Carl F. Bucherer Tokyo Boutique Opening

KIH's detailed report on the Carl F. Bucherer Tokyo Boutique opening offers a fascinating look into the brand's history and strategic expansion. This article provides valuable context on Carl F. Bucherer's journey from a Lucerne retailer to an independent watch manufacturer, highlighting its unique position within the Swiss watch industry.

Carl F. Bucherer Tokyo Boutique Opening

As previously announced in NewsCentral, Carl F. Bucherer Tokyo Boutique was opened in October and there was an event inviting guests – owners and some readers of Chronos Japan. There was a talk show by Mr. Hirota of Chronos Japan mainly about Bucherer's A1000 Caliber and Patravi EvoTec.

1. Brand History – It all started in Lucern

(As many European PuristS might know) Unlike most of the Swiss watch brands, Bucherer started in Lucern. Why Lucern, you may ask. Lucern is a beautiful place with famous old wood corridor on the lake, more touristic place (even I have been there ).

Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened a watch store “Bucherer” in Lucern to n in 1888. The business went well and he and two sons started making watches, in addition to selling watches in 1919. Why a watch store start making its own watches? Because Swiss watch industry was/is centered in Geneva and French parts of the country and Lucern is pretty far from it. The power of guild was/is so strong that products don't come to Lucern as much as desired, and therefore they needed watches to sell – they started making their own watches. The power of the guild also played a role in making Bucherer the largest Rolex retailer in the world. Rolex is the brand which started in London by German and the history made it difficult for Rolex to participate in the watch guild. So, those two non-guild partners shook hands and Bucherer started selling Rolex in 1927.

After the WWII, American soldiers stationed in Europe started staying in Lucern in their vacation – Lucern is, after all, like the “mini-Swiss” which has forest, lake, and mountain, all the elements of what makes Swiss, well, Swiss. They visited the Lucern's best shop Bucherer and bought watches and jewelry as souvenir to the family waiting in the US.

Bucherer became the biggest watch retailer in Swiss (40 stores) and also the watch brand most sold in Swiss in 90s. However, it was becoming more and more difficult to continue making souvenir class watches and higher end watches under the same brand name – Bucherer started the brand “Carl F. Bucherer” in 2001 for the higher-end watches.

2. Introduction speech by Mr. David Vallata, EVP of Sales, Carl F. Bucherer

"Bucherer has almost 125 years of history and it is important that it is still a family-owned company. It is important because it enables us to be more flexible, faster, more aggressive and innovative in watchmaking. We have developed Caliber A1000 which is probably one of the most innovative caliber in the past few decades. Caliber A1000 is designed to go beyond where it is now as a base caliber. We are a young brand (CFB was established in 2001) but we are so happy that we could open Tokyo boutique as one of our first boutiques because we believe that Japanese market appreciates innovative watch products. "

Located on the main street of Ginza, near the "Watch District" of Tokyo



















Big framed photo of Lucern - beautiful place

3. A1000 innovation – Mr. Hirota, Chronos Japan

Mr. Hirota of Chronos Japan

- What is “Carl F. Bucherer”?

Bucherer had been selling lots of watches since 1888 and it saw lots of watches which requires service or repair and they did most of it by themselves (two sons studies watchmaking). So, they learned what is a good watch and what isn't, and what kind of watches consumers want. That was the starting point and they actually started making watches in 1919. And from 1968 to 1976, Bucherer had 15,000 watches certified as Chronometer every year. This number, 15,000 was the top class, following only Rolex and Omega. Also, as mentioned, Bucherer is still a family-owned company, which means that they have ample capital without outside investors. So, Carl F. Bucherer is in the position to make whatever a watchmaker wants to make. For example, Patravi EvoTec is what watchmaker wants to make – practical, highly legible, and very durable.

- A1002 caliber (A1000 with Power Reserve)

Peripheral rotor

Three supporters with shock absorber - innovative, rotor being around the movement is not new idea. Micro rotor makes the balance wheel smaller, less accurate. Patek, Citizen couldn't do it well. Rotor was not shock absorber. Movement has flat surface and modules can be added. Black supporters are DLC Diamond Like Carbon. Very durable. Carbon surface becomes smoother as it is used.

- CDAS (Central Dual Adjusting System)

The weakness of normal regulator is its weakness to the shock because the stud head tends to be heavy and shock can jump the stud. CDAS has screwed down the stud to avoid such jump and at the same time still makes it easy and simple to regulate.

- Day/Date and Power Reserve meter

The positions of Day/Date is the result of the efficient use of the space on the dial side of the movement.

- Size and comfort

Hour, minute, second, day, date, power reserve – the watch must be big for legibility but EvoTec is very well designed so that it is comfortable to wear. The lug is bent down, the strap is thick on the watch side to distribute the weight beyond the watch, and made bottom heavy by making the case trapezoid. This is not small nor light, but comfortable to wear.

- Last secret

Bucherer is the largest retailer franchise of Swiss and thus most powerful and influential. Many good parts suppliers are now owned by big groups such as Swatch and Richemont, but they have no choice but complying Bucherer's request to use the best suppliers in Swiss. Otherwise Bucherer could take away their brands from the stores. So, this is the last secret of why Bucherer can be a very good high-end watch brand. Still a young brand, but CFB is very serious about watchmaking and the future of this brand can be bright. But you have to wear and try it on in order to know whether you feel comfortable or not.

4. Watches on display

4. In my humble opinion ...

I agree that there are lots of good aspects with this brand and the future can be bright. There are, however, still shortcomings as it is still a young brand. I have to remind you that Marcus did a great review on Patravi EvoTec a few months ago ( home.watchprosite.com =) and I went back to the boutique to see if those shortcomings Marcus pointed out has been rectified. And I found that the answer was unfortunately “not yet”. It is wonderful that they have opened the boutique in Japan and they are making a good marketing effort. Mr. Hirota presented all the good and valid points – design concept, new movement with innovative ideas, bargaining power with the best parts suppliers,etc. And I hope and expect them to pay more attention to the details and finishing in the near future. I believe this brand does have potential. I should come back again to follow the progress.

Thank you for reading.

Special thanks to:

Mr. Vallata and CFB team for hospitality.
Hirota-san of Chronos Japan, as always.

Best,

Ken