Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 2014 Edition

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Kong's report from BaselWorld 2014 highlights Chopard's L.U.C Qualité Fleurier chronometer, celebrating 10 years of this rigorous certification. His detailed account underscores the demanding nature of the Fleurier Quality Foundation label and Chopard's consistent commitment to Haute Horlogerie, offering valuable insights into watch certification for collectors.

The Fleurier Quality Foundation label is undoubtedly the most demanding of all watch certifications. It combines the COSC, Chronofiable and Fleuritest trials. The latest Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier chronometer perfectly embodies the essence of Haute Horlogerie according to Chopard.

L.U.C movements, entirely developed, crafted and assembled at Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier since 1996, represent the quintessence of Haute Horlogerie, cultivated in harmony with the spirit of the brand founder, Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Chopard has already submitted on three separate occasions one of these models to the Fleurier Quality Foundation tests – an independent certification reputed to be extremely difficult to obtain. After the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model in 2005, the L.U.C Tech Qualité Fleurier in 2009, and the L.U.C Triple Certification Tourbillon 2011, Chopard once again unveils a new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model bearing the prestigious label. Chopard is thus the brand that has certified the most watches since the creation of the certification which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year.

L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 2014 Edition

The Fleurier Quality Foundation certification is unique in terms of its scope as well as the experience it has accumulated through its ten years in operation. It derives its strength and its legitimacy from prestigious institutions such as the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute and Chronofiable, which perform testing in addition to the label’s own procedures. The “Qualité Fleurier” and “Chronometer” inscriptions, along with the Foundation logo, are clearly visible on the dial of the Qualité Fleurier chronometer in its 2014 edition. These certifications are a constant reminder of the long and arduous trials that this watch has sailed through with flying colours.

A global certification
The Fleurier Quality Foundation label is a particularly demanding guarantee of global quality granted by the Foundation bearing the same name: an independent certification body created in 2001. Chopard is one of the founding brands alongside several partners in the Val-de-Travers, the Jura region of which Fleurier is the epicentre. It is open to all Swiss and European watch brands, and operates under the control of a Technical Committee and the Foundation Council. The independence – and thus the objectivity – of these two bodies is guaranteed by the support of Swiss public authorities, including the Swiss Federal Government itself.

The certification process involves a series of steps aimed at guaranteeing not only the watch movement’s precision, but also its reliability, its durability and the quality of its aesthetic finishing. After the movement itself, the finished watch is also tested in simulated wearing conditions – hence the notion of global quality.

Three trials for one certification
The precision of each movement is tested by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), which delivers the much sought-after “chronometer” title. The tests last two weeks, during which the movement is put through its paces in five positions and at three different temperatures. The average variation in rate must fall within the tolerance range of -4/+6 seconds per day. Reliability is tested by the Chronofiable procedure conducted on a representative selection of finished watches. The latter are subjected to tests relating to ageing, heat, cold and damp, as well as to repeated pushing and pulling on the winding stem, to magnetic fields as well as to recurrent impacts of varying intensity. This test lasts three weeks. Finally, the smooth operation of the finished watch undergoes a further control by the Fleuritest machine specially developed by the Fleurier Quality Foundation to provide the most faithful possible simulation of wear on the wrist over a 24-hour cycle. The variation in rate must remain within 0 to +5 seconds for the entire 24-hour cycle.

Further to these stringent conditions relating to the operation of the cased-up movement, the Fleurier Quality Foundation label stipulates that the entire watch, including movement and exterior components, must be made in Switzerland. It also includes aesthetic quality criteria governing the whole watch and encompassing both visible and hidden areas, however small.

The elegance of a chronometer certified by the Fleurier Quality Foundation
For the fourth time in its history, Chopard Manufacture is presenting a model bearing the Fleurier Quality Foundation label. To underscore the exceptional technical qualities of this authentic precision instrument, the dial of the new L.U.C Fleurier Quality Foundation reveals refined and original technical details that are focused on readability: the sunburst satin-brushed ruthenium base strikes a remarkable contrast with its gilded hands featuring a unique design among L.U.C ranges. The slender applied gilded baton-shaped hour-markers are surrounded by a minute track.

