Kong's detailed report on Bulgari's watchmaking capabilities, focusing on the Calibro 303, offers an insightful look into the brand's blend of Italian design and Swiss horological expertise. This post is essential for understanding Bulgari's manufacturing prowess and its commitment to producing distinctive timepieces, particularly highlighting the brand's historical journey into watchmaking.
Was thinking of a title like the ' D.C.B.M of BVLGARI '.
Sounds intriguing, perhaps. But what is DCBM?! Sort of a missile (oh...that is ICBM). Partially correct.
This post is about the arsenalof BVLGARI Watchmaking with the DCBM manufacturing capabilities. Please browse through the pictures and steps slowly to find out more.
Enjoy!
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A Brief Introduction about Bulgari
Mr. Sotirio Bulgari (Pic from Bvlgari Site)
The Bulgaris decend from a family of Greek silversmiths. Mr.Sotirio Bulgari, the founder started making silver precious objects in Epirus. Later he moved to Italy. In 1884, he opened his first shop in Sistina, Rome. (This year will be the 125th anniversary for BVLGARI, and as a tribute to the founder, a Sotirio's watch is commemorated. Please click here to view, a model which may appeal to those who prefer without the logo on the bezel.)
With the help of his both sons, Constantino and Giorgio Bulgari, they opened another shop at Condotti in 1905, which is still BVLGARI's current Flagship store. Both sons developed strong interest in jewellery and watches and took over the management of the business from Sotirio.
Bulgari at later part created their own style in jewellery with inspiration from the Italian Renaisance and the 19th century Roman School of goldsmith. They are also well-versed with combining coloured precious stones with diamonds in their design.
From the 70's to 80's, the Bulgaris focused on international expansion. In 1970, they opened the first overseas store at New York, then Paris, Geneva and Monte Carlo.
In 1980's, they launched the BVLGARI BVLGARI watches. Three years later, they started a company, Bulgari Time Neuchatel, to produce Bulgari watches.
This is a surprising point to many who are not awared (including myself, till I read the history) that BVLGARI started watch production before the Perfume business!
In 1984, Giorgio's sons, Paolo and Nicola Bulgari took over as Chairman and Vice Chairman of the company respectively while his nephew, Francesco Trapani is appointed as the CEO.
After which, the new generation began diversifying and ventured into the perfume, accessories (leather goods, silk & eyewears) and hospitality businesses.
As of now, BVLGARI has 264 point of sales worldwide.
BVLGARI - The WatchMaking Line
BVLGARI Watchmaking, combines distinctive Italian style and Swiss expertise. Italian style, not only distinctive, is bold... mixing in an unusual materials and colors for maximum contrast and even use the logo as an intrinsic part of the design, which may seem 'too loud' to some.
The watchmaking line contributes significantly to the total company revenues. From previous and current financial reports, it attributed to about 25% of the company's total revenues, second after the Jewellery line.
To increase its capabilities and independence from the supply-chain, BVLGARI has vertically integrated by acquiring into other companies. The structure of BVLGARI with its powerful supporting arms (situated in close proximity to each other in the Watch Valley) is as shown below :
With these subsidiaries, BVLGARI can launch more ambitious projects as it now has better control of the development and manufacturing of the key components like the movements, dials, casings and bracelets.
Past few months, several posts about the Calibro 303 watches were presented, so this post will be digging a bit deeper into various layers underneath the solid Calibro 303. It will also let the strong arms of BVLGARI to demonstrate their crafts with the Calibro 303 (including the Sincere Watch Edition too).
Enjoy!
** A point to note : The components photographed could be 'rejected parts' use to make these samples, so they do not represent the actual quality of the components used.
1. Dial Manufacturing by Cadrans Design
In 2005, BVLGARI acquired a 50% stake in Cadrans Designs S.A., a Swiss company leader in the creation and production of sophisticated and avant-garde dials for complicated and high-end watches of the most prestigious international watch-making brands.
Now for the Calibro 303's dial is of a multi-level design. It was made up of 3 layers of work as shown.
For easy referencing, I named the 3 layers as L1, L2 and L3.
An overview of the steps and the sub-components to make the dial
For the 16 components of each dial, 119 operations are necessary, involving 20 different steps and employing 8 different materials.
The base material for first layer L1
Vertical bar-like pattern (gadroon) and locator pins pressed in
Various windows were punched out.
Sized down to exact diameter.
Finished with satine soleil treatment
Place on date-window trimming
Another view of the completed L1
Next is a plain piece of the L2... subjected to similar processes of L1 to reach the above final state.
A close look... decorated with vertical imprints and ....
the sub-dial areas were circularly-guilloched. Then it was galvanised to anthracite.
2 sub-dials were then selectively subjected to azure treatment
The result ...
White lettering print
Logo and the second-sub-dial
Black Printing - The Chrono Hour and Minute sub-dials
Notices the holes on the L2 piece, they are for the next step ....
Hand-applying the faceted hour indices (except the date window trim)
After stacking on the L3 (rehaut ring or flange) onto L2, the multi-level dial is fully assembled .
Understand from BVLGARI there are 31 quality control-checks during the production of the dial to ensure superb quality.
Lastly was to place the hands when the dial is mounted onto the movement ....
