Chopard L.U.C All-in-One & Heritage Grand Cru
Complications

Chopard L.U.C All-in-One & Heritage Grand Cru

By KIH · Mar 23, 2018 · 11 replies
KIH
WPS member · Chopard forum
11 replies4011 views58 photos
f 𝕏 in 💬 🔗

KIH's detailed report from BaselWorld 2018 showcases Chopard's L.U.C All-in-One and L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru, offering a rare glimpse into the brand's haute horlogerie capabilities. This article highlights Chopard's commitment to in-house manufacturing and traditional craftsmanship, making these complicated pieces relevant for collectors interested in technical mastery and exquisite finishing.


L.U.C All-in-One
A pinnacle of expertise and elegance


The refined, exclusive and ultra-complicated new L.U.C All-in-One from Chopard encompasses 14 indications on its two faces, including extensive calendar and astronomical functions, as well as a tourbillon. It is issued in two limited series of 10 in platinum and 10 in 18-carat rose gold, all bearing the Poinçon de Genève. It smoothlessly combines extreme complexity with the assured and distinctive elegance of the L.U.C collection. A watch endowed with refined details and colours, the L.U.C All-in-One embodies the peak of Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing, a distillation of exclusive craftsmanship.

Designed for contemporary gentlemen, sure of their taste and fascinated by exceptional mechanisms, the L.U.C All-in-One is a symbol of Fine Watchmaking for the Maison Chopard. This grand complication watch subtly proclaims its horological sophistication on both sides and throughout the entire seven days of its exceptional power reserve. Entirely crafted in the Chopard Haute Horlogerie workshops, this tourbillon watch with perpetual calendar and astronomical indications comes in two 10-piece limited series. One has a platinum case framing a grey blue dial, while the face of the other is graced with subtle shades of verdigris.


The unique details of a distinguished timepiece
Launched in 2010 to honour Chopard’s 150th anniversary, the L.U.C All-in-One is equipped with L.U.C Calibre 05.01-L. With its 516 components, this movement comprises the largest number of complications ever offered within a single L.U.C watch. Its 14 indications spread between its twin faces sum up the broad range of skills mastered by Chopard Manufacture: from development to the production of each element composing the watch: and from gold smelting to component finishing meeting with the stringent Poinçon de Genève criteria. The L.U.C All-in-One demonstrates Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele’s deep-felt attachment for an in-house, family-run approach to watch manufacturing that is certified, accurate and respectful of the most refined rules of craftsmanship.

The L.U.C All-in-One is graced with exceptional finishing throughout. The 46 mm case with its polished and satin-brushed surfaces is extremely ergonomic and thus makes a perfect fit on the wrist. All the case-back inscriptions are hand-engraved. The dial is a solid gold plate with a guilloché motif radiating out from the large date at 12 o’clock. It is then coloured in grey blue to match platinum, and in verdigris for a bold combination with 18-carat rose gold. Even more meticulous concern for detail has been lavished on the 516 movement components, hand-crafted in accordance with the noblest traditional techniques.


Distinctive ergonomics
The ergonomic and horological quality of the L.U.C All-in-One is also apparent in the legibility of its numerous complication. Each sector, indicator and gauge is perfectly sized. All clearly and generously display their respective information on exceptionally finely crafted dials. On the front side, the perpetual calendar with large date display appears through large apertures and subdials, alongside a magnificently wrought tourbillon. On the back, the equation of time, power reserve and sunrise and sunset times frame the orbital moon-phase indication. The latter is a horological signature of the L.U.C collection, alongside its uncompromising commitment to quality. Finally, the L.U.C. All-in-One is fitted with a brown or blue alligator leather strap complete with alligator lining, setting the perfect finishing touch to a unique watch.

Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed in-house at the group's Meyrin (near Geneva) and Fleurier production sites (near Neuchâtel). Movement development, finished product design, gold smelting, stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; as well as traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and applied to the making of each watch in the L.U.C collection.











