Audemars Piguet Dual Time Reference Guide
Reference Guide

Audemars Piguet Dual Time Reference Guide

By quattro · Dec 7, 2024 · 36 replies
quattro
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
36 replies6959 views26 photos
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quattro, a distinguished member of the WatchProSite community, presents an in-depth exploration of Audemars Piguet's Dual Time complication. This article delves into the evolution of a specific dial layout across four iconic AP collections, offering a visual and technical comparison that highlights subtle design nuances. quattro's meticulous research and curated imagery provide an invaluable resource for collectors seeking to understand the historical context and aesthetic variations of this significant complication.

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This layout of the dual time complication (with second time zone at 6 o'clock, date at 2 and power reserve at 10) has been used in four collections: Jules Audemars, Millenary, Royal Oak & Royal Oak Offshore.

A day/night indicator was later added between 6 and 7 o'clock: I like it less and have just added two photos at the end for comparison.

Have a great week-end.


1/ JULES AUDEMARS (ref. 25685 with 36mm case & caliber 2129 or 2229)

Ref. 25685BA (yellow gold)







credit: timeless vintage watches (& Amsterdam vintage watches for the case profile)


Ref. 25685PT with blue dial (platinum)



credit: the keystone 
 

Ref. 25685PT with white dial (platinum)



credit: the keystone 


Ref. 25685BC.00.A002XX.06  with brown or "Havana" dial  (white gold)





NB: on Bulang & Sons, from which these photos come, this watch is presented as Platinum, which is in contradiction with the extract, and the dial is said to have been "originally blue but has now changed colour to stunning shades of orange and purple"


Ref. 25685BC with black dial & diamond indexes (white gold)





credit: Amsterdam vintage watches


2/ MILLENARY (ref. 25778 with 41x39mm case & cal. 2229)

Ref. 25778OR (rose gold)



credit: dreamwatch.de 


Ref. 25778BC.OO.D001CR.01 (white gold)



credit: Zeitauktion 


2/ ROYAL OAK ref. 25730 (36mm case & caliber 2229)

Ref. 25730ST with white dial (steel)





credit: hairspring


Ref. 25730ST with "Yves Klein" blue dial (steel)



credit: tokant


Ref. 25730ST with tropical blue dial (steel)



credit: montro



credit: vintage uhren 


Ref. 25730SA (yellow gold & steel)





credit: Amsterdam vintage watches


3/ ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE (ref. 25970 with 38mm case & caliber 2229)

Ref. 25970ST.OO.1010ST.01, stainless steel,  ‘Hong Kong’  limited edition of 100 pieces  (1997)



credit: quill & pad courtesy of AP Chronicles


Ref. 25970ST with leather strap (steel)



credit: every watch


Ref. 25970OR with black dial & diamond indexes (rose gold)



credit: collector square


Ref. 25970BA/OO/1010BA/01 limited to 20 pieces (yellow gold)





credit: chronext


4/ DIAL WITH DAY/NIGHT INDICATOR

Ref. 26120OR (rose gold, 39mm case & caliber 2329)



credit: first class timepieces


Ref. 26380OR.OO.D088CR.01  (rose gold, 41mm case & cal. 2329)



credit: watchfinder 










About the Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars Ref. 25685

The Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars reference 25685 is notable for its dual time complication layout, which positions the second time zone at 6 o'clock, the date at 2 o'clock, and the power reserve indicator at 10 o'clock. This specific arrangement of subdials was utilized across several Audemars Piguet collections, including the Millenary, Royal Oak, and Royal Oak Offshore, making the 25685 a foundational example of this particular complication display. Later iterations of this complication would introduce a day/night indicator, distinguishing the earlier 25685 by its cleaner, original dial configuration.

This reference features a 36mm case, with the 25685BA variant specifically crafted in yellow gold. It is powered by either the Audemars Piguet caliber 2129 or 2229, both self-winding movements. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, providing clear visibility of the dial and protecting the intricate mechanics. The design emphasizes legibility and a balanced aesthetic, characteristic of Audemars Piguet's approach to complex timepieces.

For collectors, the reference 25685 represents an early and pure execution of Audemars Piguet's dual time complication before the addition of further indicators. Its presence across multiple collections highlights the versatility and enduring appeal of this specific dial architecture. The availability of variants such as the yellow gold 25685BA offers collectors choices in precious metals, appealing to those who appreciate the brand's traditional watchmaking and the historical development of its complications.

Specifications

Caliber
2129 or 2229
Case
Yellow Gold
Diameter
36mm
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
AM
amanico
Dec 7, 2024
Less fan, here. They all are too close to the JLC sibling.

QU
quattro
Dec 7, 2024
I know that these dual time models have never been very popular,

but I personally like the way the date subdial is a little off-centred and a little higher than the fan-shaped power reserve indicator. I also find very interesting the way AP has made different choices depending on the model concerning this date subdial: either a cut Roman two, either a dot index (instead of stick) or the index removed. Interesting also the way they decided to keep or remove the 48 on the power reserve. As for the JLC sibling, I suppose you mean the Master Control Geographic du

AM
amanico
Dec 7, 2024
Not only. They had the Master Reserve de Marche.

QU
quattro
Dec 7, 2024
Ah, yes, with small seconds instead of second time zone.

So, close dial layout but not dual time, then.

SA
SALMANPK
Dec 7, 2024
That makes them cool 😋😄

AM
amanico
Dec 7, 2024
Well, not so sure...

Available on the marketplace

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