Collection
Nitediver's acquisition of the Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800 offers a compelling look into a collector's decision-making process when choosing between closely related models. This post highlights the subtle yet significant differences that influence personal preference, even within the same iconic watch family. It underscores the enduring appeal of the Type XX Aéronavale and its place in a diverse collection.
New Arrival – Breguet Type XX Aéronavale Ref. 3800
I have not been active on the forum for a while - moving house with the family kept me more than busy.
Still, I had – and still have – a few watch projects, like all of us I presume. So I went on a business trip with the intention to get this:
Photo credit: Luxury Souq Dubai
However the watch was no longer available with the dealer, but he had this nice and pristine Ref. 3880 Aéronavale, which I have been considering since long. It will joint my Type XX Transatlantique.
Before I acquired this watch many years ago, I got a few opinions from the forum members that the 3800 is the purer version because the dial is without date window. At the time however I looked at the two watches side by side and I fell for the high gloss dial of the Transatlantique and I still like the watch a lot. I bought it on a bracelet but I have been wearing it on a brown croco strap recently.
Through the many great pics posted of the Aéronavale with its beautiful shiny bezel – I remember Hendrik as one of the main contributors right now but there are many more – the idea grew that I should one day own an Aéronavale as well. And here we go:
I am more than happy wearing it pretty much non stop since a week - It just looks great in any situation, regardless of formal or casual.
I absolutely love the shine of the polished bezel.
Best
Stefan
The Patek Philippe reference 3800, introduced in 1981 and available from 1982, represents a significant evolution of the Nautilus line. Positioned as a mid-size alternative to the original reference 3700, it offered a more versatile wearing experience while retaining the distinctive porthole-inspired case design. This reference was notable for being the first Nautilus to feature an in-house automatic movement, marking a shift in Patek Philippe's manufacturing strategy for the model. It was produced until 2006, allowing for a wide array of material and dial variations over its production run.
The case of the reference 3800 measures 37.5 mm in diameter, a reduction from the larger 3700. It was produced in various metals, including stainless steel, yellow gold, rose gold, white gold, and platinum, often paired with integrated bracelets or leather straps. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic caliber 330 SC, which features a central rotor and provides a power reserve of approximately 48 hours. A sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the watch offers water resistance suitable for daily wear.
For collectors, the reference 3800 appeals to those seeking a more understated and wearable Nautilus compared to its larger predecessor. Its long production period resulted in numerous dial configurations, including black, blue, and white, with different hour marker styles. The 3800/1A-001 and 3800/1A-XII are specific stainless steel variants that highlight the model's enduring appeal in its original material. Its status as the first Nautilus with an in-house movement also adds to its historical importance within the brand's catalog.
My absolute favorite Breguet. M4
The question will be, when do wear the Aeronavale and when the Transatlantique... 😉 If the Aeronavale would have steel hands I would have had troubles myself to decide for which to go, but the hands as well as the more structured dial gave the direction towards the latter... Still love it...
The Aeronavale is most definitely a favorite of mine! Enjoy it! Mine says, hello! Cheers, Alex
that is a great find and I think more than compensates for the missed AP! Love the style of the case and dial on the Breguet 3800. Enjoy! CC
well, i love to take that sort of decisions in the morning. I think there are no specific criteria when to wear the Aeronavale or the Transatlantique. Both work well for for leisure or with shirt and suit. So it will be up to whether i fancy a leather strap or bracelet, a steel hands or the tritium markers on the Aeronavale. Stefan
I think that you made a good choice buying the Breguet instead of the AP, that is also very nice. Breguet is something more you won't see so often and... it is Breguet. Best
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