Audemars Piguet Concept Watch Collection
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Audemars Piguet Concept Watch Collection

By Hackworth · Mar 19, 2021 · 19 replies
Hackworth
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
19 replies6523 views3 photos
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Hackworth, a prominent collector from Shanghai, makes a grand entrance into the WatchProSite community by sharing his recent acquisition of three Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept watches. His detailed post offers a unique perspective on these avant-garde timepieces, highlighting their distinct characteristics and horological significance. This article delves into Hackworth's insights and the community's reactions, providing valuable context for both seasoned collectors and new enthusiasts.

Hello all, I am new here - glad to be a part of the WPS community.

I am from Shanghai where there's a sizable watch collecting community, both of mainstream high-end brands (PP,AP,RM,Rolex, VC) as well as more niche tastes (Roger Dubuis, Lange, Parmigiani, etc). Being a former RM and AP collector myself (having offloaded a few lately), have been kind of feeling around for something new that fits the large 3D wrist-presence sort of taste, and it's been difficult so far.

Last week, I found myself at a local watch auction and encountered three AP Concepts, which frankly haven't really been able to encounter in the boutique nor second-hand watch dealers that often. I liked them so much that ultimately made a hard decision to pull the trigger on all 3. Thought would share my appreciation for the beauty and craft of these 3 peices here:



1. AP Royal Oak Concept Tourbillon GMT 2014




This watch is less-popular than its white ceramic version counterpart, but in my opinion feels more refined, less in-your-face, and even a bit low-key. The black brushed ceramic bezel combined with the semi-openworked black dial really shines. The sandblasted titanium case gives the entire watch a nice texture contrast.


2. AP Royal Oak Concept Schumacher Laptimer


This probably needs no introduction and is a beast of a watch - it will feel substantially bigger than the standard Royal Oak Concept due to the horizontal extensions on both sides, not to mention noticeably thicker. The laptimer will most likely not be suitable for small wrists, although given its size and the movement complications (which is amazing by the way) is not heavy at all. Its openworked dial is unlike any other AP, as it features skeleton-like characteristics but is sporty at the same time. The curvature on the sapphire crystal adds an extra flavor to this watch - at certain angles it almost has a magifying effect, with a blue tint of anti-reflective coating when a light is shined on top (different from other APs). The chronograph pushers and crown being rose gold add another level of flavor to this watch. And last but not least - the laptimer + flyback chrono functionality adds extra fun to this watch, not to mention a remarkable technical feat by AP and a joy to look at through caseback crystal.


3. AP Royal Oak Concept Carbon Tourbillon


This peice probably needs no introduction to most either, being one of the earliest AP concepts to come into production - and in my opinion, the biggest heavy-hitter/grail watch of these three. The avant-garde design is way ahead of its time, and the two vertical metallic bridges are the most noticeable design feature. The watch is EXTREMELY comfortable to wear, and is the lightest of the three. I have mine on a white strap as the original black leather strap wasn't available with the purchase (went to the boutique and ordered it, takes 1 month to ship). The red power reserve bar on top of the dial is a great feature, and lets you know when the 10-day power reserve will be depleted. Winding the watch is a treat, and is some of the smoothest winding mechanisms I've handled. The watch  The caseback is very interesting (though not pictured here), it has the mechanical grooves and back of the tourbillon up against a green plate, which looks quite unconventional and like a circuit board. 

Hope everyone enjoyed the pics and the brief reviews, feel free to ask any questions!

Cheers,
Hackworth

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Ref. 15305

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 15305 is a notable variant within the Royal Oak line, distinguished by its openworked dial and movement, offering a direct view into the intricate mechanics. This reference represents a more elaborate and technically complex interpretation of the standard Royal Oak, appealing to collectors who appreciate haute horlogerie and the art of skeletonization. It was produced in limited quantities, making it a less common sight compared to its solid-dial counterparts. The openworked design allows for an appreciation of the finishing and architecture of the movement, a hallmark of Audemars Piguet's craftsmanship.

The watch features a 39 mm case crafted from 18k yellow gold, maintaining the classic Royal Oak proportions. It houses the self-winding Caliber 3120, which is meticulously openworked and finished to expose its components. The movement provides a power reserve of 60 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch is water-resistant to 50 meters, suitable for everyday wear. The fixed octagonal bezel, a signature element of the Royal Oak, is also in 18k yellow gold.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking a Royal Oak with an enhanced level of mechanical artistry and exclusivity. Its openworked nature sets it apart from more common Royal Oak models, positioning it as a piece that highlights Audemars Piguet's technical prowess in movement decoration and design. The 18k yellow gold construction further emphasizes its premium status. While not a double-signed piece as mentioned in the collector's post, the 15305 stands on its own as a significant openworked Royal Oak.

Specifications

Caliber
3120
Case
18k Yellow Gold
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
MI
MichaelC
Mar 19, 2021

You have really made a splash with these 3 beauties! Huge congrats. I have never tried on a Laptimer, it is highly intriguing to me.

ED
edo.k
Mar 19, 2021

Laptimer is still best designed Concept IMHO...

HA
Hackworth
Mar 19, 2021

The laptimer is definitely not for everyone, of those that I know who've tried it on the size and thickness is a common complaint

HA
Hackworth
Mar 19, 2021

And the only one that's not a tourbillon

HO
HorologyMiami
Mar 19, 2021

Congratulations on three of the best concepts out there. The carbon is a particular favorite of mine. As a fellow new concept owner I can really say that they do command the same wrist presence that RM does while at the same time feel a little bit more undercover than the RM’s as the current trends in pop culture have made them easily recognizable.

HA
Hackworth
Mar 19, 2021

Undercover is good in many ways ... but still will be easily spotted for those who know anything about APs, and definitely will spark a couple interesting conversations. Indeed, the carbon is already close to 20 years old, but IMHO still the most stunning one

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