La Belles Montres: A 'Pick and Mix' Selection
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La Belles Montres: A 'Pick and Mix' Selection

By 219 · Dec 2, 2012 · 2 replies
219
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
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Andrew H, known as 219, shares his 'pick and mix' impressions from La Belles Montres, the annual watch fair in Paris. His report offers a personal tour through the event, highlighting notable pieces from Richard Mille, Chanel, and Harry Winston, and providing a collector's perspective on their innovations.

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Richard (and RM EMEA) kindly invited me to Paris for the day to visit Belles Montres, the annual watch fair in Paris, now in its 6th edition. Located in the Annex to I.M.Pei’s stunning extension to the Louvre (the Carrousel de Louvre), Belles Montres brings together watchmakers young and old, large and small, to show their watches to both press and public. Being underground, the show lacks for some natural light, but that said, the area has a cavernous ‘Cave of Wonders’ feel to it that makes you think you are in a hidden treasure trove. And so you are - to an extent!

There was a lot on show, and I only took a few photos. Not too many friends around, so mainly just some watches to see.



Andrew H

Richard Mille’s ice cool RM055

richardmille.watchprosite.com

Chanel – fashion is not longer frivolous! Deadly serious and seriously fabulous!





Another French brand that is starting to make its presence felt in the high end watch market is Chanel. I have to say that Chanel is clearly ahead of the others in the fashion business who are trying to diversify across into haute horologerie. While their J12 Tourbillon Mysterieus may have lacked direction in terms of what it was trying to achieve; and why the complication was as it was, this cannot be said of the Premiere Tourbillon. I have to say that this is a contender in my book for ‘Watch of the Year’ (even in an overall category).





The Chanel Premiere Tourbillon is as near perfection in a joaillerie watch as I can imagine, that is both recognizable instantly as being from a fashion house (Chanel) but also for the high end horologerie (courtesy of AP R&P) that is clearly on display. The price is around 270k CHF, which by most standards is jaw droppingly expensive, except where the competition for this watch is aimed. Think of anything that is in this stratospheric area, and you start to think of the Chanel as a relative bargain! With a limited edition of only 20 watches, Chanel have limited the series wisely and made it sought after. For the same money, jeweled versions of other watch manufacturers are near alternatives, but very few could boast of a movement by one of only two really specialized tourbillon movement designers and manufacturers, and without the stunning diamond encrusted case.



Harry Winston

The two goliaths on display were the Opus 12 and the (Battlestar Gallactica life sized) Histoire model 2. While both are technical tour de force watches, I think both leave a little to be desired in terms of what a wristwatch should be. I know that this is probably a minority view, while a clever piece of micro mechanical work, there is still the issue that this is only an approximate time keeping. In the same way that Opus 8 was clever, and it was, it misses the point. Time keeping is the first primary reason for a watch. Opus 12 is only an indication of what the time of day actually is.





As for the Histoire, I cannot fathom why the watch is so large. All I can say is that while I admire the obvious tour de force that it is, it would not be for me (even if I could afford it!).

MB&F

This year’s ‘top dog’ and major winner at the Geneve Grand Prix de Haute Horologerie, I took some pictures of Max’s creations next to the trophies just to say congratulations! Which I do! Love the finishing on the Legacy Machine 1, although it is not for me. Love the HM4 most of all. Always thought it was the mechanical watch of the science fiction future; the watch that Dan Dare would have worn had learned of MB&F in his comic book adventures in outer space.







Andrew H

About the Richard Mille Bubba Watson Ref. RM055

Richard Mille RM055 Bubba Watson

The RM055 represents Richard Mille's approach to ultra-lightweight construction within the RM 055 series. This reference distinguishes itself through its skeletonized dial architecture and advanced composite case material, positioning it among the brand's contemporary offerings focused on material innovation.

The 43mm case is constructed from NTPT Carbon with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. The manual-winding RMUL2 caliber provides a 70-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 50 meters. The skeletonized dial reveals the movement architecture, while a rubber strap completes the configuration.

Produced from 2013 onwards, the RM055 appeals to collectors interested in Richard Mille's carbon fiber technology and manual-winding complications. The combination of NTPT Carbon construction and extended power reserve positions this reference for enthusiasts seeking contemporary horological materials within the brand's portfolio.

Specifications

Caliber
RMUL2
Case
NTPT Carbon
Diameter
43 mm
Dial
Skeletonized
Water Resist.
50m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
FO
foversta
Dec 2, 2012

I don't agree with your comments about Opus 12. Obviously reading the time requires an acclimatization period. But once you get the trick, you can read the time quickly on it. About the accuracy of the watch by itself, I do believe that Harry Winston and Centagora chose the right method with the two independant barrels... which may have an interraction between them. I discussed many times with Emmanuel Bouchet about this topic and I feel very comfortable with the performance of the watch. About

AN
AndrewD
Dec 4, 2012

What a magical environment to see these watches. Actually that Channel Mystery Tourbillon looks pretty cool in black ceramic and sapphire. I like. Andrew

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