10 Black-Dialed Chronographs Collection
Collection

10 Black-Dialed Chronographs Collection

By cazalea · May 10, 2018 · 7 replies
cazalea
WPS member · Seiko forum
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Cazalea's exploration of his collection of ten black-dialed chronographs offers a fascinating study in horological diversity within a seemingly narrow aesthetic. This post challenges the notion that such watches are 'boring,' instead revealing the subtle yet significant differences that make each piece unique. His personal reflection on why these particular chronographs resonated with him provides a relatable perspective for any collector.

I've been wearing my Seiko Presage Chronograph this week, the one with black Urushi lacquer dial. Rather than just feature this watch, I thought - why not take a picture of my 2 or 3 black-dialed Chronos and compare them for a quick post this morning?

Although the majority of my watches have light dials, my chronos are all black. Much to my amazement, I eventually found 10 black-dialed chronographs in my watch cabinet! Why do I have so many that look so much alike? How do they differ?  I pulled them all out and a few hours later ...

THE FRONT VIEW

Here's a front view of the "fleet". 



THE BACK VIEW

and their backsides.






I began to wonder WHAT? and WHY? and HOW? had these watches clicked? How had they convinced me to buy (and keep) 10 of them. I wondered if this was a reflection of my mental state? Did it indicate some fixation? Some theme?

Taking them all out of the cabinet for winding, setting and photos gave me a chance to examine each of them:

THE INDIVIDUALS



The IWC GST Perpetual Calendar Moon which I've had almost 15 years



The IWC GST Split-Second with complication developed by Richard Habring





The Bell & Ross (Sinn) Space 4 using ubiquitous 7750 in a clever flush case with recessed crown, and recessed pushers in black rubber to match the strap.





The Seiko Sportura Kinetic Chronograph with its 5 small dials and individual crystals, has a quartz "brain" powered by an energy cell / self-generating rotor, and is topped by a mechanical chrono module.





The Seiko Flight Master Chronograph, an automatic movement with power reserve and column-wheel actuated chronograph, in a titanium case with ceramic bezel.





The watch I was wearing when I started on this comparison - the Seiko Presage Urushi dial also with automatic, column-wheel chronograph movement.





The familiar Zenith P15 with specially-modified, silicon-escapement El Primero and vintage looks





The MIH, a watch people often forget is a chronograph





The GP ww.tc World Timer Chronograph in titanium case





Finally, a vintage Gerald Genta Gefica Safari with 3-part bronze & stainless case.






ANALYSIS

There are obviously a few themes developing here, but there's also a confusing amount of variety. I decided that if I couldn't remember all the details in my head, neither could a reader, so I created a table for some more careful analysis. These are all basically utility or sport watches, not divers or dress models.



Half are powered by the venerable 7750 movement, albeit many with modifications or modules. I see 70% are titanium, which is simply a reflection of my preference for function over beauty. That might also explain why these dials are all black, as watch designers seem to connect the darker tone of titanium with darker dials. Naturally, the hands are bright (white and/or yellow) to better contrast with the dials.

BACK OF EACH WATCH

Let's look at the back sides (I skipped the three with boring solid casebacks)

Bell & Ross leaves a brand on your wrist after a long wearing ...





I need to clean the Seiko Kinetic whose beautifully-decorated movement is not revealed in this photo.



Seiko Flight Master, showing off its column wheel at 12 o'clock in the photo.


Seiko Presage with Urushi dial looks conventional from the back



The Zenith proudly declares our site's motto on the rotor, and shows off its column wheel at 9.


The enigmatic MIH; whose chrono is still running



The Girard-Perregaux is a bit of a yawn from this angle, with a small window and large caseback rim.






Along with this complete variety of windows, movement displays, screw-down versus screw-in casebacks, we can see incredible diversity in the location, shape and style of the crowns and pushers:

CROWNS & PUSHERS 



The GST Perpetual - it has a no-nonsense, screw-down crown and solid pushers




The Split takes the same approach using precisely the same crown and pushers, but also



includes a 3rd pusher at 10 o'clock for the split function control.





The Bell & Ross uses a unique and charming setup, with a baffling recessed crown, and pushers styled to match the case and special rubber strap. 



Here's the crown in full-extended position, and unscrewed.



The Seiko Kinetic adopts an unusual approach to pusher placement, with start/stop on the right of the case, and reset at the left. The crown is where the normal chrono would place the reset button. It takes some concentration to operate this timer. At least the pushers are labeled on the case.





