Breguet Marine: Custom Finishing vs. New Independent

Spangles - Dr. Tabby · 2018-03-28T14:51:02Z

A collector considers re-finishing his Breguet Marine to haute horlogerie standards instead of buying a new independent watch. Explore the debate on customization, value, and personal satisfaction.

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

45 replies6399 views1 photos

Spangles - Dr. Tabby, deeply enamored with his Breguet Marine, proposes a radical idea: having a skilled watchmaker re-finish its movement to haute horlogerie standards, rather than purchasing a new independent watch he doesn't love. This thought experiment challenges conventional collecting wisdom, prompting a lively debate on originality, personal satisfaction, and the boundaries of watch modification.

Today seemed as good a day as any to have a bad idea. Here's mine: I was thinking of saving up for a really haute horology watch, maybe something like a Voutilainen, let's say. However, there is a small problem (with a dumb solution). The issue is that I haven't fallen in love with any Voutilainen I've seen. They are amazing, but when I think of what to, uh, bespeak, in terms of a design, it really goes back to some watches I already have, such as my Breguet Marine... I love my Marine in a way that is probably illegal in some states. I really like it. ... That leads us to my idea. I know a well trained watchmaker who can black polish and chamfer whatever. He'd be happy to take a moderately well finished watch, like my one of my beloved Breguets, and finsh the hell out of it to (almost) Dufour levels. ... It would look extra swell. No resale value in this, but taking a watch I love and making it extra awesome in a way pretty much only I would care about. For less than the Voutilainen I don't love yet. ... Terrible, right? I am honestly considering it. Further dumb ideas to build on this one await! For now, dear reader, I ask for your comments.

Key Points from the Discussion

Modifying a watch's finishing fundamentally alters the original designer's artistic statement, potentially destroying its resale value and brand identity.
While personalizing a watch is a valid choice, achieving Dufour-level finishing on a Breguet Marine movement by an independent watchmaker is highly improbable, as such expertise is rare and typically reserved for top-tier independents.
It is a worse idea to buy a watch one is not 110% confident in; elevating a beloved, known quantity with a trusted craftsperson can lead to greater happiness, irrespective of resale value concerns.
If the watchmaker is truly exceptional, the modified Breguet could potentially surpass factory finishing, leading to a unique and superior product.
The aesthetic appeal of a watch's shape often outweighs its finishing level for some collectors; unless one frequently inspects the movement with a loupe, the practical difference of enhanced finishing might be minimal.
Breguet might offer bespoke finishing services, which would ensure the highest quality work, maintain market value, and preserve the watch's 'fully original' status.

The Discussion

Onemorewatch

Mar 28, 2018

Why - you spend 95% of the time looking at the front end not the back. Anyway, my suggestion is bide your time, an independent will sing to you one day and that’s the time to pull the trigger

TheMadDruid

Mar 28, 2018

It's yours. If you think you can do something with it to enjoy it even more than you do, you do it. I mean, it's just a thing. We get all dewey-eyed about these watches here but they are just watches-pieces of metals attached to each other-that then tell time. As an aside, I never understood why a "frankenwatch" was considered the sine qua non of evil. As long as you know what you're getting, or what you've done, what's wrong?

Joepny

Mar 28, 2018

Expand your horizons on independents.

5980

Mar 28, 2018

I think the worst idea is forcing a square peg into a round hole (aka buying a piece on which you're not 110%). EVERY, SINGLE time I've stretched for a piece...I've failed 😔 I like your idea of taking a beloved, known quantity and elevating it. Of course this presupposes that you're 110% confident in the craftsperson doing the elevating! At some level - a level which clearly varies among us all - this hobby is about collecting watches which make you happy, irrespective of the broader community's

Spangles - Dr. Tabby

Mar 28, 2018

The loupe will be unto me a friend.

Mike H

Mar 28, 2018

...since you seem to be in unreasonable love with your Marine. It is not my case but who cares ? It is your watch, your taste, and thank God it is not a crime to do what you want with your property. As for me the finishing is of course one of the key points when you talk about a watch from Voutilainen, Laurent Ferrier, or Grönefeld of course but not only : you buy an exclusive piece of watch art made in extremely limited quantity, but also the architecture of the movement is special and not only

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 45 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →

Breguet Marine: Custom Finishing vs. New Independent

Key Points from the Discussion

Continue the conversation

More from this Forum