Belles Montres Show in Paris Review

Baselworld and the SIHH are approaching. We will see many wonders over there again this year.

 

However these shows are business shows and even if their visit is always a great pleasure for watchnuts like us, some could find that only looking at watches in windows is somewhat frustrating!

 

If you can't get appointments in Basel or Geneva, you can now try later in Paris without notice. You won't see them all, but you'll have access to many and you'll be able to discuss with watchmakers and company representatives that are here to meet passionate people.

 

The first "Belles Montres" show took place in Paris last December. You've certainly read several very interesting reports here on PuristSPro by our fellow Purist Foversta.

 

I hope that we'll see this new show take place again in 2008. Before that happens I want to share with you some thoughts I've had following this show.

 

Let me say first that inside the show and next to the exhibitions by several brands one of the most interesting parts of the show was IMVHO the exhibition "The Chronograph An Expression Of A Modern Era" by the FHH – Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie.

 

The exhibition was organized by Mr Dominique Fléchon and his team and partners.

 

The « Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie » exhibition

 

This exhibition is an evolution of another exhibition presented at the SIHH 2005. No doubt that all chronograph fans, and I know there are a few here, should take any opportunity to see this exhibition that should perhaps travel. It's also an opportunity for me to advise those that will visit the SIHH in the future not to forget the historical exhibitions!

 

The history of chronographs in one visit

 

One of the most extraordinary pieces of the historical exhibition was a pedometer watch signed Ralph Gout, London.This very luxurious timepiece may have been the property of a high ranking soldier.

 

Pedometer watch circa 1800 signed Ralph Gout, London; Horology Museum Beyer, Zurich

 

If the exhibition was showing very early timepieces, the vast majority of the watches were wristwatches from the last century.

 

Some of the most recent chronographs were on exhibition and if Jaeger-LeCoultre was not exhibiting at the show, the much awaited Duometre a Chronographe was presented in this exhibition.

 

Co-axial Minerva monopusher chronograph

 

I love those old Minerva chronographs

 

Another Minerva monopusher chronograph

 

This kind of show is a rare opportunity to see rare watches that we generally only see in books. I'm a great fan of early Cartier watches, a brand nearly always under estimated for its past and current position in the horological world.

 

Pocket split seconds chronograph by Cartier, around 1925 ; Cartier Collection

 

One of the watches that I generally always try to see when I'm in Paris is the current Cartier Tortue Monopusher. The historical example that was exhibited is an ideal one IMO as it has a round seconds scale on its dial and I consider that all chronographs should always have such round scale, even when they have form cases! This round scale was available on the current Tortue Chronograph (hopefully it is still), and was also available in some Girard-Perregaux Richeville chronographs. This kind of detail is what makes a chronograph usable IMO unlike  some very appealing chronographs like the RM chronographs for instance.

 

Cartier Tortue Chronograph Monopusher, 1929 ; Cartier Collection

 

I discovered a watch I didn't know anything about. I had never heard of this Daniel Roth split seconds chronograph. That's a real collector's item!

 

Daniel Roth split seconds chronograph

 

This exhibition seemed to enjoy a great success as Parisians have little opportunity to see such watches.

 

Vintage watches at their best ?

 

Probably the most impressive timepiece of the show, it was finally not a vintage watch and was not exhibited by the FHH.

 

Richard Mille Planetarium

 

You'll see no wrist shot of course, but just a table shot !

 

This Planetarium is quite impressive although I must confess I see it much more as a museum piece than a real object of desire!

 

The ultimate RM ?

 

You easily understand that wrist watch construction has very tight tolerances in the adjustment of pieces. But this kind of construction quite probably has even tighter tolerances.

 

We have the best planet !

 

We keep asking for larger calibres! Is it enough this time?

 

We had IMO not seen such a piece since the "Esprit des Cabinotiers" clock launched for the 250^th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin.

 

The latest adult flipper ?

 

Tempted by some more classical independants watches ?

 

The three musketeers from Delaloye

 

I've had the pleasure to meet Nicolas Delaloye and see his crafts. Although the style of his watches is not always at my taste, I have a great respect for his project, for his work, for his passion. His watches are impressive and worthy of great interest.