Technical Details
L.U.C All in One
18-carat rose gold limited edition of 10









Case:
18-carat rose gold
Diameter 46.00 mm
Thickness 18.50 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Polished bezel and case-back, hand-engraved case-back
Exhibition case-back with fitted glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement:
Mechanical hand-wound L.U.C 05.01-L
Number of components 516
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 11.75 mm
Number of jewels 42 
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Four barrels – Quattro technology
Power reserve approx. 170 hours (7 days)
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands:
Hand-guilloché dial in a verdigris colour obtained by galvanic treatment
Black and red transfers
Snailed hollowed counters
Gilded hour-markers
Snailed silver-toned exterior
Gilded Dauphine fusée-type hands for the hours and minutes
Gilded baton-type hands for small second display, perpetual calendar, equation of time
and 24-hour day/night indication
Red hands for the power reserve and the sunrise and sunset indications

Functions:

Dial side
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds on a tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with 24h indication and day of the week indication at 9 o’clock
Display of the month and leap year at 3 o’clock
Aperture-type large date display at 12 o’clock


Movement side
Display of the equation of time, power reserve, 24-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times set to Geneva and astronomical orbital moon phase





Strap and buckle:
Hand-stitched brown alligator leather with brown alligator leather lining
Polished 18-carat rose gold folding clasp

Ref. 161925-5002 – in 18-carat rose gold with alligator leather strap
10-piece limited edition
 


Technical Details
L.U.C All in One
Platinum limited edition of 10










Case:
950 platinum
Diameter 46.00 mm
Thickness 18.50 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
18-carat white gold crown with L.U.C logo 8.50 mm
Vertical satin-brushed case middle
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Polished bezel and case-back, hand-engraved case-back
Exhibition case-back with fitted glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement:
Mechanical hand-wound L.U.C 05.01-L
Number of components 516
Total diameter 33.00 mm
Thickness 11.75 mm
Number of jewels 42 
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Four barrels – Quattro technology
Power reserve approx. 170 hours (7 days)
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Poinçon de Genève

Dial and hands:
Hand-guilloché dial in a grey-blue colour obtained by galvanic treatment
Black, white and red transfers
Snailed hollowed counters
Snailed silver-toned exterior
Rhodium-plated hour-markers
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hands for the hours and minutes
Rhodium-plated baton-type hands for the small second display, perpetual calendar, equation of time and 24-hour day/night indication
Red hands for the power reserve and the sunrise and sunset indications

Functions:

Dial side
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds on a tourbillon at 6 o’clock
Perpetual calendar with 24h indication and day of the week indication at 9 o’clock
Display of the month and leap year at 3 o’clock
Aperture-type large date display at 12 o’clock


Movement side
Display of the equation of time, power reserve, 24-hour day/night indication, sunrise and sunset times set to Geneva and astronomical orbital moon phase

Strap and buckle:
Hand-stitched blue alligator leather with brown alligator leather lining
Polished 18-carat white gold folding clasp

Ref. 161925-9003 – in platinum with alligator leather strap
10-piece limited edition


Making of..






























========================================================================================================


L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru
A new barrel-shaped chronometer
A concentrate of passions











Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president, Chopard, has a number of passions that include great vintages and notably the artistic and aesthetic aspects of wine-making.  In 1997, he took up the challenge of developing a barrel-shaped movement without making any technical compromises. In 2018, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru appears adorned with 3.05 carats of baguette-cut diamonds. The Maison Chopard offers a 18-carat white gold version of its ‘shaped’ chronometer, its sensual curves beautifully accentuated by the sparkle of precious stones. The ultra-thin, gracefully curved and outstandingly elegant L.U.C. Heritage Grand Cru is designed like an exceptional wine, drawing on Chopard’s finest watchmaking expertise. It is intended for people who appreciate beautiful objects, great wines and the rarest diamonds.

The elegance of a great vintage
Elegance stems from supreme refinement, a perfect match between form and function. This lofty standard reflected in the cambered design of the L.U.C Heritage Grand Gru makes it a watch that smoothly embraces the wrist. It was indeed conceived by Chopard co-president Karl-Friedrich Scheufele like a great vintage wine embodying the finest Chopard expertise. Following on from the 18-carat rose gold version of the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru introduced in 2017, Chopard has created a precious interpretation featuring a glittering match between 18-carat white gold and baguette-cut diamonds. Its understated dial, its proportions and its noble finishing contribute to a heady charm sure to delight modern-day aesthetes. The tonneau or barrel shape calls for particular mastery in the watchmaking field. Cleverly juxtaposing a rectangle and a circle, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Gru has the strength the former, softened by the gentle roundness of the latter and accentuated by a smooth curved line of 40 baguette-cut diamonds. Its shape is reminiscent of the best oak barrels derived from the forests of Bertrange, Jupille and Tronçais, which transform a great vintage into an exceptional wine. Its cambered sapphire crystal and case endow it with authentic sensuality, enhanced by its extreme slenderness at just 7.74 mm thick. 

