Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, offers an unparalleled historical deep dive into Audemars Piguet's Royal Oak pocket watches. His meticulous research uncovers two distinct generations from the 1980s and 1990s, complete with reference numbers, production figures, and rare imagery. This article is essential for collectors seeking to understand a lesser-known, yet significant, chapter in the Royal Oak's storied history.
Here is an overview of the Royal Oak pocket watches that I have been able to identify.
They fall into two generations: the first from the 1980s, the second from the 1990s.
Enjoy and thanks for looking!
Best, Emmanuel
I. FIRST GENERATION OF ROYAL OAK POCKET WATCHES - 1980s
The first generation, launched in the early 1980s, comprises the following references:
A/ REF. 5691 (renamed 35691 in 1984–85)
This reference, which is the first Royal Oak pocket watch, has a 44 mm case made by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey.
The archives mention a launch in 1979, but the Production Registers (Registres d'Etablissage) indicate that the 116 or so of these watches produced were sold between 1980 and 1985.
1/ YELLOW GOLD - 5691BA
Sales from 1980 to 1985: 64 units in all, of which 12 (1980), 43 (1981), 5 (1982), 3 (1983) and 1 (1985)
White dial
Champagne dial
The
bezel is
gem-set on its
edge. The
hour-markers are replaced by
long baguette-cut diamonds.
Launch date:
1981
credit: AP Chronicles
C/ REF. 5710 (renamed 35710 in 1984–85)
First ever
openworked Royal Oak with 44 mm case.
Calibre 5020SQ.
Launch date: 1981
Sales from 1981 to 1989:
total of 20 units of which 16 in 1981, 2 in 1983, 1 in 1984 and 1 in 1989.
credit: Hodinkee & AP Chronicles
D/ REF. 5745 (renamed 35745 in 1984–85)
This reference is distinguished by its bezel set with 56 diamonds and by its slim bow accentuated by 10 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The archives mention a launch in 1983.
To date, only one example – sold in 1985 – has been found in the Production Registers.
credit: AP Chronicles
E/ REF. 5746 (renamed 35746 in 1984–85)
This reference offers both a gemset case and an openworked calibre (calibre 5020SQ).
Launch date: 1983.
A search of the archives has revealed only one example, sold in August 1984.
credit: The Keystone & AP Chronicles (last image only)
II. SECOND GENERATION OF ROYAL OAK POCKET WATCHES - 1990s According to
AP Chronicles, the
second generation of
Royal Oak Pocket watches comprises the following references:
- 35796
- 35797 (no images found)
- 35798 (no images found)
- 35800 (no images found)
- 35801 (no images found)
As well as these other two, featuring a perpetual calendar:
Unfortunately, I have found images only for references 35796, 25728 & 25729 and an additional unidentified example.
A/ REF. 35796 47 mm pink gold case
credit: BonhamsG/ REF. 25728
47 mm pink gold case.
Caliber 5020/2820 with perpetual calendar.
credit: Ineichen & Christie’s (last two images only)
B/ REF. 25729PT
47 mm platinum case.
C/ UNIDENTIFIED SKELETONISED REFERENCE WITH ENGRAVING DEPICTING THE “H.M.S. ROYAL OAK”
Movement no. 280437, 48 mm pink gold case no. D 29647, circa 1995
Pink gold pierced and engraved dial depicting the famous battleship, "H.M.S. Royal Oak" built in 1862.
credit: Christie's
BONUS: REF. 5690 “ROPE” OCTAGONAL POCKET WATCH
42 mm case
