quattro's latest post offers a discerning look at three Audemars Piguet models, providing invaluable insights for collectors considering these references. His detailed observations on dial textures, case complexities, and movement aesthetics highlight the subtle yet significant design choices that define AP's contemporary offerings. This article frames quattro's expert perspective, making his hands-on experience accessible and relevant to both seasoned enthusiasts and new collectors exploring the brand.
During a recent visit to a boutique of the brand, I've been able to try on
three Audemars Piguet models.
First, a "simple" steel selfwinding Code 11.59.
Ref. 15210ST.OO.A009KB.01
I had never seen the new embossed dials decorated with a ripple-like pattern and wanted to see them in the metal.
I must say they
look much better in real life than on photos, but I'm still not fond of them and
preferred the previous dials, especially the ones with a
fumรฉ finish. I personally prefer almost everything about them (the date at 4:30, the thin "needle" hands and the cleaner minutes track), except the font of the numerals, which I don't really like:
(๐๐ผ
Bolshoi Limited Edition Ref. 15210BC.OO.A321CR.99 - credit: Sjx)
Nevertheless, this
steel version with a
grey dial framed by a deep blue inner bezel is
really good-looking and
attractive. I've always liked the
complex case and crystal of the Code 11.59 and this iteration does it justice.
Finally, another aspect of this model which I find great and which makes it an interesting value proposition, imo, is that its
caliber 4302 is
well sized for the case and that the
rotor, which has incredibly
sharp interior angles, lets you see as much of the movement as possible:
I liked the
previous rotor with the
coats of arms of the Audemars and Piguet families, but it was much more
obtrusive:
(๐๐ผ
Burgundy model, ref. 15210BC.OO.A500KB.01 - credit: k2luxury)
I was then shown the
new white gold Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar.
Ref. 26494BC.OO.D350KB.01
I was shown on an enlarged mockup the ingenuity of the new caliber 7138, with its three patented mechanisms enabling the functions to be adjusted solely with the crown and preventing any risk of damage while adjusting: from a technical standpoint, it's very impressive.
(credit: AP)
The smoked blue dial and overall blue hue felt quite nice, even if I personally preferred the grey dial with deep blue inner bezel of the "simple" model:
As I said to the sales manager that I personally preferred the "
31-1" of the
previous date subdial layout to the
new "
7-8" , I was explained that this combination was chosen because 8 is a number which can look the same whether reversed or not.
Nevertheless,
I didn't really feel attracted to this model because
I had in mind the previous one, ref. 26394OR.OO.D027KB.01, with its
aventurine dial, which I tried on in 2021 and which left a much stronger impression on me:
All the more so since
the caliber looked a bit small for the case. It was indeed very striking for me to see that the "simple" model has a better sized caliber for a similar 41 mm case (
caliber 4302, shown above,
is 32 mm, whereas
caliber 7138 is only 29.6 mm):
Finally, as was shown at my request a 37mm grey dial Royal Oak, a model which I was interested in at some point and which I had tried on in 2021, before it was updated in 2022.
Ref. 15550ST.OO.1356ST.07
I've always found the 37 mm to be a good fit for my smallish wrist:
And I think that the
new cleaner dial,
without "AP" at 12 o'clock and "Automatic" at 6 o'clock and with a new
seconds hand counterweight looks globally better than the dial of the previous model, ref. 15450ST.OO.1256ST.02:๐๐ผ
But for the
almost exact same price, I think
the steel grey dial Code 11.59 is a much more interesting proposition. The
caliber 5900 of this small Royal Oak, in particular, is quite
disappointing: small (26.2 mm), even for a 37 mm case and coming with a rotor with far inferior anglage:
As a conclusion, I would say that I'm not really interested in any of these three watches, but I find the "simple" grey dial Code 11.59 to be a very nice watch.
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
