Complications
SJX provides an in-depth look at Breguet's 2009 Classique Grande Complication 7637, a minute repeater featuring power reserve and day-night indicators. This second part of his Baselworld coverage delves into the watch's re-engineered movement, sparking a discussion about Breguet's approach to traditional complications and movement design. SJX's analysis offers valuable insights into the technical and aesthetic choices behind this grand complication.
This is part II of a look at Breguet’s 2009 collection; click here to see part I.
Breguet’s grandest watch unveiled at Baselworld 2009 was the Classique Grande Complication 7637, a minute repeater with power reserve and day-night indicators. The watch is presented in a large, 42 mm case and utilises a “re-engineered” movement.
The calibre inside is not entirely new, it is an improved version of the long in tooth Lemania cal. 399 minute repeater movement found in the previous incarnation of the Breguet minute repeater. The Lemania cal. 399 is likely based on some vintage repeater calibre, with the design of the bridges and its 18,000 bph escapement being two clues; no one designs movements like that anymore, I cannot think of a minute repeater calibre designed in the past 5 years with such a bridge layout.
From the back the view is interesting for several reasons. The movement has a unique colour scheme; it is almost entirely silver in tone, including the balance wheel. And because the gold gongs match the colour of the case, they are not especially prominent, leaving the movement looking very silver and small in the large case.
The movement is decorated with hand engraving in the usual frilly baroque style. Breguet engraving has always appeared inconsistent to me, sometimes it is delicate and fine of the quality of Vacheron Constantin, and at other times it is not. This watch unfortunately does not sport the quality of work that one would expect for such an expensive watch; the engraved lines and shapes are not clean and consistent.
From what I understand the main change to the movement is solid gold gong. Whatever Breguet may claim it sounds similar to the previous Breguet repeaters – which were sometimes good but mostly sufficient – though this is perhaps louder. The sound is no clearer than before; the buzz of the regulator is still evident.
While I like the look of this repeater, despite its size which makes it look like a pocket watch with lugs, it is not a class-leading product; it is not one of the best sounding or finished repeaters out there. That is strange because Breguet is capable of making terrific products, the La Tradition tourbillon being a good example of a unique, inspired product that is competitively priced (a tourbillon is never cheap).
Another watch unveiled at Baselworld was another watch with aural qualities – the Marine Royale. It is a sports/diver’s alarm watch, in the great tradition of such watches as pioneered by the revered JLC Extreme World Compressor Alarm and other such pedigreed watches – the logic behind such watches is perhaps sound does travel better underwater while vision is impaired.
The Marine Royale is a bizarre combinations of design elements: a sharp, aggressive-looking bezel with a serrated edge, enormous buttons and crowns, combined with a guilloche dial, Breguet hands (even more bizarrely the minute hand has the ‘pomme’ filled with Luminova while the hour hand has the tip filled instead) and a charming but tiny quaver that indicates the alarm. Wow.
To accommodate all that styling the case is 45 mm. And it is heavy because it is available in rose or white gold. Nothing more needs to be said.
- SJX
This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-07-25 08:59:13 This message has been edited by SJX on 2009-07-25 09:00:16The Breguet Classique Grande Complication Minute Repeater reference 7637 represents a significant offering within Breguet's high horology collection, showcasing the brand's expertise in traditional grand complications. This reference is distinguished by its minute repeater mechanism, a highly regarded complication that audibly chimes the time on demand. It is presented in precious metal cases, often featuring grand feu enamel dials, which underscore its position as a sophisticated and technically accomplished timepiece.
This particular reference features a substantial 42 mm case diameter and a height of 12.25 mm, providing a notable presence on the wrist while housing the intricate movement. The movement, visible through a sapphire case back, is a hand-wound caliber, meticulously finished to Breguet's standards. The use of rose gold or white gold for the case, paired with black or blue enamel dials, indicates a focus on classic aesthetics and material quality. A sapphire crystal protects the dial.
For collectors, the 7637 appeals to those who value traditional watchmaking and the artistry of grand complications. Its minute repeater function, combined with the brand's heritage and craftsmanship, makes it a notable piece for serious enthusiasts. The availability of different dial and case material combinations offers variety within the reference, catering to individual preferences for color and precious metal.
The bridges of that repeater movement looks almost identical to repeater movements that were coming out of the Valee de Joux in the early 20th and maybe the 19th centuries. Not exactly a lot of investment by Breguet in a modern design....
Hi Moses, If we admire Breguet for their heritage and successes of the past, which is what has helped them to be still around today, I don't see the logic in finding disappointment in their use of a design which is reminiscent of a century or two ago. For me, their ability to cling to traditional style is an attraction. Otherwise, every improvment is just one step closer to a digital alarm. Kindest regards, Jack This message has been edited by justpen on 2009-07-25 20:18:57
When I wrote it was a statement of fact, rather an opinion on the quality of the piece. Personally I like the bridge design, it has a certain charm to it. One also has to remember the Lemania movement was designed 20 years ago, in an era when practically no one had designed a new repeater movement for decades and hardly anyone was making a repeater movement. For the period it was an achievement. Now the sound of the repeater is another issue, but it has nothing to do with the movement design. -
Hi SJX, Actually, my comments were directed to the post by Moses, not yours. For me, the 7637 has beauty in many areas. For me I see it everywhere in that watch, but in particular in the finish of the movement. Not the hand engraving... I have always had mixed feelings about engraving and watchmaking... as it has almost always been something farmed out to an engraver rather than done by the watch maker himself. Ok today we have in house engravers.... but they are usually engravers and not watchm
I was supporting your point of view, more or less. :-) Thanks for the thoughts and pictures of the infamous Martin Braun. I hope that situation is well on its way to being resolved to your satisfaction? - SJX
You can find vintage repeaters with such movement design that sound extremely good, and I refer to wristwatches not pocket watches. So one can infer that the aesthetic design - I refer to the style of the bridges and not the construction or technical characteristics - has little or no impact on the sound. - SJX
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