The Flight Master uses the conventional position for its round pushers, but adds "Daytona-like" screw locks on each pusher so a user can assure they cannot be disturbed accidentally.





The Presage has conventional pushers coming out of little shoulders on the case





The Zenith has what I'd call "tower" pushers where the top is larger than the shaft below. (I can see that my watches need a good cleaning!)





Alone in my collection of 10, the MIH makes do with just one solid IWC-like pusher for start/stop/reset. It's in the 2 o'clock position





The GP is the only watch which uses solid rounded rectangle pushers in the 2 and 4 positions, but makes up for that conventionality but adding ...





a second crown at 9 o'clock to control the World Timer inner rotating dial ring.





Gerald Genta's design failed here, as he specified a very small, recessed crown that is virtually unusable. Some variants have brass pushers and crowns, and later watches have much larger and taller steel crowns. 
The pushers are conventional, but ribbed, as if he wanted us to turn them as well as push them. I presume that was for harmony with the shape of the crown.








BRACELETS, STRAPS & BUCKLES



Finally, to finish the analysis we can take a look at the strap/bracelet arrangements. As you can see in the photo above, the Genta uses an unconventional approach to connecting the strap to the case. That assures them that we have to go back to the factory for straps... assuming they are still in business.



IWC's GST series was justly renowned for comfort, strength and convenience in adjustment. Only a pair of toothpicks (or the provided brass tools) was required to adjust or dismantle the bracelet. The locking button never releases accidentally but is easy to operate when you want to take it off.



The Bell & Ross designer(s) did a great job on the factory-design rubber strap and double-butterfly deployant clasp. Too bad you have to cut the rubber to fit, but at least they provided two sets of holes to give a slight amount of adjustment when we grow older and fatter. I bought this strap after I got the watch on a bracelet. The price made me cry, and didn't include the very classy clasp which I located separately.





Here is the original titanium bracelet (ho-hum) for the Bell & Ross, and likewise the original, more stylish bracelet for the Flight Master. Neither have a very impressive clasp.



This is the generic, thick leather strap which I mounted on the Flight Master, as a stop-gap measure for one day. It's now been on there for 13 years!



The Sportura's titanium bracelet and latching buckle are well made and pretty well worn now, after 16-17 years of wearing. It rattles a bit, but it has never come open.


Presage factory deployant works but I would grade it "Fair" as several times it has come unlatched (or it wasn't seated correctly to start with). There should be NO confusion about your strap being secure.





The Zenith came with several straps, but I've only worn it on the NATO and I think the leather strap can go without illustration here. It's the most complex pseudo-NATO strap I've ever encountered, but it's comfortable and works great.



I love the fact that the MIH boys put the latitude and longitude of the museum on the underside of the tab of their buckle:



The GP has the least aesthetically-pleasing strap, because it tapers dramatically to a tiny 16mm pin buckle.





I take it back. The GP is next worst to the GG, which has a proprietary case end, and a cut-off buckle end retained by tiny screws. No adjustment possible - Cut at your own Risk!










CONCLUSION



To describe this batch of watches as "boring - they're all the same, black-dialed chronos" would miss the richness of diversity in construction, materials, movements, functions, appearance and pleasure provided by these ten chronographs. I suspect you have enjoyed the journey if you have read along for this long. I certainly have learned a lot about my watches:

- first they need to be cleaned
- I haven’t removed the clear plastic on Presage’s back
- only one has gone for service
- most are 7750-powered and quite thick
- majority are titanium
- very few have turning bezels
- overall they are strong on performance, weak on looks
- 3 Seiko, 7 Swiss 


Here's a parting view:




Cazalea


Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
BR
Brandon Skinner
May 10, 2018

So far all my watches >$1000 have a black dial so I understand how easy it is to consistently go to the dark side.

JO
jomni1
May 14, 2018

I think it’s the real eye catcher of the lot. Many dials and lots of metal on the watch face. The button configuration is typical of a stop watch as opposed to a wristwatch chronograph.

CA
cazalea
May 15, 2018

This is the same movement but it has an entirely different look/feel. I forgot this in doing the 10-Chrono test ... this makes #11 and a silver/white/champage dial Cazalea

CA
cazalea
May 15, 2018

showing the careful detailing of the case. I like the dial too, and the coloration developing on the lumed numerals.

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