Audemars Piguet: Vintage Models & History
Vintage

Audemars Piguet: Vintage Models & History

By quattro · Oct 24, 2024 · 22 replies
quattro
WPS member · Audemars Piguet forum
22 replies5246 views16 photos
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quattro's exploration of Audemars Piguet's vintage chronographs and their modern reinterpretation, the [Re]master01, offers a compelling look at the brand's design heritage. This article delves into the aesthetic DNA that connects these historical pieces to contemporary releases, prompting a discussion among collectors about design choices, movement selection, and market reception. quattro's detailed photographic essay provides the perfect backdrop for understanding the enduring appeal and challenges of vintage-inspired watchmaking.

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Each time I see a [Re]master01 for sale, with a price way below the original retail (which was around €53k), I don't exactly feel tempted (just a little, though), but I certainly feel very nostalgic. 

Here's why, in photos...

Best.






1942 36mm case 18-carat yellow gold chronograph with cal. Valjoux 13”’ VZ from Marcus Margulies' collection (of Marcus Watches, London Bond Street) - Credit: Bexsonn


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

1939 34mm case 18-carat yellow gold chronograph with cal. Valjoux 13”’ VZ from Marcus Margulies' collection (of Marcus Watches, London Bond Street) - Credit: Bexsonn 


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

1941 33mm case 18-carat yellow gold chronograph with cal. Valjoux 13”’ VZ from Marcus Margulies' collection (of Marcus Watches, London Bond Street) - Credit: Bexsonn


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

1946 40mm case 18-carat yellow gold chronograph with cal. Valjoux 13”’ VZ from Marcus Margulies' collection (of Marcus Watches, London Bond Street) - Credit: Bexsonn


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

1940s chronograph that belongs to collector Eric Ku (credit: Hodinkee)


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Ref. 1533, source of inspiration of the [Re]master01, with a green-gold dial and sword-shaped hands (credit: Les Rhabilleurs & Hodinkee, courtesy of Phillips Watch Department)


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Ref. 1533, exact source of inspiration of the [Re]master01 (credit: Hodinkee)


Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

Watch by Audemars Piguet, AP Limited Edition, ReMaster01

[Re]master01 with it's 40mm case of 14.6 mm thickness and modern cal. 4409 flyback vertical clutch chronograph (credit: Hodinkee)

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
BR
bruckner4
Oct 24, 2024

These vintage push my buttons. Dreams...

M1
m1ti
Oct 24, 2024

Would be a serious competitor to VC cow's horns. Price is not bad imo but 15mm is too unbearable for me.

QU
quattro
Oct 24, 2024

A lot of the other aspects seems very attractive to me.

QU
quattro
Oct 24, 2024

I think I could do with the modern caliber, but not with the thickness. Such a pity, such a lost opportunity…

QU
quattro
Oct 24, 2024

and a true contender to the CdV. But, as shows the recent launch of the [Re]master02 (which is another missed opportunity imo) AP doesn’t seem to fully believe in these pieces: I mean, they have no intention to make them a solid part of their current catalog, unfortunately.

JM
jmpTT
Oct 24, 2024

My favourite is the possibly the first one, though the Ref 1533 and (Re)master01 are not far behind. It's interesting how Audemars Piguet was able to establish a DNA with this small collection. They all have some common style elements. When sold brand new, mutli-watch collections weren't really a thing. Something like the Ref 1533, could have been overlooked for something more conventionally beautiful like the Patek Ref 130. The (Re)Master is indeed a bit thick, but the proportions are okay. It'

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