Second hand and the sword-type hour and minute hands with luminescent applied.
Lastly the hands for the subdials...noticed one of them was coloured differently so as to be of contrast to the sub-dial.
Below is another variation made for the Sincere Haute Horlogerie, a different colour scheme.
The Calibro 303 Sincere Edition
Which model (in term of aesthetic) do you prefer?
2. Case Manufacturing by H. Finger SA
In 2007, Bulgari acquired 100% of H. Finger S.A, a Swiss company specialized in the creation and production of sophisticated cases for complicated and high-end watches of the most prestigious international watchmaking brands.
Understand that the design stage of the 303 case was extremely meticulous and took a long time to complete. This case has 75 different components and produced with 171 steps. Tolerances of the components are extremely tight, controlling at +/- 0.01mm.
An exploded-view of the 303 Case
The 18K white gold bezel...
Highly polished ...
Note the high definition of the recessed alphabet. Understand from BVLGARI, it takes about 7 stamping steps to reach such high definition.
Every edges is beveled!
One unbelievable point is the lugs (round tubular) are welded. No sign of weld line !
From another angle, the weld-joint was nicely done.
The internal (hidden) surface was nicely matt-textured as the external too.
The push-button with vertical anti-slide surfaces! What an attention to details!
A exploded view ....
Besides the chrono-pushbuttons, take note of the strap-pin...should say strap-bar! Solid metal through to the other end of the lug. Also take note, there is a crown protector and the screw-down crown.
A plan view of the components for the case
The case ring to hold the movement ...
the sapphire caseback...
A view from the caseback
The full case (without the strap-bars), tested to water resistance up to 100 metres.
3. Bracelet Manufacturing by Prestige D’Or S.A.
In October 2005, BVLGARI acquired a 51% stake of the Swiss firm Prestige D’Or S.A., leader in the production of steel and precious metals watch straps for high end watches.
The sequence of 106 components arranged in order, before assembly.
I have bracketed 5-links from the left, for easy referencing when viewing the pictures below.
This picture showed the brush-finish on the components, arranged in perpendicularly to each others to create contrast.
I guessed every components was individually hand-held to polish it. So the laborious works before, like deburring of the holes, beveling the edges and brush-finished were not shown.
GG & DR has done a nice piece of work in the Diagono Tourbillon though.
BVLGARI coded this movement as BVL 303, a robust slender integrated chronograph movement with column wheel and vertical clutch. It consists of 303 components and BVLGARI has put in effort to decorate it to Haut de Gamme” finishing.
The exploded view...
The hammer was on the right side...
The Vertical clutch (on the left), ensures non-skipping of the chrono-second during the chronograph's START, STOP and RESET operations.
Glucydur Balance
The column wheel reliably coordinates the start, stop and return to zero functions of the chronograph hands.
BVL 303
A short video clip (8 mins) introducing the firms and the making of Calibro 303 :
Hope you have a better idea of the DCBM capabilities of BVLGARI Watchmaking.
Thanks to Fulvio Manini and Anne Ho for arranging time to take the photos and providing some technical slides and video.
Kong
This message has been edited by Kong on 2012-08-02 00:07:31
Key Points from the Discussion
Bulgari's watchmaking combines distinctive Italian style with Swiss expertise, focusing on bold designs that often incorporate unusual materials and colors for maximum contrast.
The Calibro 303 is praised for its well-priced offering, with investment focused on the case and multi-level dial rather than solely on the movement, which utilizes a refinished FP1185.
The Bulgari-Bulgari bezel design, while iconic, can be a polarizing element for some collectors, with personal preference often dictating comfort with its prominent branding.
Bulgari's history in watch production predates its perfume business, with Bulgari Time Neuchatel established in 1983, a surprising fact for many.
The Sotirio's watch, commemorated for Bulgari's 125th anniversary, appeals to those who prefer designs without the logo on the bezel, showcasing a different aesthetic direction.
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The Discussion
LI
ling5hk
Feb 9, 2009
Eye-opening post, Kong. Thanks a lot. Is the suggested retail price close to that of Chopard's chrono? Regards Ling
WI
willis
Feb 9, 2009
decided on this piece after consulting Dr. Bernard Cheong, and must say now that its doubly gratifying to read about Bulgari's manufacturing processes. Great post!
KO
Kong
Feb 10, 2009
show us more pictures...a wrist-shot. So now you can keep track of 3 timezones Kong
MA
masterspiece
Feb 10, 2009
for the great photos and step by step manufacturing. Both pieces are cool and each has such a unique look. I like the Sincere edition but I also like the way the rose gold subs help offset and accent the look. Aloha, Bob
KO
Kong
Feb 11, 2009
Both look good...depending on mood too... wouldn't it be nice, if there is a secret button, each click it changes to different colour sub-dials Another pic...the straps change the look too. Kong
WI
willis
Feb 11, 2009
Thanks Kong. The decision was between this and the Calibro 303, especially when Dr Bernard has already made such a convincing case for the latter. In the end though I think the Bvlgari-Bvlgari bezel was a little too much for me, and of course there's the small issue of price.... not to mention that for a fat slob like myself - a GMT watch probably makes more sense than a chrono still.
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