

GWIS

Jul 8, 2020

Enjoy the watch. Jon

jlux

Jul 8, 2020

Most likely we will not see a steel version very soon.

jlux

Jul 8, 2020

Btw, I am also a great fan of Endeavour Concept watch is high on my list.

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Audemars Piguet forum with 33 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →

Audemars Piguet Code 11:59 with Burgundy Fumé Dial: A Collector's Re-evaluation

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

More from this Forum