Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T BaselWorld 2013

Kong · 2013-04-25T08:54:47Z

Discover the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual T, a BaselWorld 2013 highlight featuring a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and 9-day power reserve.

Kong

WPS member · Chopard forum

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Kong presents Chopard's L.U.C Perpetual T, a highlight from BaselWorld 2013, showcasing its blend of high horology and functional design. This article details how Chopard integrates a tourbillon with an exceptionally legible perpetual calendar, emphasizing the watch's technical mastery and aesthetic refinement. Kong's overview positions the Perpetual T as a distinguished timepiece designed for daily wear, despite its complex complications.

The new pinnacle of the L.U.C. range, the Perpetual T is the epitome of Fine Watchmaking according to Chopard. The nobility of its horological complications and the superlative refinement of its decorations, together with its discreet sophistication, sum up the highest standards integral to the legacy of Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Its tourbillon rubs shoulders with an extremely readable perpetual calendar in a watch characterised by its elaborate aesthetic appeal. Chronometer-certified for precision and bearing the Poinçon de Genève for the quality of its craftsmanship, the Perpetual T is more than a mere demonstration of watchmaking mastery. It is a distinguished and functional watch designed for daily living.

With the L.U.C Perpetual T, Chopard presents one of the most prestigious combinations in watchmaking. The perpetual calendar and the tourbillon along with more than one-week of operating autonomy, cement this new timepiece firmly among the horological aristocracy. In watchmaking, such nobility is acquired by a mastery of technical complexity allied with a dedication to achieving a supremely satisfying aesthetic effect.

A perpetual calendar offering optimal readability

Making a perpetual calendar involves both technical and ergonomic issues. Displaying the complete date while taking account of the variable lengths of months, including in leap years, is a constant challenge ably met by L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L. Moreover, the multiple indications on the dial of such models can be detrimental to their readability and a strategic layout is crucial to legibility.

The Perpetual T brings the date to the foreground in the shape of a large twin-aperture date display. At 9 o’clock, the day of the week takes precedence over a day/night indication; while the months share the 3 o’clock space with the leap-year cycle. Moreover, the quest for ergonomics and thus user-friendliness, goes beyond readability. With the four barrels of the Quattro system, the Perpetual T has a nine-day power reserve, meaning there is no need to worry about repeatedly adjusting the time or date. So as not to overload the dial, the power-reserve indicator appears on the reverse side of the watch and can be read through a transparent sapphire crystal case-back.

Certified precision…
The tourbillon of the Perpetual T sits enthroned at 6 o’clock, topped by a steel bridge meticulously polished to a mirror finish. By its constant rotation around its axis, it enables the rate of the watch to elude the effects of gravity. Each Perpetual T successfully passes the trials conducted by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute. The COSC tests the rating precision and issues its timekeeping certificate only for watches that meet its established tolerances. Chopard, which regularly submits its watches at the International Chronometry Competition in Le Locle, thereby offers concrete proof that the tourbillon of its L.U.C Perpetual T does indeed accomplish its mission and the ‘Chronometer’ inscription on the dial is a discreet reminder of its high-precision timing capabilities.

…and refined aesthetics
The 43 mm-diameter rose gold case of the Perpetual T frames a solid gold dial adorned with a hand-cut guilloché motif radiating out from the large date and crossing through the applied Roman numerals marking off the hours. The slate grey counters of the perpetual calendar are also guilloché-worked in order to distinguish between the functions and accentuate the contrasts.

When it comes to watches, inner beauty is an equally important virtue. The entire L.U.C Calibre 02.15-L has thus been hand-decorated in accordance with the finest watchmaking traditions. The plates are circular-grained, the screws are polished, the bridges are bevelled and adorned with a vertical Côtes de Genève motif and the jewels are set into gold chatons. These parts are all patiently polished and smoothed down by hand. The quality of these treatments combined with the specific technical and design choices involved in its development enable the L.U.C Perpetual T to earn the Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the most prestigious Swiss watch industry certification.

The L.U.C approach consists in a quest for excellence encompassing all aspects of the watch. An elegant complication model featuring the precision and the kinematic appeal of the tourbillon, the Perpetual T is made to be admired and worn. Its COSC and Poinçon de Genève certification testify to the high standards governing Chopard’s production of its prestigious watches. While naturally rare due to the sheer complexity of crafting it, the Perpetual T is nonetheless not a limited edition. It is taking its place firmly and securelyat the peak of the L.U.C ranges.

The resolutely in-house Chopard approach to watchmaking
Chopard is a family-owned company imbued with a strong sense of independence. The various stages involved in making L.U.C watches are conducted within the group’s own production sites in Meyrin and Fleurier. Movement development; design of the finished product; gold casting; stamping and machining of cases, movement parts and bracelets; traditional hand-crafted decorations; surface treatments; polishing; assembly; adjustment and quality control: this entire range of watch production operations is fully mastered in-house by Chopard and applied to the creationof each L.U.C watch.

Technical Details

Case
• 18-carat rose gold
• Total diameter 43.00 mm
• Thickness 14.90 mm
• Water resistance 30 m
• 18-carat rose gold crown with L.U.C logo 6.50 mm
• Glareproofed sapphire crystal
• Transparent exhibition back

Movement
• Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 02.15-L
• Diameter 33.00 mm
• Thickness 9.35 mm
• Number of jewels 31
• Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve 216 hours, meaning 9 days
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève
• Chronometer-certified by the COSC
• Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Dial and hands
• 18-carat gold hand-guilloché dial
• Slate grey snailed counters
• Gold-toned hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands, and hour-markers
• triangular day/night and year indications

Functions and displays
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Large date at 12 o’clock
• Perpetual calendar
• Power-reverse indicator on the back

Strap and buckle
• Hand-sewn brown alligator leather strap with cognac-coloured alligator lining
• 18-carat rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161940-5001 – In 18-carat rose gold

Press Release

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2013-04-25 14:26:42

Key Points from the Discussion

The L.U.C Perpetual T combines a perpetual calendar and tourbillon with a nine-day power reserve, establishing it as a significant piece in haute horology.
The watch's design prioritizes readability, featuring a large twin-aperture date display and strategically placed sub-dials for day, month, and leap-year indications.
The tourbillon is prominently displayed at 6 o'clock, topped by a mirror-polished steel bridge, and the watch is COSC-certified for precision, underscoring its chronometric performance.
Some collectors express a preference for simpler hour markers, like batons, over large Roman numerals to achieve a cleaner dial aesthetic.
The L.U.C Perpetual T is considered a favorite among new Chopard releases, with anticipation for seeing it in person.
The design choice to place the power reserve indicator on the case-back, visible through a sapphire crystal, prevents dial clutter while maintaining functionality.

The Discussion

patrick_y

Apr 25, 2013

Impressive looking watch!

AnthonyTsai

Apr 25, 2013

My favorite of all the new Chopard pieces. I can't wait to see one of these in the flesh! Cheers, Anthony

MichaelC

Apr 26, 2013

The dial and layout are perfect. Bravo!

MTF

Apr 27, 2013

It took me 5 years before I finally decided to get a LUC perpetual calendar Lunar One. Now, they have brought out a perpetual calendar with tourbillon........aarrggghhh. More angst for another 5 years??? :-) MTF

AndrewD

Apr 28, 2013

... the bit of whimsy and colour the moonphase brings, but this 'update' of the perpetual is superb, and in keeping with Chopard's strengths. Nice. Andrew

ling5hk

May 1, 2013

I would prefer a dial with simple hour marker (baton) instead of big roman numerals. That will keep the dial cleaner. Regards Ling

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