Breguet Marine 5517 Gold Bracelet Collection
Collection

Breguet Marine 5517 Gold Bracelet Collection

By jack johnson · Dec 21, 2025 · 30 replies
jack johnson
WPS member · Breguet forum
30 replies1168 views3 photos
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Jack Johnson's journey with his Breguet Marine 5517 in gold highlights a common collector's dilemma: the pursuit of the perfect configuration. His experience, from the financial implications of a separate bracelet purchase to the intricate process of a factory-level strap swap, offers valuable insights into the ownership experience of a luxury sports watch. This article explores the nuances of the Breguet Marine's design and the community's appreciation for its unique appeal.

Love the looks and feel on the wrist.  I made the mistake of buying the watch on the rubber strap and then separately ordering the bracelet - the worst course of action from the financial perspective, of course.  Also, it appears that the gold bracelet comes with fewer links than the titanium one, so had to order some additional links.  

Then, it is quite cumbersome to swap the strap for the bracelet, as these are attached to the watch case using very special screws.  My AD and I decided to send the watch back to the factory for the swap, it took some months but the watch came unscratched, and this was the result worth waiting for.

The fit on my wrist is perfect, and the clasp being very ergonomic, I am not experiencing any additional wrist digging vs my stainless steel bracelet watches.








About the Rolex Ref. 5517

The Rolex Submariner reference 5517 is a rare and specialized variant of the Submariner line, distinguished by its unique dial and bezel configurations. This reference was not a standard production model available to the general public, setting it apart from other Submariner references of its era. Its specific characteristics cater to a particular collecting niche interested in purpose-built timepieces. The 5517 is often associated with a very limited distribution, contributing to its scarcity and distinct identity within the broader Submariner family. It represents a specific chapter in the development of Rolex's professional tool watches.

This reference typically features a stainless steel case, consistent with the robust construction of the Submariner series. The movement is an automatic mechanical caliber, designed for reliability and accuracy. The crystal is made of Plexiglas, a common material for Rolex watches from this period, providing durability and a classic aesthetic. The case dimensions are characteristic of vintage Submariners, offering a balanced presence on the wrist. The watch was engineered for water resistance, a fundamental attribute of the Submariner model.

For collectors, the 5517 holds significant appeal due to its extreme rarity and specific design elements, which differentiate it from more common Submariner references like the 5513. Its limited availability and specialized nature make it a highly sought-after piece for those focusing on unique and historically significant Rolex variants. The distinct dial markings and bezel insert are key identifiers for this reference, making it a focal point for advanced collectors seeking to complete comprehensive Submariner collections. Its place in the lineage of Rolex tool watches is defined by its specific, non-commercial origins.

Specifications

Caliber
1520
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
40mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
200m
Crystal
Plexiglas

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
JL
jlux
Dec 21, 2025

I also feel that the lug design integrates much better with the bracelet as compared with the rubber strap.

HO
hoseachandra
Dec 21, 2025

If money is no object, I would gladly get the White gold on bracelet. The wave pattern is sick.

QU
quattro
Dec 21, 2025

This redesigned Breguet Marine doesn't get much love, especially compared to the previous editions. I must say that I liked the traditionally guilloche dial and nautilus or seashell rotor of the previous editions very much (whereas I like the ship's wheel rotor a little less). But I've always felt that this redesigned edition deserves much more attention and affection than it gets and your photos fully confirm my feeling. The watch looks gorgeous on your wrist and to have a full gold dressy spor

JA
jack johnson
Dec 21, 2025

This bracelet needs to be experienced in person - very masterfully done piece of jewellery with just right amount of polished edges to give it a restrained but a bit sparkling look all at the same time.

JA
jack johnson
Dec 21, 2025

I have just noticed that they have added a new version - blue dial with waves but in RG, that one looks fantastic as well.

JA
jack johnson
Dec 21, 2025

This is my only second full gold watch (that is, with the matching bracelet) as such combos very often may prove to be over the top for socially comfortable wearing. And this Breguet combo being mainly brushed - in my view this makes it actually wearable. My first full gold watch was also off the beated path one - Omega Seamaster 300 (not the Professional 300) in Sedna gold. I have missed it ever since I let it go years ago. Now I am consiering adding Omega Speedmaster 321 in Pt on a PT bracelet

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