 

Very tasty and classical

 

I've been able to see and show on my pics 4 different watches. Two of them are time only men's models equipped with Nicolas Delaloye's own calibre. The other two are vintage chronograph calibres refinished by Nicolas.

 

Not totally to my taste yes but I'm not indifferent

 

These chronograph calibres are very nicely finished and mounted in unique pieces. The dials show a huge work that you have to see to really appreciate.

 

Nicolas Delaloye with unique piece Valjoux 71 calibre

 

If you've liked the first piece you may appreciate the second chronograph version. This second watch, also unique, is fitted with no less than a split seconds chronograph calibre from Venus. I must also confess that its dial is also much more to my taste.

 

You may also consider this offering as a proof that Nicolas Delaloye can very probably become the extraordinary arm of your unique watch to be.

 

The Venus calibre split seconds chronograph Delaloye unique piece

 

We'll see the chronograph calibres below but before that let's have a look at Nicolas Delaloye's more personal watches.

 

The ND41s.g

 

The ND41 watches are equipped with a 30m waterproof 41mm gold case, a mother-of-pearl dial with engine turned silvered center, and gold applied indexes and hands.

 

The ND41s.r

 

Below this dial is the ND01s calibre by Nicolas Delaloye. This calibre measures 28mm and is 4,4mm thick. This is a 72 hours power reserve hand wound calibre running at 18000 vph. It is equipped with a screw balance and a Breguet curb spiral.

 

The white gold ND41 engraved calibre

 

This calibre exists in two styles of finish. One is traditional Swiss and very beautifully done, the other is engraved. You will have to take my pics as a teaser as they are not excellent, neither good enough to show what has to be shown. Sorry

 

Black polished escapement bridge

 

What you can't see on my pics and even in some cases on the watch itself is the very high level of finish. If you appreciate the best Swiss classical work on calibres you may try to handle one of these someday.

 

You may notice the finish of the center wheel

 

I personaly don't appreciate very much engraved calibres so I won't comment and will let you make your own opinion.  I really appreciate the classical one.

 

The traditional Swiss finish version

 

The level of finish is easier to notice on the Geneva striped version, even if not on my pics.

 

This time please notice the woolf teeth barrel wheel

 

Each calibre carries a numbered plate and a Maker's mark. The case carries the same number.

 

Don't you like it ?

 

The chronograph calibres, although not in-house, seemingly show the same level of high finish as far as I've been able to see.

 

The Venus split seconds calibre

 

Split seconds chronographs are always a treat to look at as they are somewhat complicated and rare sights.

 

The secret back on a heavy secret

 

If you don't find this calibre impressive you'd better go into another hobby! 

 

We've seen a re-edition recently in Girard-Perregaux, Paul Picot, Panerai, and Parmigiani watches.

 

How often will we see such beasties ?

 

The Valjoux chronograph is of course less impressive after seeing the split seconds one, but it is still very nicely done!

 

Enamelled back of the Valjoux Chronograph

 

May I say that I was very happy to discover and handle these watches from Nicolas Delaloye, because they are beautiful, rare, and come from a passionate team?

 

May I add that if you appreciate his work, like for all independents the only way to support him is to adopt one of his babies!

 

You want a rare and finished chronograph?

 

I may finish this visit with a very different watch. I've always been a fan of the Urwerk designs since I knew them. The version I've selected for you is my favourite so far.

 

Urwerk 103.08 in TiAIN treated steel

 

This steel version was perfect to suit my favourite shirt!

 

The Titanium Aluminium Nitride finish gives a very interesting colour and a multiplied resistance to scratches, shocks, oxidation, and acids (in case?).

 

I'd love to live with it !

 

This version being in steel should be the most accessible Urwerk (not accessible to me yet, alas)!

 

You can sleep with it

 

It fits better on my wrist than it seems on the pictures.

 

What time is it ?

 

I hope you enjoyed this little visit. That was a great show and I'll try to have more time this year to share more!

 

Dje