Breitling Superocean Ref. 1004: A Vintage Diver's Enduring Charm
Vintage

Breitling Superocean Ref. 1004: A Vintage Diver's Enduring Charm

By amanico · Oct 23, 2024 · 42 replies
amanico
WPS member · Horological Meandering forum
42 replies10762 views17 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

Amanico's deep dive into the Breitling Superocean Ref. 1004 offers a crucial look at a vintage diver that often stands in the shadow of its contemporaries. This article not only highlights the aesthetic and historical significance of this 1957 reference but also places it within the broader context of 1950s diving watch evolution, making a compelling case for its unique charm and collectibility. His work serves as an essential resource for understanding the early era of professional dive watches.




 
 
You may remember a post I wrote a bit more than one year ago about Diving watches from the 50ies, and if not, here is the link:
 
 
 
 
The question was to know if it was possible to beat this Quartett, or, at least, to upgrade it.
 
The family picture:
 
 
 
 
I sadly lost this Deep Sea Alarm US and the Omega CK 14 755, but I found a few others, and, in 2011, an unexpected watch, the Breitling Superocean Ref 1004.
 
Unexpected, because I started to think that I will never find it!
 
Let me introduce it to you.
 
 

 
This model was born in 1957, as an answer from Breitling to the Blancpain, Rolex / Tudor, and Omega offers in the Diving World, which was pretty unusual for the brand which was better known for their aerian activities,  while we had to wait two more years to see  the JLC Deep Sea Alarm.
 
We can say that the Rolex and the Blancpain are somewhat related, aesthetically speaking.
 
We can also say, and see, that the Superocean shows some similarities with the Omega Seamaster CK 2913 / 14 755 and the later JLC Deep Sea Alarm, but with some proper signs of distinction.
 
Let's say that it shares the same spirit ( thin case, slim  and long lugs, long triangular indexes, black matt dial, a bezel which hung over the case wink, but expresses it in a subtle different way.
 
- The case:
 
With a 38 mm diameter, the Superocean has the same size than its Omega sister, while the JLC Deep Sea Alarm is a tad bigger.
 
The 2 Diving sisters together:
 
 
     
 
 
The case  benefits from some harmonious lines and curves with very nicely integrated and slim lugs.
 
A pleasure for the eyes:
 
 
     
 
 
The crown is signed ( not screwed ), but I wonder if there was not an evolution on this model, like it was the case for the Fifty Fathoms.
 
On my watch which is from 1958, the crown is small, identical to what I saw on several Ref 1004, but, if you pay attention the ad I posted at the top of this post, it obviously also came with a big crown, and I saw several examples which came with this configuration, so I don't know what to think, exactly.
 
 
 
 
It shares a kind of UFO profile which is very close to the Omega and JLC : Thin case ( about 10 millimeters ), smaller case back, bigger bezel, this is just spectacular.
 
 
      
 
 
You can notice the concave bezel and the slightly domed plexy, on the picture above, which makes this watch look so special.
 
I don't remember having seen this kind of bezel on a diving watch,  before.
 
The Superocean has a screw in case back, with, at the centre, the brand's name and model, the Logo, and, all around, the main qualities of the watch: Waterproof 20 ATM - 660 Feet - Automatic - Swiss.
 
 

 
Inside the case back,  no other information than the case  number:
 
 
     
 
 
- The dial:
 
The Soul of this watch, which makes all its charm.
 
The long and thin triangular indexes are something you can also find on the JLC Deep Sea alarm ( the Europe, not the  US version ) or on the Omega, but here, they are much longer, and radium filled ( like on the JLC and Omega, by the way, as we have to keep in mind that it was the " regular " luminous material at this moment.
 
The wording is not too present, just enough, in my opinion, with a superb applied and  stylized " B ".
 
The writings are gilt, as well as the minute indexes.
 
 
The Hour hand reminds me the contemporary Omega CK 2913, as they are both arrow shaped. My hour hand is questionable, though, and the minute hand has to be changed for a correct one.
 
But the detail which tops all, to me, is visible at 3 / 6 / 9 and 12 o' clock: The amazing blend of  long and thin metal indexes and the very nice big round  radium dots.
 
A strong aesthetical signature.
 

      
 
 
  

 

- The movement:
 
 
      
 
 
That is not the strongest virtue of this watch.
 
Here, we have an outsourced movement, referenced B 125, probably an ETA, which has a main quality: its accuracy.
 
 
     
 
 
Two things are not usually seen, actually:
 
* The " floors " construction of the movement, larger at its base, narrower at its top....
 
      
 
 
* The shape of the rotor...
 
