Breguet 3237 Chronograph
Vintage

Breguet 3237 Chronograph "Tuxedo" Onyx Dial Vintage

By amanico · Jun 18, 2024 · 64 replies
amanico
WPS member · Breguet forum
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Amanico's exploration of the Breguet 3237 Chronograph with its distinctive Onyx dial offers a rare glimpse into a highly coveted reference. His detailed photographs and insights highlight why this 1990s timepiece, featuring the renowned Lemania 2310 movement, continues to captivate collectors. This article delves into the unique aesthetic and historical context that make the "Tuxedo" dial 3237 a significant piece in Breguet's modern heritage.

We can objectively say that the 3237 with this Onyx dial is rare. I only saw 4 during all these years, 3 in photos, one in person, which led me to take some photos to share with you. It seems that there is a 5th one hidden in another collection, as well as at least one in yellow gold. 

The 3237 Onyx was issued in 1994 / 1995. Typically Breguet with its " coin " side case, which is 36 mm big, while the next one, ref 5237 was 2 mm bigger. 

3237: 



Isn't that small? I don't think so: 


The best part of this watch is, of course, its dial, silver hand guilloché, with an outer ring made in Onyx. Elegance, strength, class, this combination is just sublime. 


The movement is well known, here, the Lemania 2310 which we find some popular chronographs such as the Patek 5070, the Vacheron les Historiques and / or Malte Chronographs, and if my memory serves me well, in a Roger Dubuis from the same era. 


Class, elegant, rare, refined, this is the kind of watch which gives off some strong feelings when you see it in person. That is exactly why I wanted to share it with you, here. 

A full set shot ( Credit: Philliops )


Best,

Nicolas

About the Breguet Classique Ref. 5237

The Breguet Classique reference 5237 is a chronograph model that integrates a traditional complication within the brand's signature aesthetic. This reference is recognized for its balanced dial layout and the characteristic Breguet hands and numerals, distinguishing it within the Classique collection as a piece focused on horological function and classical design principles. It represents Breguet's approach to chronographs during its production period, offering a refined interpretation of the complication.

This particular reference features an 18k white gold case, measuring 38 mm in diameter. It is equipped with the automatic caliber 502.3, which provides a power reserve of 45 hours. The watch is fitted with a sapphire crystal, ensuring clarity and scratch resistance, and offers a water resistance of 30 meters. The dial is silver, often featuring a guilloché pattern, and is complemented by a leather strap.

For collectors, the 5237 is notable for its use of a Lemania-based movement, a caliber family respected for its robust and serviceable architecture, shared with other significant chronographs from various high-horology brands. This connection positions the 5237 as a piece of interest for those appreciating movements with a notable lineage. It appeals to collectors seeking a classically styled chronograph from Breguet, valuing both its technical foundation and its adherence to established design codes.

Specifications

Caliber
502.3
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
38 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

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The Discussion
BL
Blue and White
Jun 18, 2024

What a stunningly beautiful time piece! Thank you for sharing.

GA
gary_g
Jun 18, 2024

Thank you for sharing. I could see it be an inspiration to the early FPJ perpetual that had a similar football shaped inner dial.

GR
grandesonnerie
Jun 18, 2024

I know they made versions in both either way rare as heck!

BR
Bruno.M1
Jun 18, 2024

Just like so many Breguet

CO
Cocolex
Jun 18, 2024

En or blanc et dans cette finition, c'est tres au gout du jour.. You can clearly see where lots of independent take there inspiration from... Funny that Breguet isn't more popular? But I don't complain about it😉

TH
TheMadDruid
Jun 18, 2024

That was worth the wait. This could be the star of the Breguet sub-forum. You’ve outdone yourself!

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