Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo References Overview
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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo References Overview

By orangedial · Mar 5, 2014 · 25 replies
orangedial
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Orangedial offers a comprehensive comparison of several Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 'Jumbo' references, sharing his personal experiences with their styling, wearing comfort, and subtle design differences. His insights provide valuable context for collectors navigating the nuances between vintage and modern iterations of this iconic timepiece. This article helps new readers understand the evolution of the Royal Oak and appreciate the specific characteristics that define each reference.

Although much have been discussed before, I still hope to share my humble experience after being blessed with some great opportunities to handle several versions of the jumbo, new and old. It is not a review but just some thoughts on the styling, wearing comfort, etc comparing the different generations and also other more modern models such as the 15300 & 15400. In a nutshell, all ROs are special. Although one may wear slightly differently from another, they are all winners in their own rights.  


5402 - Its 7mm "thick" case with solid case back is the slimmest. The legendary 2121 movement is concealed within the monocoque watch case. Agreed that the GF clasp is very comfortable but the older bracelet design has very limited removable links and it only suits larger wrist size. It didn't fit very well on my 6.75" wrist. The entire watch, while look sporty, does feel a little fragile due to the thin case and very thin bracelet. But it looks extremely good on the wrist. The original dial with the double-stick 12 o'clock marker and the AP logo at 6pm is the most iconic jumbo dial, and the nicest of all. 



Another detail of 5402 which I like is the tapered case back. Look at how the case back tapered from the side of the watch case towards the centre
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14802 (Jubilee) - The first 8mm case with display case back exposing the amazing 2121 movement. The clasp is now single-fold. The plain rectangular shape clasp is very comfortable as there is no protruding edges like the newer AP logo single-fold clasp. For a smaller wrist like mine, I swap the orientation of the clasp to achieve better wearing comfort. The petite tapiserie dial is equally mesmerising as the original 5402. 








15202 (pre-2012) - Same case size as 14802. Major design change in the dial, rotor engraving, and sporting the new AP logo single-fold clasp. With the shorter hour markers, arabic numbering on the outer ring, white box around the date aperture and the grand tapiserie dial, the entire watch looks even more sportier. The 3 dial colours (charcoal, slate-blue and white) offer good choices. The AP logo clasp doesn't wear as comfortable but it sure is elegant. The engraving of the rotor is tasteful.






15202 (2012) - As many have put, it is as close to the original as you can get for the jumbo. We see the return of double-stick 12 o'clock marker and AP@6, as well as the famed petite tapiserie dial. The blue dial has a new shade of blue which is not quite near the original. I still feel the original dial colour is somewhat mysterious and more attractive. The little squares on the dial seem to be spaced a little far apart from each other compared to the original petite tapiserie dial. The font used is also changed. The result is a more modern and technical feel as opposed to the more classical feeling of the original design. The dark-blue date wheel with white numbering is however a welcomed detail which adds to the cohesiveness of the entire dial. The new rotor engraving is nice but feels more "industrial" compared to the previous model. The bracelet has been reworked with thicker size (same size or "flushed" with the lug-end of the watch case... previous model has a bracelet thinner than the lug). The clasp is now an enhanced butterfly clasp. The new bracelet has somehow given this revised jumbo a much bolder presence than the previous models, and it does give a more solid feeling in the hand.  








How about the 15300 and 15400? 

With the in-house 3120 movement, they come with a slightly thicker watch case and thicker bracelet. These add to a more substantial feeling and a bolder wrist presence compared to the jumbos. The modern models also have 60hr power reserve (as compared to the 38hr on the jumbo), quick-set date and second hand, which provide convenience and a sense of interaction assuring the wearer that the watch is ticking! As for 39mm vs 41mm, my take is that there is no real pros and cons here, it only depends on individual preference of size. As a matter of fact, the design of the RO's integrated steel bracelet makes the entire watch wears like a... bracelet. I think any size from 33mm - 44mm would look great on the wrist as long as the watch matches the apparel and style.

A pvd-ed 15300. Not the best example... but it's kinda cool..



15400. The bigger case size wears quite balanced on my 6.75" wrist. The new bracelet allows more room for adjustment too. (The bracelet in the photo has not been adjusted).



Don't ever forget the 36mm 14790.

I have to say that the 36mm size is most suitable for 6" - 6.5" wrist. However, it looks very balanced on my 6.75" wrist too. The overall slim profile and the same petite tapiserie dial like the jumbo make the watch very dressy. People who look for the 36mm RO are certainly spoilt with many dial options, movement types, case/bracelet materials and even complications.

Here's a photo of a 2-tone one that I've handled before. 



About other smaller ROs… A quick shot here of my wife's Lady RO on my wrist! Not really out of place though in terms of size except for the diamonds…



Hope these info and personal experience of mine is helpful for anyone who has yet to firm up his/her mind for a Royal Oak smile

About the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Ref. 5402

The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.

The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.

For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.

Specifications

Caliber
2121
Case
Stainless steel
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Blue
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Acrylic

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The Discussion
MA
Mark in Paris
Mar 5, 2014

Thanks a lot for sharing your thoughts and showing us many unusual ROs. Very interesting. Cheers, Mark

MI
MichaelC
Mar 5, 2014

Great information in there and a wonderful summary of the Royal Oak. I have shared some of my feelings on the newest 15202 and will bring more soon. I appreciate it more every day, and a summary post like yours reveals the great challenge AP had in updating this icon, and how great of a job they did. BTW, back to the Masthead for you with the wonderful Salmon dial... I really want to add one of those.

RE
respo
Mar 5, 2014

Thanks for posting this summary of the Royal Oaks. Here is one that you may not have seen and handled: This is the 15002, a transitional model, the last series produced with a solid case back and in production more or less concurrently with the Jubilee series (like your salmon dial model). Here it is on the right above, next to a new 15202, and one can see that the new 15202 appears a bit more substantial than the former solid case back series. Thanks again for this interesting summary. Best, re

RN
rnaden
Mar 5, 2014

I needed this. Gives me a lot more information and history of the Royal Oak. Some here know I've been dreaming and contemplating on one for a while now, and I've decided to take the plunge with the 15450, simply because I like the size and fit, and the silver white dial and how it captures the light. That will arrive this Friday and I will share some pictures when it does.

JE
JerryW
Mar 5, 2014

Each version seems to be special in its own way. I have always considered the Jumbo to be the Perfect AP. JerryW

OR
Ornatus-Mundi
Mar 6, 2014

I learned a lot - the details, e.g. the tapered case back - makes the watch (and my personal choice) even more exciting. You really encouraged me to inspect the different dial finishes (esp. the tapisserie styles) in much more detail than I already did. Thanks ever so much for your work! Magnus P.S.: You post also demonstrates how important it is to search for an example with a (maybe) slightly scratched but never refinished case!

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