
MTF introduces the Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin, a significant release at Baselworld 2016 marking the 20th anniversary of the L.U.C Collection. This post highlights the brand's innovative decision to launch a new perpetual calendar movement in a steel case, offering a classic complication with superb value and readability.
L.U.C Perpetual Twin: A classic complication at great value
PuristS aficionados,
When Chopard launched their first L.U.C manual wind chronograph calibre simultaneously in a rose gold case and steel case for the L.U.C 1963 Collection, it was the first time a new L.U.C movement had been launched in a steel case, albeit simultaneously with the customary inaugural rose gold version. That was the PuristS Edition of the L.U.C 1963 Chrono that we are justly proud of.
For 2016, the 20th anniversary of the L.U.C Collection, Chopard surprises us with a new L.U.C movement launched in a steel case!
For 20 years, Chopard Manufacture has created the L.U.C collection: unique, finely crafted timepieces redolent with modernity, while respectful of Swiss watchmaking traditions.
This year, Chopard is shakes up the classic codes of complicated Haute Horlogerie by introducing the new L.U.C Perpetual Twin: an all-steel chronometer-certified perpetual calendar.
The L.U.C Perpetual Twin offers a new approach to the perpetual calendar ensuring maximum readability. A large twin-aperture date display, a distinctive motif of the L.U.C collection, is positioned at 12 o’clock, while the days and months each have their own dedicated outsized sub-dial. Finally, the year indication has been miniaturised and offset to the months dial. The February indication location reveals whether or not the year is a leap year like 2016.
With its incomparable style and its hand-sewn black alligator leather strap, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin in its 43mm diameter case asserts itself at first glance through a strong aesthetic picking up the key characteristics of the L.U.C collection. Large polished and raised Roman numerals run around the rim of the silver-toned dial, while a finely sunburst motif radiates from the L.U.CHOPARD logo. Alternating matt and polished finishes create a delightful shimmering effect on this new and original timepiece.
A new superbly crafted movement
A calendar is said to be perpetual if it displays the exact date in all circumstances. It mechanically calculates and shows the duration of months variously lasting 28, 29, 30 and 31 days. Its mode of operation calls for extremely sophisticated construction and adjustment so as to remain consistently accurate. Based on the micro-rotor technique coupled with two barrels (patented Twin® technology), this calibre supplies the watch with a comfortable 58-hour power reserve. In keeping with the quality demands of the manufacture, the movement is finished in accordance with the highest aesthetic standards. Its components are all hand-bevelled and their surface is either circular-grained or adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif, depending on their location within the mechanism.
Finally, its chronometric rating precision is certified by the COSC, reflecting the determination of Chopard Co-President, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, who assigns great importance to independent certification of timekeeping precision being achieved by L.U.C watches.
Total mastery
Movement construction, product design, gold smelting, case stamping and machining, movement components, traditional hand-crafted decorations, surface treatments, polishing, assembly, movement adjustment and quality control: all operations involved in watch production are performed in-house by Chopard.
The Maison applies them to the making of each watch in the L.U.C collection, paying tribute to the founder whose initials it bears: Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Profoundly attached to the pure lines and the subtle details that made his watches such highly sought-after items, Louis-Ulysse Chopard, back in his day, already knew how to attire gentlemen with beautiful pocket-watches.
Technical details
Case:
• Stainless steel
• Total diameter 43 mm
• Thickness 11.47 mm
• Water resistance 30 metres
• Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo 6.50 mm
• Vertical satin-brushed case middle
• Polished bezel and case-back
• Glareproofed sapphire crystal
• Exhibition back
Movement:
• Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.51-L
• Total diameter 33.00 mm
• Thickness 6.00 mm
• Number of jewels 27 jewels
• Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve: 58 hours
• Two barrels – Twin® technology
• Automatic winding by a micro-rotor
• Bridges adorned with a Côtes de Genève motif
• Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
• Silver-toned dial with sunburst satin-brushed motif focused on the calendar
• Perpetual calendar dials (large-aperture date, day of the week, month and leap years)
• Rhodiumed Dauphine-type hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands
• Rhodiumed red-tipped triangular leap-year hands
• Rhodiumed Roman numerals
• Minute track
Functions and displays:
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds display at 6 o’clock
• Large date display at 12 o’clock
• Day of the week and month displays at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively
• Offset leap-year display between 2 and 3 o’clock.
Strap and buckle:
• Hand-sewn black alligator leather with alligator leather lining
• Steel pin buckle
Ref. 168561-3001- in steel
What do you think?
A new movement launched in a steel case by L.U.C ?!?
Regards,
MTF
The subtlety of the location of the date indicator (on the F) escaped me at first glance. I don't mind the labeling of the other subdials - that's cool. The only improvement I would make to this (and most perpetuals) is instead of 1 2 3 4 on the tiny LEAP YEAR subdial -- I would put 28 28 28 29 instead. The indications 1 2 3 don't inform me of anything, really. And hopefully the steel case makes it more affordable in this negative interest world economy? Cheers, Cazalea
it will appeal me more. I'm still cannot get over a Perpetual Calendar without a moon, not even those with different phases of the moon engraved in a sub dial. It will also be nice if micro rotors are gold ) I think that will look so much better. Rgds Raymond
It's great to see this. Generally I'm very fond of what Chopard has done, and I've considered a good few for purchase. Unfortunately there's been something in each model I've looked at that didn't quite do it for me; but I've come pretty close and I still regard the original LUC 1.96 as a bit of a grail - maybe someday I'll pick one up (white gold, blue dial, I think). Now, about this watch... I don't mind about the lack of a moonphase. And I noticed with a little disappointment, but don't reall
My first thought was "where\'s the moonphase?" And my second thought was "why the labels for day month etc?"
To me it's not exactly intuitive. Given the inscription of 'month' on the subdial, wouldn't it be better to simply indicate w/ arabic numerals then the leap year indicator w/ roman numeral? Moreover, I'm curious about motivation behind launching this new caliber in steel case. The obvious guess would be to achieve a lower price point? However, if I remember correctly, this is the first non-precious metal perpetual from the house of Chopard?
...beginning with the text on the sundials and ending with the massive size. A watch this big should be waterproof down to 1,000 feet. Can't anyone other than PP make a slim, discreet perpetual anymore? Making thick watches isn't difficult, it's lazy imho.
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