Respect for fine craftsmanship
The L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru pays tribute to the pocket watches that forged the reputation of the Maison founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860, thereby bearing genuine historical and emotional significance for Chopard. Its black lacquered dial is punctuated by white Roman numerals and its railway-type minutes track running around the rim confers a sense of nuance and aesthetic equilibrium. The perfectly balanced proportions of this watch face ensure a pleasing sense of plenitude. Proudly bearing the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark, this chronometer symbolises the respect for horological craftsmanship cultivated by the Maison Chopard. 







Certified excellence
The slenderness of the case reflects that of Calibre 97.01-L, measuring just 3.3 mm thick and one of the very few ‘shaped’ movements housed in a ‘shaped’ case. It features the most sophisticated finishing techniques cultivated by the Manufacture: the bevelling, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève motif all meet the stringent demands of the ‘Poinçon de Genève’ quality hallmark. Automatic winding is handled by a finely engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor. In accordance with the strategic choices made by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) has certified the rate of all the calibres equipping the L.U. Heritage Grand Cru models. Elegance is also a commitment to technical and aesthetic excellence – a quality inherent in all watches from the L.U.C collection.

Chopard’s in-house approach to watch manufacturing
Chopard is a family Maison with a strongly ingrained philosophy of independence. The steps involved in making L.U.C watches are all performed in-house at the group's Meyrin (near Geneva) and Fleurier production sites (near Neuchâtel). Movement development, finished product design, gold smelting, stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; as well as traditional hand-crafted finishes, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, adjustments and quality controls: such is the comprehensive range of watch production operations fully mastered by Chopard and applied to the making of each watch in the L.U.C collection.








Technical details
L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru in 18-carat white gold








Case:
18-carat white gold
Dimensions 38.5 x 38.8 mm
Thickness 7.74 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
18-carat white gold crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
Cambered vertical satin-brushed case middle
Bezel set with 40 baguette-cut diamonds (3.05 carats)
Exhibition case-back
Cambered glareproofed sapphire crystal

Movement:
Mechanical movement with automatic winding L.U.C 97.01-L
Winding by a 22-carat gold micro-rotor
Number of components 197
Total diameter 28.15 x 27.60 mm
Thickness 3.30 mm
Number of jewels 29 
Frequency 28 800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 65 hours
Two barrels – Twin Technology
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Swan’s neck regulator
Balance-spring with Phillips terminal curve
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
“Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark

Dial and hands:
Black lacquered dial with white transferes
Finely snailed 6 o’clock subdial
Rhodium-plated Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
Rhodium-plated baton-shaped small seconds hand at 6 o’clock
Railway-type minutes track

Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds display at 6 o’clock
Date display at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle: 
Hand-sewn black alligator leather strap, alligator leather lining
18-carat white gold polished pin buckle

Ref. 172296-1001 – in 18-carat white gold with an alligator leather strap


Making of...






















About the Chopard L.U.C Ref. L.U.C1860

The L.U.C 1860 reference is a notable offering within the L.U.C collection, distinguished by its focus on classical watchmaking principles and refined aesthetics. This particular model, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023, represents a continuation of Chopard's commitment to high horology, emphasizing traditional craftsmanship and a discreet presentation. It is recognized for its balanced proportions and the integration of a finely finished movement, reflecting the brand's in-house manufacturing capabilities.

This reference features a case crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy, measuring 36.5 mm in diameter. The watch is powered by the L.U.C 96.01-L automatic movement, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. The dial is presented in a salmon color, complemented by a sapphire crystal on the front.

Appealing to collectors who value understated design and mechanical integrity, the L.U.C 1860 fits into the brand's lineup as a dress watch with significant horological merit. Its limited production and specific material choices contribute to its appeal among enthusiasts seeking a watch that combines traditional watchmaking with contemporary material science. The model is a testament to Chopard's ongoing development in its L.U.C range.

Specifications

Caliber
L.U.C 96.01-L
Case
Lucent Steel
Diameter
36.5mm
Dial
Salmon
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
VM
VMM
Mar 24, 2018

Very nice movements. Easier to appreciate them with this highly detailed reviews. Thanks for sharing. Vte

PI
piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1)
Mar 24, 2018

For 10 lucky collectors. I'm always struck by the beauty of a micro-rotor, even more when it's housed in a tonneau case.

KI
KIH
Mar 24, 2018

All-in-One is something to drool about. As good as, if not better than, competitions. Maybe tad big, though. I haven't tried, so I wouldn't know )

P.
p.boxster
Mar 30, 2018

... I was really impressed and could wear it even with my small wrist:

KI
KIH
Mar 30, 2018

Indeed, it looks quite fitting your wrist. I must try it on, too! Thanks for sharing! Ken

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