The 39 mm-diameter, 18 carat rose gold case with a transparent back houses the L.U.C Calibre 96.09-L, featuring Chopard’s exclusive “Twin” technology stacked barrels ensuring an approximately 65-hour power reserve. Beating at the rhythm of 28,800 vibrations per hour, it drives the hour and minute hands as well as small seconds at 6 o’clock. The new L.U.C Qualité Fleurier model is fitted with a black alligator leather strap. A token of the omnipresent insistence on quality which is characteristic of Chopard Manufacture, it is lined with brown alligator leather instead of the traditional lighter and more delicate natural leathers. The watch is thus beautifully finished on both sides, including its case, movement and lugs.

Technical Details

Case:
· Case in 18-carat rose gold
· Total diameter 39 mm
· Thickness 8.92 mm
· Water resistance 30 metres
· 18ct rose gold crown with L.U.C logo
· Glare proofed sapphire crystal
· Transparent case-back

Movement:

· Self-winding L.U.C 96.09-L
· Diameter 27.40 mm
· Thickness 3.30 mm
· Number of jewels 29
· Frequency    28,800 vph
· Power reserve    65 hours
·     Two stacked barrels, L.U.C “Twin” technology
· Chronometer-certified (COSC)
· “Fleurier Quality Foundation” (FQF) certification

Dial and hands:
· Sunburst satin-brushed ruthenium dial
· FQF logo at 12 o’clock
· Gilded hour, minute and small seconds hands

Functions and displays :
· Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle:
· Hand-sewn black alligator leather strap with brown alligator leather lining
· 18ct rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161896-5003

Press Release

This message has been edited by Kong on 2014-03-27 00:35:07

Key Points from the Discussion

The Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF) label is the most demanding watch certification, combining COSC, Chronofiable, and Fleuritest trials to guarantee precision, reliability, durability, and aesthetic finishing.
Chopard is a founding brand of the FQF and has certified the most watches since its inception, demonstrating a strong commitment to this independent, globally recognized quality standard.
The L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 2014 edition's case, with its tear-drop lugs, is seen as a modern interpretation of 1950s designs, placing L.U.Chopard in the same league as Patek, Vacheron, A. Lange & Söhne, and AP.
There is a debate among collectors regarding the placement and necessity of the 'Qualité Fleurier' inscription and logo on the dial, with some preferring a cleaner dial with just the L.U.Chopard branding.
The L.U.C 1963, while twice the price, is considered a strong alternative to the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 2014, particularly for its beautiful movement execution.
The L.U.C collection's expansion and the brand's overall work are seen as being in the same league as top-tier brands, needing only to beef up brand equity.

The Discussion

MervC

Mar 27, 2014

I hope i am not nitpicking, but the QF logo looks out of place here.

Spellbound

Mar 27, 2014

I especially like the case which looks like a modern interpretation of the tear drop lugged cases on the 1950's. I think it is fair to mention L.U.Chopard in the same breath as Patek, Vacheron, AL&S and AP. Understood the FQF cert, but between this and the recently released limited L.U.C 1963, it'll be a tough choice but I think I would go for the 1963 just for the sheer beautiful execution of the movement. Dean

Kong

Mar 27, 2014

indeed a tough fight! Kong

Kong

Mar 27, 2014

Agree with you. Perhaps just the logo 'Q' is sufficient, but to have it balance it got to be placed after Chronometer. But in term of 'ranking', QF is higher and more stringent, so it may need to place just below the brand logo. Perhaps the 'Q' could be inside the small-second subdial. Where would you place it? Kong

MervC

Mar 27, 2014

If it was up to me, I will prefer just L.U.Chopard printed on the dial. No 'chronometer', no other logo. Don't Need to advertise qualite fleurier on the dial.

Chrisfrombyron

Mar 28, 2014

Certainly snapping at the heels of Patek and a few others .... The writing on the dial is a tad busy but nowhere like the mini essays on the faces of some watches , ala Rolex . Any indication of price ?

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