Breguet Vintage Twin Chronographs
Vintage

Breguet Vintage Twin Chronographs

By Alfihar · Mar 28, 2026 · 14 replies
Alfihar
WPS member · Breguet forum
14 replies350 views1 photos
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Alfihar's latest post offers a poignant reflection on the evolution of watch collecting, from the early, often challenging, days of online forums to the collaborative scholarship that defines today's community. He masterfully illustrates how shared passion and deep dives into specific references, like the Breguet Type XX, forge lasting friendships and contribute significantly to horological knowledge. This piece not only celebrates a personal journey but also underscores the enduring value of collective expertise in uncovering the hidden stories of vintage timepieces.

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When I first became passionate about watches, I knew next to nothing about them.

Back then, there was far less literature on watches than there is today.

It was a pioneering era when, to learn more about a watch, you had to post a photo of it, ask a question on a watch forum, and… wait for someone who knew more—or claimed to know more—to deign to answer you…

Sometimes it was great, and it led to intense and enriching exchanges, exciting and enlightening debates over ideas and hypotheses.

Sometimes because the right words hadn’t been used, or because the question had already been asked… this would trigger reactions that I’ve always found curious: we’d get torn apart, humiliated, and ridiculed

It must be said that on certain forums, particularly French-language ones, there was a certain air of elitism… in a way, you had to be part of the “in-the-know” crowd if you didn’t want to get flamed.

It was around that time that I met Jean-François online (known as Jeff33 on other forums and using a different username here…).

A true enthusiast among enthusiasts, always ready to help and exceptionally kind.

When we turned to the memories of older generations of enthusiasts for our study on the Breguet Type XX marine nationale aéronautique navale, Jean-François was one of the first to respond and contribute to the research.

After interacting online for years on watch forums, we finally got together to discuss about the famous Breguet Marine Nationale.

This week, after decades of chatting on forums, we met up in Bordeaux at his watchmaker’s (Brian - GMT Bordeaux), who also services some of my watches. Also present was Ben, a longtime forum member and the co-founder of Roosterwatches.

After a pleasant lunch, we met up at GMT Bordeaux for a busy afternoon exploring the pieces everyone had brought and discussing watches.

Among all the superb pieces that Jean-François still owns, in addition to a magnificent Mathey Tissot Type XX… there was an equally superb Breguet Type XX, whose case back is unfortunately erased…

Watch by Breguet, Type XX

Next to mine… it’s hard to see a difference… thus to make sure you don’t pick up the wrong watch, you need to look at the details…

Admittedly, Jean-François’s watch no longer has its pear-shaped crown… like 70% of the French Naval Aviation Type XX watches…

Admittedly, his watch has a civilian-style graduated bezel…. But it must be said that at the time, these modifications were so common that some forum members claimed (wrongly) back then that the model supplied to the naval aviation had a graduated bezel (probably because the watch they owned had one… they’ll know who they are).

But the dial… what a f…. dial: a hooked “7,” an uncut “10,” and “2” and “4” that are less cut than on dials with a straight “7”… the hallmarks of a Breguet Marine Nationale Aeronautique Navale are all there…. And the patina… so close to the one I was lucky enough to find… to the point of mistaking one watch for the other…

The same goes for the hands: the hour and minute hands appear to be entirely consistent with the model delivered in January 1960, with their characteristic sword-shaped design. The sage-leaf hand on the sub-dial at 3 o’clock is also present… admittedly, the hand on the sub-dial at 9 o’clock and the chronograph hand are civilian hands… but these replacements are common on the naval aviation Breguet type XX… here too, some knowledgeable people said at the time on forums that these were the correct hands…

So I decided to take it a step further and open the erased case back…

The anti-magnetic cover is present… another indication that it could be a French Navy watch…

The Incabloc shock protection is there, as is the Breguet balance spring… So this is not an early model with a hooked “7” on the dial… since those models do not have these features… This is yet another factor pointing to the presence of the iconic Aeronalavle model…