Go figure why, but I like a lot its " vampire shape ".
 
More seriously, the rotor embraces the " floors " construction of the movement.
 
More mysterious to me is why Breitling decided to sign the rotor " Transocean " when the dial is signed Superocean...



- General thoughts:
 
Made for a few years ( 4 or 5? ), the Superocean Ref 1004 can be considered as a very rare bird.
 
It is, in my opinion, as appealing and desirable than an Omega Seamaster, even more original than this last one.
 
On the wrist, the Superocean is an immediate love. Despite its modest size, its presence is awesome, and it looks bigger  in the real than in the numbers.


    
 
 
Does it need to be bigger, I don't think so, and I regret a lot to see that the latest Superocean doesn't borrow the strength, the charm, the appeal of its elder sister.
 
As to answer to my first question, which was to know if it was possible to upgrade the theme of the Diving watches from the Fifties, I will say that this last addition is an excellent one, and I now need to find my other Breitling target, a certain Vintage Superocean Chrono, which is basically the same than the Ref 1004, with a bigger case ( 39 mm ), a Venus 175 movement, and 2 white subdials, a Tudor 7922, a Rolex 6536...
 
And to find a manual winding and very exciting Zenith S 58!
 
Then I would be able to say that I happily closed this theme...
 
Looking forward to reading your thoughts and comments,
 
Best to All.
 
Nicolas.
 
PS 1: Disclaimer: The first picture of this post has to be credited to " Breitling Lounge ".

PS 2: The pictures posted above were taken in 2011, when I just received this watch. Since then, and very recently, it has been improved, a bit. 
This message has been edited by amanico on 2016-07-03 23:46:26

About the Omega Ref. CK2913

The Omega CK 2913 is a significant early example from the brand's professional series, distinguished by its robust construction and focus on specific functional requirements. It represents a foundational piece in a lineage of watches designed for demanding environments, emphasizing legibility and durability. This reference is part of a trio of professional tool watches introduced concurrently, each tailored for different specialized applications, and it stands out for its particular design elements that cater to its intended purpose.

This reference typically features a stainless steel case, designed for resilience. It houses a manual-winding mechanical movement, known for its reliability and precision. The watch is fitted with a durable crystal, contributing to its overall robustness. The case dimensions were chosen to provide a substantial presence on the wrist while maintaining wearability, reflecting the practical considerations of its era.

For collectors, the CK 2913 is a highly sought-after reference due to its historical importance within Omega's catalog of purpose-built timepieces. It appeals to those interested in the development of specialized watches and the evolution of design principles focused on utility. Variations within this reference, particularly concerning dial and hand configurations, are points of interest for enthusiasts, highlighting the subtle distinctions that define its different iterations.

Specifications

Caliber
300
Case
Stainless Steel
Diameter
39 mm
Dial
Black
Water Resist.
60 meters
Crystal
Hesalite

Key Points from the Discussion

Advertisement
The Discussion
LE
Le Monde Edmond
Jul 4, 2016

I really love the superocean. It is for me one of the greatest vintage diving watches. I love the shape, the superocean script, the lume and the dial and the shape of the bezel. I had a chance to play with one in May earlier this year and immediately fell in love. Your lucky to own this rare bird! Great report thanks for sharing - best Edmond

BI
Bill
Jul 5, 2016

I am just wondering about the form and function of several dive watch and their evolution to becoming real diving tools. I think of small advance like the big crown which made it easier to set the time possibly wearing gloves or the advances of the crown guards and locking and bidirectional bezel. Or the great advance of Doxa with the no decompression bezel and together with Rolex the Hilium release valve. I would say the late 1950's was the bigenning and the late 1960's was when they produced t

AM
amanico
Jul 5, 2016

I am currently working on an article about these vintage diving watches. There is a lot to say. The birth, the developments, the technical solutions, and some originalities ( alarm / Depthmeter / both, decompression tables and so on ). As for this Breitling Superocean, it is not technically original, but aesthetically interesting. In my opinion, one of the most sensual. All the best, Bill. Nicolas

AM
amanico
Jul 5, 2016

you already have some important ones. Just an extra effort.

VI
VintageAlex (aka AlexKontiki)
Jul 11, 2016

I love the super ocean and the JLC, I love them, now I want them!! Congrats Nico.

HS
hs111
Jul 16, 2016

.. you will remember very well, Once had the opportunity for getting one, but unfortunately let it slip away.. Guess a second .chance is quite unlikely.. Well, you cannot win them all ! Cheers & Best, hs

Advertisement

Continue the conversation

This thread is active on the Horological Meandering forum with 42 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.

Join the Discussion →