quattro, a distinguished member of the WatchProSite community, presents an in-depth exploration of Audemars Piguet's Dual Time complication. This article delves into the evolution of a specific dial layout across four iconic AP collections, offering a visual and technical comparison that highlights subtle design nuances. quattro's meticulous research and curated imagery provide an invaluable resource for collectors seeking to understand the historical context and aesthetic variations of this significant complication.
This layout of the dual time complication (with second time zone at 6 o'clock, date at 2 and power reserve at 10) has been used in four collections: Jules Audemars, Millenary, Royal Oak & Royal Oak Offshore.
A day/night indicator was later added between 6 and 7 o'clock: I like it less and have just added two photos at the end for comparison.
Have a great week-end.
1/ JULES AUDEMARS (ref. 25685 with 36mm case & caliber 2129 or 2229)
Ref. 25685BA (yellow gold)

credit: timeless vintage watches (& Amsterdam vintage watches for the case profile)
Ref. 25685PT with blue dial (platinum)

credit: the keystone
Ref. 25685PT with white dial (platinum)

credit: the keystone
Ref. 25685BC.00.A002XX.06 with brown or "Havana" dial (white gold)

NB: on Bulang & Sons, from which these photos come, this watch is presented as Platinum, which is in contradiction with the extract, and the dial is said to have been "originally blue but has now changed colour to stunning shades of orange and purple"
Ref. 25685BC with black dial & diamond indexes (white gold)

credit: Amsterdam vintage watches
2/ MILLENARY (ref.
25778 with 41x39mm case & cal. 2229)
Ref. 25778OR (rose gold)

credit: dreamwatch.de
Ref. 25778BC.OO.D001CR.01 (white gold)

credit: Zeitauktion
2/ ROYAL OAK ref. 25730 (36mm case & caliber 2229)
Ref. 25730ST with white dial (steel)

credit: hairspring
Ref. 25730ST with "Yves Klein" blue dial (steel)

credit: tokant
Ref. 25730ST with tropical blue dial (steel)

credit: montro

credit: vintage uhren
Ref. 25730SA (yellow gold & steel)

credit: Amsterdam vintage watches
3/ ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE (ref.
25970 with 38mm case & caliber 2229)
Ref. 25970ST.OO.1010ST.01, stainless steel, ‘Hong Kong’ limited edition of 100 pieces (1997) 
credit: quill & pad courtesy of AP Chronicles
Ref. 25970ST with leather strap (steel)

credit: every watch
Ref. 25970OR with black dial & diamond indexes (rose gold)

credit: collector square
Ref. 25970BA/OO/1010BA/01 limited to 20 pieces (yellow gold)

credit: chronext
4/ DIAL WITH DAY/NIGHT INDICATOR
Ref. 26120OR (rose gold, 39mm case & caliber 2329)

credit: first class timepieces
Ref. 26380OR.OO.D088CR.01 (rose gold, 41mm case & cal. 2329)

credit: watchfinder
About the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Ref. 25685
The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars reference 25685 is notable for its dual time complication layout, which positions the second time zone at 6 o'clock, the date at 2 o'clock, and the power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock. This specific arrangement of subdials was utilized across several Audemars Piguet collections, including the Millenary, Royal Oak, and Royal Oak Offshore, making the 25685 a foundational example of this particular complication display. Later iterations of this complication would introduce a day/night indicator, distinguishing the earlier 25685 by its cleaner, original dial configuration.
This reference features a 36mm case, with the 25685BA variant specifically crafted in yellow gold. It is powered by either the Audemars Piguet caliber 2129 or 2229, both self-winding movements. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clear visibility of the dial and protecting the intricate mechanics. The design emphasizes legibility and a balanced aesthetic, characteristic of Audemars Piguet's approach to complex timepieces.
For collectors, the reference 25685 represents an early and pure execution of Audemars Piguet's dual time complication before the addition of further indicators. Its presence across multiple collections highlights the versatility and enduring appeal of this specific dial architecture. The availability of variants such as the yellow gold 25685BA offers collectors choices in precious metals, appealing to those who appreciate the brand's traditional watchmaking and the historical development of its complications.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 2129 or 2229
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph Ref. 25730
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph reference 25730 represents the brand's 42mm chronograph offering within the Offshore collection. This stainless steel model was produced from 2000 to 2008, positioning it as a substantial sports chronograph in the AP lineup.
The 42mm stainless steel case houses the automatic caliber 2226/2840 movement, providing 50 hours of power reserve. The watch features a black dial beneath sapphire crystal, with a fixed octagonal bezel maintaining the Royal Oak design language. Water resistance extends to 100 meters, and the watch is fitted with a rubber strap.
Reference 25730 appeals to collectors seeking a robust chronograph from Audemars Piguet's modern era. The eight-year production run and stainless steel construction make this reference accessible within the Offshore chronograph range, while the 42mm case size caters to contemporary sizing preferences for sports watches.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 2226/2840
- Case
- Stainless steel
- Diameter
- 42 mm
- Dial
- Black
- Water Resist.
- 100m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Ref. 25685BA
The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Dual Time reference 25685BA is a notable example of the brand's approach to sophisticated complications in a classic round case. This specific layout of the dual time complication, featuring a second time zone at 6 o'clock, date at 2 o'clock, and power reserve at 10 o'clock, was utilized across several Audemars Piguet collections, including the Millenary and Royal Oak, underscoring its functional and aesthetic appeal. This reference predates the addition of a day/night indicator, presenting a cleaner dial configuration.
This particular reference, 25685BA, is presented in a 36mm yellow gold case. It is powered by the self-winding Caliber 2229, a movement known for its integration of the dual time functionality. The watch features a sapphire crystal, providing clear visibility of the dial and protection. The movement offers a power reserve suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the 25685BA represents an earlier iteration of Audemars Piguet's dual time offerings, valued for its balanced dial and traditional case proportions. Its shared complication layout with other collections highlights a period of design consistency for this specific function. The yellow gold case material positions it as a dress watch within the Jules Audemars line, appealing to those who appreciate classical horology with practical complications.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 2229
- Case
- Yellow Gold
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Dial
- White
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Ref. 25685PT
The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars reference 25685PT is a notable example of the brand's dual time complication, distinguished by its specific dial layout. This configuration features a second time zone display at 6 o'clock, a date indicator at 2 o'clock, and a power reserve display at 10 o'clock. This particular arrangement was utilized across several Audemars Piguet collections, including the Millenary and Royal Oak lines, before the later introduction of a day/night indicator. The Jules Audemars collection typically represents the brand's more classic and understated designs.
This reference features a 36mm case crafted from platinum, a material that underscores its refined character. It is powered by an automatic movement, specifically caliber 2129 or 2229, which is known for its robust and reliable performance in managing the multiple complications. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clear visibility of the dial and protecting the intricate mechanics within.
For collectors, the 25685PT is appealing for its pure execution of the dual time complication without the later addition of a day/night indicator, which some prefer for its cleaner aesthetic. Its platinum case material also positions it as a more exclusive variant within the Jules Audemars range. This reference represents a period in Audemars Piguet's history where complex functionalities were integrated into traditionally styled cases.
Specifications
- Caliber
- 2129/2229
- Case
- Platinum
- Diameter
- 36mm
- Crystal
- Sapphire