Everything pointed in the same direction… the body of evidence was growing… though nothing was certain…

All that remained was to check for any « Rhabillage » numbers inside the caseback (Those famous numbers that Amanico mentioned in his post about the visit of the Breguet museum and our working meeting with Emmanuel)… sometimes there aren’t any, but in this case… there was indeed one, and it matched those typically found on military Breguet watches…

Of course, we still need to find the same number(s) in the Breguet Military Register to turn near certainty into absolute certainty… but my feeling is that there is a very high probability that Jean-Francois’s watch is a new entry to add to our census…

Life is beautiful after all… True to form, Jean François was always there to help enthusiasts on the forums and was one of the first to lend a hand when we embarked on the project to study the Breguet Type XX for the French Navy with Amanico…

Without realizing it… our friendly meeting and our conversation about our respective watches likely led us to discover a new example…

I was happy to have stumbled upon a potential new example to add to our census.

Jean François couldn’t believe it and was even moved by this discovery…

Throughout my life, passion has always been what drives me, because it has this unique ability to create magical moments—and this was definitely one of them…

Having a great time with other enthusiasts and stumbling upon what might be a rare specimen… is cool, isn’t it ?

Stay tuned… more photos are coming, and… we’ll see how the Registre Breguet turns out…

Best Ø

About the Breguet Type XX Ref. Type XX Aéronautique Navale

The Breguet Type XX holds a storied place in horological history, originating from a specific set of technical requirements, known as the "cahier des charges Type 20," issued by the French Ministry of Defense in the 1950s. These specifications called for robust, legible chronographs with a flyback function, essential for pilots to time successive events without resetting the chronograph to zero. Breguet, alongside other notable manufacturers, produced these instruments for the French Air Force (Armée de l'Air) and Naval Aviation (Aéronautique Navale), establishing a lineage of purpose-built pilot's watches that continues to define the brand's sport watch identity.

This particular example, a vintage Type XX Aéronautique Navale, showcases the distinctive design language and technical prowess of its era. Its bi-compax dial layout, featuring a 30-minute counter and running seconds, prioritizes clarity, while the large Arabic numerals and luminous hands ensure optimal legibility in varying conditions. The tropicalized brown dial, a result of decades of natural aging from its original black, adds a unique character and patina highly prized by collectors. The fluted, bi-directional rotating bezel, pump pushers, and prominent crown are all hallmarks of its military-grade construction, designed for ease of use even with gloves.

As a genuine military-issued chronograph, the Breguet Type XX Aéronautique Navale occupies a significant position in the vintage watch market. Its historical provenance, combined with Breguet's esteemed heritage, makes it a highly sought-after piece among collectors of military watches and aviation chronographs. The rarity of well-preserved examples, particularly those with desirable tropical dials and original components, contributes to its enduring collectibility and strong market value, representing a tangible link to a pivotal era in both aviation and watchmaking.

Specifications

Case
Steel
Diameter
38mm
Dial
Tropical brown

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
QU
quattro
Mar 28, 2026
Thank you for sharing this magical moments.

Fingers crossed for the checking of the registers! Best, Emmanuel

AL
Alfihar
Mar 29, 2026
It is for sure a military dial

A Marine Nationale or à CEV… that’s the question But thanks to the Rhabillage numbers… it could be discovered even with an erased caseback! Best Ø

AM
amanico
Mar 28, 2026
One more! Great news, but I guess our friend is in Heaven, after learning that.

AL
Alfihar
Mar 29, 2026
Yes

He was moved… it must be said that he’s had a lot of Type XXs in his life as a collector

AM
amanico
Mar 29, 2026
I can easily imagine!

DE
Denes_Papp
Mar 28, 2026
Love your dedication to the Type 20

You are right, the best way to learn is listening/reading to people who share your passion. THamks

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