The Calibre Chronograph was unveiled a few weeks before the SIHH 2013 and it is not a coincidence. This watch is in my opinion the most important of the new Cartier collection yet very complete and made of several spectacular timepieces. The objective of the Calibre Chronograph, obviously, is not the same as that of the Mysterious Double Tourbillon but it is even more strategic for Cartier: it is to position the brand in a credible and sustainable manner in the segment of automatic in-house Chronographs whose entry level price is located below the 10.000 euros threshold. It's an important segment because of it has a big volume of sales, because it doesn't have any real geographical limitation and because it is very prestigious. We can find inside some very famous watches like the Rolex Daytona. Cartier didn't have the right to make any mistake and took every chance to succeed.
This is not the first time that Cartier proposes an in-house chronograph movement in the context of the Calibre case since the Calibre Central Chronograph was introduced in 2010. However, it is a watch of the high-end segment with a very special movement which allows to view the minutes of the chronograph in an original and perfectly integrated way on the dial. The Calibre Chronograph does not have the same ambition of originality and its price is more affordable. The fact remains that it is a very accomplished watch as evidenced by the use of an automatic movement which was specifically developed for this purpose.
I've always considered the Chronograph as an ideal complication for the Calibre case. This last is not lacking in character given its thickness, its flange, the shape of the bezel and lugs but it manages to keep a dose of refinement and elegance thanks to multiple details which soften it aesthetically speaking. It embodies more a sport-chic style and this is the reason why the chronograph which requires to redesign the lay-out of the dial and to integrate additional pushers seems to me a suitable complication. The roadmap seemed easy because the Calibre Automatic three hands watch already had strong arguments favouring the integration of the complication. We all know however that the passage from a simple watch to a chronograph watch is never easy, a sucessful design being always a fragile balance.
Cartier succeeded in its objective taking the Calibre Automatic codes to create a kind of continuity while providing details that define the identity of the Calibre Chronograph: a very subtle alchemy.
The case keeps its 42 mm diameter that is large enough since the pushers add volume while being very nicely integrated. The flange remains the same and the details of the dial keep the same atmosphere than with the three hand watch: the oversized XII which is clearly visible on top of the dial, the Roman numerals of the upper part replaced by indexes in the lower part, the circular guillochage of the outlying area without forgetting the enlarged date window. All these elements are finished with care and give to the Calibre Chronograph a certain degree of sophistication.
The presence of the two sub-dials obliged Cartier to review its dial and move the date window now at 6 o'clock. But the most important change is the move of the scale from the dial to the bezel. This change has two virtues. The first is to make the dial "breathe better" and to make the figures and the index closer to the bezel to have more space to insert the sub-dials. The second is to bring the touch of style and of daring to a watch that would have seemed otherwise perhaps too faithful to the three hands version.
The result is surprising because this engraved bezel gives almost a precious dimension to the Calibre Chronograph , which becomes more conspicuous than the Calibre Automatic. Obviously, to avoid an indigestible aesthetic effect, Cartier made the wise choice to remove any intermediate scale. Despite a movement frequency of 4 Hz which would have allowed to indicate the measured time with a precision of 1/8th of a second, the Calibre Chronograph proposes only the seconds display. Is it so problematic? Not for me because I never use these intermediate graduations and I prefer a sleeker bezel. In addition, the difference in height between the second hand and the scale would have made the reading of the fractions of a second very delicate.The choice to do it without is the best in my point of view.
The designers also worked to reduce the perception of difference between the own diameter of movement (26, 18 mm) and case (42 mm). The size of the figures and indexes as well as the guilloché part mitigate the slight unbalance due to the two sub-dials position close to the centre.
The 1904-CH movement is used for the first time in the Calibre context. Its size lets imagine that it will be used inside other watches with more contained diameters. Cartier worked primarily on the regularity of the behavior of the movement through the use of two barrels to achieve a more stable torque throughout the power reserve. The choice to focus on the torque rather than on the power reserve makes the latter a little short in the context of a contemporary movement (48 hours). However, the vocation of the Calibre Chronograph, with its 100 metres waterproofness is to be a relatively versatile watch which can be worn during weekdays and the weekend. The need for a longer power reserve becomes less noticeable.
We find in the 1904-CH movement a precise setting system through the C-shaped index pointer and a ceramic ball bearing system at the center of the rotor for better reliability. The clever conception of the movement can be also perceived through the use of a linear return-to-zero hammer.
An openwork on the upper bridge allows to observe the column wheel. This openwork is welcome because the movement, despite a neat finish, is not frankly speaking spectacular. I think that Cartier, and it is very respectable, is concentrated almost exclusively in the technical aspect. It is reassuring for the client and this indicates a long-term strategy: anything that can lead to an improvement in performance, reliability is a priority. However, Cartier should not forget the perceived quality that is nearly as important in the eyes of customers than the actual quality. Cartier would find interest from my point of view to make more attractive the aesthetics of the movements so that they become a little more demonstrative than they are. Thus, a less sad rotor would be a good improvement. It doesn't create a big contrast with the bridges and the movement plate. The Côtes de Genève finishings are pretty dull. If the decorative finishings reach the level of the technical finishings, it would be perfect. It would also add more value to this watch contents that are by the way beyond reproach.
The Calibre Chronograph is a very attractive watch once in the wrist: firstly, the charm of the case plays its role even if its relative thickness may surprise. Then it's the subtlety of the dial that catches the eye. It manages to combine originality (the Roman numerals on the top and the index on the bottom, the date window), daring (the date window size) and classicism (the sub-dials cerclages and the guillochage part). Despite a relatively large volume, the Calibre Chronograph still conveys a feeling of refinement which is strengthened by the observation of the case side. I find that the faceted blue synthetic spinel which adorns the crown marries well with the two pushers and contributes to the identity of the watch. All the data are very readable even on the sub-dials. On the other hand, a little surprisingly, Cartier made the choice to maintain the hours counter in a configuration with two sub-dials only. You have understood it, the watch has no permanent second hand what can disturb. Lovers of animated watches will then turn on the chronograph without stopping it. Finally, like Calibre Automatic, the Calibre Chronograph is worn with comfort thanks to the shape of the lugs and the effective position of the case on the wrist.
Even if it is not exempt from reproach, the Calibre Chronograph presents a very positive assessment. Thanks to its new movement, to its versatility and to some aesthetical details, it is well armed to face the tough competition in its segment. The number of references already available (steel, pink gold, two-tones, leather or metal bracelet) is the proof that Cartier has a lot of expectations with this watch.
Thanks to the Cartier team for its warm welcome during the SIHH 2013.
Pros:
- a convincing chronograph evolution of the 3 hands Calibre Automatic
- the daring style brought by the bezel
- the clever conception of the movement
- the dial and case finishings
Cons:
- the decorative finishings of the movement
- no permanent second hand
Fr.Xavier
