Baselworld 2014: Top Watch Selections & Insights

foversta · 2014-04-01T13:52:33Z

foversta's Baselworld 2014 selection: De Bethune, Lang & Heyne, Voutilainen, Grönefeld, Longines, Fiona Krüger, Girard-Perregaux, Hajime Asaoka, Artya.

foversta

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

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foversta's Baselworld 2014 selection provides a critical yet insightful overview of the year's watch releases, highlighting both perceived disappointments from major brands and standout innovations from independents. This article serves as a valuable historical record, offering a collector's perspective on the industry's direction during a challenging economic period.

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During the Fair we had a lot of discussion about our feelings and we were many of us rather disappointed by the 2014 collections. To be more precise, we are in the same trend than during the SIHH: very controlled offers from the large brands which want to limit the risks in a very difficult economic context. Let's take an example: Patek. I didn't find the 2014 collection special. The same in a lot of other big brands except with Girard-Perregaux or Blancpain.

Having said that, there were several nuggests hidden in Baselworld corridors so please find below my selection limited to 10 watches without any particular order.

The masterpieces of the Fair were the 2 chronographs from De Bethune and the Augustus from Lang & Heyne.

The first ones cause they redesign the complication, the last one becomes... it creates one!

The purpose of the De Bethune chronographs is to improve the legibility due to the use of central hands and in a mechanical point of view, to smoothen the impact of the use of the chronograph function and to make it more accurate:

The Lang & Heyne Augustus is pure ingenuity...

It is a watch dedicated to foolish people like me who always forget the key dates! The watch also calculates the ages of these dates but if we are talking about the birthdate of a lady, please forget this function!

Ban Ki-Moon is in its 70th year:

Let's have a look at two Tourbillon now...

Kari Voutilainen offered us a spectacular timepiece with different types of guillochage on the blue dial:

... while the Grönefeld brothers unveiled a very important piece for them, the Parallax Tourbillon. Why Parallax? Because it features two second hands (a central one and on the Tourbillon) which are always parallel.

And more importantly, the watch embodies the Grönefeld style. It shares a lot of common details with the One Herz. The Grönefeld brothers are building their identity.

An excellent surprise from Longines! This re-edition of the Conquest Heritage comes in a 35mm case (yes!!!) and without any date display (yes, yes!!!). At the end, a very charming and elegant watch at an affordable price. Well done!

Fiona Krüger didn't have a booth at Baselworld. So I called her and we organized an appointment. For me: the most surprising watch of the Fair... with an unsurprising topic (skull again) but this time with a real atmosphere, a real passion...

The Neo-Tourbillon is much more than a contemporary interpretation of the 3 bridges Tourbillon. It embodies a new aesthetic ambition as you can feel it with the hands and the very curved style. I love Girard-Perregaux when they manage to combine the skills of the Manufacture with an original design.

The AHCI booth always offers wonderful surprise and the Tourbillon by Hajime Asaoka charmed me by its achievement and its design:

Last watch of the selection... the Broken Glass by Artya, my fav Spirit of Sound! The line was presented last year but it is available now with new dials. And this dial seduced me!

This selection gathers 10 watches and I could maybe add some. The fact that there was no clear "watch of the fair" symbolizes an average year but which also manages to preserve some points of interest.

Fx

This message has been edited by foversta on 2014-04-01 14:08:32

Key Points from the Discussion

Independents are increasingly occupying a significant space in watchmaking, both aesthetically and mechanically, with brands like De Bethune and Hajime Asaoka leading in creativity and efficiency.
Despite initial disappointment, the year was still interesting for many brands, presenting appealing watches even without huge surprises from traditional manufacturers.
The Longines Conquest Heritage re-edition, with its 35mm case and no date display, was a very positive surprise, offering a charming and elegant watch at an affordable price.
The Kari Voutilainen timepiece with its blue guilloché dial was considered sublime and a favorite piece from the fair.
The Omega Seamaster 300, despite some controversy, was lauded as a near-perfect 'hommage' and a potential acquisition for collectors who typically favor vintage or independent watches.
Girard-Perregaux's high-end offerings, including minute repeaters, chronographs, constant escapements, and tourbillons, were praised for their finish and overall quality.

The Discussion

amanico

Apr 1, 2014

GP is a clear winner for me. Their collection, in the high end segment, is superb.

The Longines is very cool, too. Very well done. And quite daring to offer this Watch in such a reasonable diameter. BRAVO! Best, Nicolas

Mohannad (aka Riddler)

Apr 2, 2014

+1 on both counts nico, i too think GP this year outdid themselves

and I was also taken by the longines Heritage 1935

amanico

Apr 2, 2014

Well, every year, GP has something interesting and exciting to offer.

Minute Repeater, Chronograph, Constant Escapement, Tourbillon- simple or mutli axis-with gold(en) bridge(s), their high end offer is at the level of the finish, amazing. You'll see, te GP forum will be fed with a lot of interesting topics all along the year. All the best! Nicolas

foversta

Apr 2, 2014

GP has a strong collection in the high end segment.

When it comes to the other side of the collection, there were several nice pieces but once again, the most difficult challenge is still here: to be able to create a true "hit" watch which is affordable. But things are progressing and are on the right path. Fx

amanico

Apr 2, 2014

Agreed. There are some nice possibilities, when you consider the 1966 and Vintage 45 Line.

For example, the Blue Vintage 45, or the open dialed sister, woudl be perfect with the smaller case. Not convinced by the Traveller, sorry to say. I will elaborate my point soon. The Sea Hawk was a good surprise, much better in the real than on pictures. While the Chrono Hawk is not for me. In the 1966 lines, there are some pure marvels. Not olny the Chrono or the Minute Repeater, but in the more affordable range. The enamel dial is one of them. I still miss a Richeville, like the Day Night! As

ztirual

Apr 1, 2014

KV and DB hands down for me

Many thanks for your very nice and original selection, Forvesta.

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Baselworld 2014: Top Watch Selections & Insights

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