Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Price History
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Price History

By dr.kol · Feb 8, 2015 · 39 replies
dr.kol
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
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Dr.kol offers a unique, personal perspective on the enduring value of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" by comparing its price relative to a sailor's salary across 43 years. This insightful post intertwines personal history with economic analysis, challenging perceptions of watch pricing and market changes.

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Royal Oak "Jumbo" has a very special meaning to me. In 1972 when 5402 was introduced, I started my shipping career in the mature age of 16. I took my first job on 15th June 1972 onboard m.s. "Finnriver" - a conventional dry cargo ship carrying wood pulp, paper and sawn timber from Scandinavia to Mediterranean and some bulk cargoes like fertilisers back to north.

Here is my first working place:





Those days life was quite tuff. When I stepped onboard the ship for the first time, an older AB beat me quite badly just to show who is the boss. But it's time for memories another time - this is a watch forum.

Anyhow, my salary as a deck boy was 480 Finnish Marks per month and it equalled 440 Swiss Francs. The seaman's tax was fixed 18% so my net salary was 361 Swiss Francs.

Those days the newly introduced Royal Oak 5402 was costing 3,200 Swiss Francs meaning that the watch was representing my 8 months 25 days salary.

At the same time I could have bought every month with my salary one Rolex 5513...

The new 15202 that is very very close to the original 5402 has a price tag in Europe of € 18,500 while Rolex 114060 is about € 6,200. Relatively speaking the prices of Rolex rose much faster than the ones of Royal Oak.

According to the current contracts, the lowest salary onboard vessels flying under Finnish flag is € 1,897.50 per month. In other words, the lowest paid Finnish sailor needs about 10 months to collect the money for a 15202 Royal Oak. Not so much has changed.

The issue with vessels under a flag of convenience is a bit different. The minimum salaries under the ITF contract are as follows:

- Ordinary seaman $ 1,375 per month
- Deck boy $ 1,132 per month

So today most of the deck boys would need to work for about 18.5 month to buy their new 15202 Royal Oak and they could not buy a Rolex 5513 every month but would need to work some half a year to buy their Rolex 114060.

Based on this example I am surprised how little the price of Jumbo Royal Oak has changed in nearly 43 years and how much more expensive a Rolex Submariner is than what it used to be decades ago.

I spent a lot of time working and studying. Nowadays I do not need to paint the deck of the ship anymore but operate some 1.5 million dead weight tons of tankers in the fleet of my company. The vessels also look pretty different.





And naturally, a Royal Oak 15202 looks better with a suits than it would look working with most and paint onboard a ship. I was interested about watches already in 1972 but those days something like Royal Oak was something more than a distant dream.






I am sometimes calling the current prices of watches insane. However, some of the prices were insane already in 1972 but the market has changed a bit because most of the better watches are carrying an insane price tag today.

I believe that the people with "normal" income will welcome the smart watches and a long run those will be the winners. Many of the manufacturers of really fine watches have grown too big and the prices are not understandable anymore when thinking what is the value of the work most of the people do.

Best, Kari


About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402

The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.

The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.

For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.

Specifications

Caliber
2121
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Acrylic

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
DR
dr.kol
Feb 8, 2015

Unfortunately this is not the right forum to tell i.e. about love in La Spezia. Seaman's love that lasted less than 5 minutes... Lol! Best, Kari

MI
MichaelC
Feb 8, 2015

I really enjoyed your history and analysis. I import containers of my custom stone products and have learned a little about the industry along the way. I find the vessels fascinating and enjoy tracking them across the ocean as they make there way to the US.

RN
rnaden
Feb 8, 2015

It's not often we read of how different things used to be, but when it relates directly to how much effort and waiting it took to get to where you are and what's on your wrist, the story makes it so much more real and personal, adding to the appreciation. It also signifies the real importance of hard work. As for insanity of prices, that's a rant for another time :-) Thanks for sharing this.

DR
dr.kol
Feb 8, 2015

I do not have any kind of idea where the tankers of my company are. But I know that the ROI was 55.24% last year, I have exact January numbers, a good idea how February is going to end and what type of tankers I intend to add to the fleet list. It's funny how the perspective is changing over the years. However, the seaman times left something to me: even in the most civilised company in a serious environment, I can start using rude language. And I enjoy it! People expect that a Ph.D. would speak

DR
dr.kol
Feb 8, 2015

For most of the people those are something distant and they also consider the prices insane. I like to remind myself that I'm in a very lucky position when I have been able to buy during the first six weeks of the year three new watches. And all of these three are such that most of the people should work many months to acquire even one. Best, Kari

SM
small-luxury-world
Feb 8, 2015

I met on a trip from Hamburg to Aquaba (years ago) have been far away from dreaming about watches at all ;-) Cheers, Oliver

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