Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph Titanium Review

amanico · 2024-02-21T10:05:10Z

Explore the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph in Titanium. Amanico's review and collector insights on its movement, design, and wearability.

amanico

WPS member · Chopard forum

42 replies11887 views4 photos

Amanico, a distinguished voice in the WatchProSite community, offers an insightful look at the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph in Titanium. His detailed analysis delves into the watch's technical prowess, aesthetic choices, and the unique challenges of combining a perpetual calendar with a chronograph in a manual-winding movement. This article explores why this reference, despite its impressive specifications, sparks a lively debate among collectors regarding its design and wearability.

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The combination of a chronograph and a perpetual chronograph is one of the classiest I know.

Chopard has its own interpretation of such a classic, with several versions, in gold, in platinum and... In Titanium. This is the last one we'll see, here.

The L.U.C Perpetual Chronograph in platinum was unveiled in 2021, in a limited edition of 20 pieces. It is one of these rare perpetual calendar chronographs which come with a manual winding movement, the Cal LUC 03.10-L, which offers a good power reserve of 60 hours, beats at the pace of 28, 800 vibrations per hour. It is a relatively big movement with a diameter of 33 mm, and a thick one, with a height of 8, 32 mm.

These proportions have their importance: With such a diameter, Chopard could have gone for a smaller case ( 42 or 43 mm would have been perfect, in my opinion ), but a thinner one with such a movement height?

The benefit of a smaller case? The movement would have been less " lost " in the case. It would have been more harmonious. Same for a tad thinner case, which is 15, 06 mm, here. I would say that 2 or 3 mm less would have not been too tough to get... But the big advantage is the legibility, here.

This is the major flaw of this watch. For the rest, it is sublime.

The Chronograph has the flyback function, and offers the possibility to measure the minutes and the hours ( 12 hours ).

The case is made in titanium grade 5, polished and brushed, which literally catches the light. With its short curved lugs, despite the generous size, it is not too difficult to wear it. My 17 cm wrist can easily afford it. And this is a comfortable and light metal. Good point.

The movement has all the LUC Chopard standards, with a double certification ( COSC and Poinçon de Genève ). It is not only a Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, it is ALSO a Chronometer, and the level of finishings and decoration is very high, with the traditional techniques such as perlage, anglages, with beveled countersinks. This is a movement we well know, here, as the base was used for our PuristS Edition Chronograph.

A photo I could take:

The perpetual calendar is complete, with the day, the date, the months, the leap years, the day and night indicator and the moonphase.

The dial? Eye catching. The plate is in white gold, receiving a hand guilloché " soleillé " in a sublime anthracite hue. The rhodium plated arrow shaped indices are superb, too. And I am a big fan of these " Fusée " hands. I still don't understand why these hands have some luminova, though.

At a bit more than 80, 000 Euros, it is not a cheap watch, for sure, but almost a bargain, compared to the two stars of the category, from Patek or Vacheron.

Looking forward to reading your comments and thoughts,

Best.

Nicolas

Key Points from the Discussion

The 45mm case and 15mm thickness, while substantial, are considered appropriate given the movement's dimensions, though some find it large compared to other chronographs. The movement finishing, particularly the multi-faceted bevels on internal corners, is noted as exceptionally refined for Chopard.
The integration of the leap year and day/night indicators within the chronograph subdials compromises dial aesthetics and legibility, making it less intuitive. The movement appears undersized for the case, and the wide bridges create a 'smashed wires' visual effect on the reverse side.
The 45mm case size is a significant barrier for many collectors, with the standard 43mm perpetual calendar already pushing wearability limits. A smaller case (40-41mm) in titanium with a brighter or gloss black dial, potentially at a lower price point, would have been a more compelling offering.
Chopard's L.U.C line, with features like a Variner balance and Breguet overcoil, is often underappreciated despite producing exceptional haute horology pieces for nearly three decades. Early references like the 1.96 from 1996 are beginning to gain recognition and appreciate in value.
Chopard has the potential to compete with brands like Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, but inconsistent sizing, particularly with larger cases, represents a missed opportunity to level the playing field.
For perpetual calendar chronographs, the Patek Philippe Ref. 3970 is cited as having perfect proportions, while the Ref. 5270 is preferred for its cleaner, more legible dial and larger month/day display windows.

The Discussion

GWIS

Feb 21, 2024

That looks a great watch - a complete package. And titanium is an interesting choice for the case of such a watch. All the best, Jon

Derreck

Feb 21, 2024

Thanks Nico, I didn’t know of this reference, +1 on case size, though with all those sub dials legibility would be too hard, maybe they could made a bigger circumference movement, that would be more harmonious, but either way it’s a great watch.

ZSHSZ

Feb 21, 2024

Now in my humble opinion, it’s not something I would spend the asking price for multiple reasons. On the dial side, the leap year and the day/night indicating rings are forced in the chronograph sundials so the overall esthetics of the dial are compromised, at the first glance it’s not intuitive, which kills it for me from the get go. On the reverse side, it’s clear that the movement it’s too small, and while appealing to the eyes, the bridges are a bit too wide it gives the appearance of a smas

keks

Feb 21, 2024

To me an opportunity that could have been grand. Size at 45 makes it tough for most of us mortals, the standard perpetual at 43 is already stretching it in my opinion. Love titanium but wish they would have dated a bit more on the dial. Gray is quite elegant but makes the watch a bit “regular”, particularly at that price point. So, a perpetual chrono at 40-41mm in titanium with a brighter dial or gloss black dial and retail pricing at 30-35% less perhaps… perhaps a big ask but just my 5c worth o

ZSHSZ

Feb 21, 2024

It’s not easy to find space to display so much information, my preference goes to Patek(5270), Vacheron(Malte Perpetual) with the little number displayed separately.

KCLQMULKU

Feb 21, 2024

Such a magnificent timepiece and in such an interesting choice of metal. Not sure about the strap though... 😕

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