Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790ST Military Dial Guide

CrookedOak · 2025-09-04T15:39:02Z

Explore the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14790ST Military Dial, a rare 36mm variant with a unique Arabic numeral dial. Discover its history, design, and collector appeal.

CrookedOak

WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum

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CrookedOak's exploration of the Audemars Piguet 14790ST Military Dial highlights a unique chapter in Royal Oak history, focusing on a rare variant that defies the line's signature aesthetic. This article delves into why this particular 36mm reference, with its distinctive Arabic numerals and matte black dial, continues to captivate collectors and stands out as a testament to AP's experimental spirit. Readers will gain insight into its origins, design philosophy, and enduring appeal within the luxury watch community.

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Wanted to share some thoughts (and feelings) on one of the most exciting Royal Oaks in my collection: the Audemars Piguet 14790ST sporting the rare Arabic/Military dial. This mid-size 36mm reference has been getting more love lately, but the military dial variant really stands out for those who appreciate the quirky, unusual parts of AP’s history.

The Origin Story

The 14790 reference was AP’s answer to collectors who wanted the legendary Royal Oak design in a more wearable size, with the same impeccable finishing and design DNA. Produced from the early 1990s into the 2000s, the 14790 came in a wild range of dial and metal variations, but the military dial (made roughly in the D & E serial series) is one of its rarest birds.

What makes it tick? The dial features bold, blocky white Arabic numerals on a matte black base, paired with sword-shaped, lume-filled hands and a seconds hand with an arrow tip. The look takes cues from classic military watches—no tapisserie pattern here!—and feels like AP let its hair down for a short-run, never-to-be-repeated experiment.

Why be interested?

These military/Arabic dial 14790s weren’t made in big numbers, and Audemars Piguet has never brought the configuration back. Many collectors spend years hunting for one in good condition. The dial was manufactured by Stern Création, the same famed dialmaker who worked on the original Nautilus and Royal Oak references—big heritage for such a left-field variant.

Beyond rarity, these watches wear beautifully. At 36mm and just over 8mm thick, they are thin and elegant—never too flashy or bulky. The details, especially the crisp numerals and sword hands, have a charm reminiscent of vintage tool watches, but with Royal Oak sophistication.

Passion Points:
- The quiet, almost “stealth” luxury of the midsize Royal Oak.
- The creative, collector-favorite military dial—unique among Royal Oaks.
- AP’s commitment to variation—over 12 years of mid-sized Royal Oak production, with plenty of quirky dials, but few as cool or mysterious as this.
- The way this watch slides under the radar but still rewards close inspection.

If you love Royal Oak history or are searching for that special twist on an icon, the 14790ST Military Dial has serious collector soul. Would love to hear from anyone else with one, or thoughts on “the hunt” for rare AP dials—let’s keep the love for this one alive!

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 14790

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Reference 14790

The reference 14790 represents the 36mm automatic variant within the Royal Oak Selfwinding series. This stainless steel model features the blue dial configuration and was produced from 1993 to 2006, spanning a 13-year production period.

The 36mm stainless steel case houses the automatic caliber 2225 movement, providing 40 hours of power reserve. The watch features a fixed octagonal bezel and sapphire crystal, with water resistance to 50 meters. The blue dial is paired with a steel bracelet, maintaining material consistency throughout the piece.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking the Royal Oak design in a mid-size case diameter with automatic movement. The 36mm proportions position it between smaller and larger variants within the Royal Oak range, while the blue dial offers an alternative to other color configurations available during its production years.

Specifications

Caliber: 2225

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 36 mm

Dial: Blue

Water Resist.: 50m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Audemars Piguet 14790ST Military Dial is considered a very interesting and attractive variant within the Royal Oak line, appealing to collectors who appreciate its unique aesthetic.
The military dial on the 14790ST features bold white Arabic numerals on a matte black base, sword-shaped lume-filled hands, and an arrow-tipped seconds hand, departing from the traditional tapisserie pattern.
The 14790 reference was produced from the early 1990s into the 2000s, with the military dial variant appearing roughly in the D & E serial series, making it one of the rarer configurations.
The dial for the 14790ST Military Dial was manufactured by Stern Création, a renowned dialmaker also responsible for the original Nautilus and Royal Oak references, adding to its heritage.
Despite its 36mm case size, the 14790ST Military Dial wears larger on the wrist than its dimensions suggest, offering a comfortable and substantial feel.
The 14790ST Military Dial is appreciated for its 'stealth' luxury, unique military-inspired dial, and AP's commitment to producing diverse and quirky dials over the 12-year production run of the mid-sized Royal Oak.
The availability of the 14790 military dial was better in the past, with one collector recalling purchasing their own example.
The military dial variant is often compared to other 36mm Royal Oak models like the Nick Faldo edition, with some collectors preferring the military dial's less busy aesthetic.
A preference exists for the brushed steel bezel of the 14790ST over the highly polished platinum bezel found on some other Royal Oak models, though a display back is considered a nice feature.
The 14790ST Military Dial is remembered alongside other 'small' Royal Oak references such as the Nick Faldo and the Tree Foundation models.
The beautifully aged creamy patina on the lume of the military dial enhances its appeal, contributing to its vintage tool watch charm while maintaining Royal Oak sophistication.
The 14790ST is thin and elegant at just over 8mm thick, making it a comfortable and understated watch that rewards close inspection.

The Discussion

amanico

Sep 4, 2025

I remember it very well, along with the Nick Faldo and the Tree Fundation which all were the " small " RO... Cool reference, indeed.

Goh

Sep 5, 2025

Yes...

I remember these fondly too. They aren't small on the wrist - wear a bit bigger than 36 mm on my wrist.

quattro

Sep 4, 2025

Thanks a lot for this very interesting review.

I've been very intrigued by and attracted to the 14790 and 17800 at some point. Some examples look really wonderful. So I fully understand the appeal of this Military variant dial. Best regards, Emmanuel

ChetBaker

Sep 4, 2025

I like this one. I was able to compare it side by side with the Nick Faldo. The latter was not as nice mostly due to the very busy embossed guilloche pattern in the middle of the dial.

Goh

Sep 5, 2025

Agree...

I also prefer the brushed steel bezel to a highly polished platinum one, although the display back is a nice touch (especially during those time when it wasn't as common).

Goh

Sep 5, 2025

I love this 14790 military dial...

Availability was a lot better back in the days... purchased mine for I like these 36 mm ROs, and had the 14790 Automatic in blue dial, 14790ST Automatic in military dial, 25920 Quantieme Annuel, and 25594ST Moonphase. Enjoy this special RO - the dial looks awesome with the beautifully aged creamy patina.