Review
MTF's 2017 Baselworld coverage highlights a Chopard L.U.C XP reference 168592-3001 that, despite its understated elegance, risked being overlooked amidst flashier releases. This article delves into why this particular L.U.C XP, with its unique aesthetic and new Calibre 96.53-L, represents a significant and accessible entry point into haute horlogerie, challenging traditional perceptions of luxury watch styling.
Less is More.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
One watch from Chopard may have escaped notice at Baselworld 2017 because (ironically) it is the simplest L.U.C model in the Collection.
The new L.U.C XP model is just on the right side of cool and casual elegance with its 40mm diameter steel case, a silver-toned vertical satin-brushed Dacron-finish dial with large blued numerals and a blue cashmere strap.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP case
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
A cool new timepiece needs a new engine and so they created the ultra-thin self-winding Calibre 96.53-L.
The new movement has a tungsten micro-rotor to generate power and dual-barrel Twin® technology to store it.
Modern, reliable, precision timekeeping entirely developed and produced in the Chopard Manufacture workshops in Fleurier, this cool bit of kit is an affordable entry into haute horlogerie for the young gentleman.
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
L.U.C XP design
Getting away from the traditional House of Leather or Country Club style usually associated with the highest echelon of horology, this pure and contemporary ultra-thin timepiece from Chopard displays a stylish vibe and sartorial awareness like a breath of fresh air.
I can see the influence of Chopard Porto Cervo in the way it plays with codes and styles of casual beach life.
Chopard Porto Cervo, Sardinia
The dial shimmers with finely vertical satin-brushed silver-tones and the slender applied hour-markers seem to "pop" out.
The polished curves of the broad blued numerals are swept over by blue dauphine fusée hands.
L.U.C XP numerals
How can so little do so much to the visual field?
The contrarian blue cashmere woven strap lined with brown alligator leather is a first for the L.U.C collection. The strap feels just like any L.U.C strap on-the-wrist because of the alligator leather lining but the cashmere outer feels soft and luxurious to the touch.
For the more conservative men or on formal occasions, the L.U.C XP may also be paired with a blue alligator leather strap.
The really cool guys would probably just stick with the cashmere strap.
New L.U.C 96.53-L movement
The L.U.C XP watches contain a new L.U.C 96.53-L movement with double stacked mainspring barrels (patented Twin® technology) guaranteeing a 58-hour power reserve.
As there is not much space in an ultra-thin 7.20 mm case, the self-winding movement uses an ingenious micro-rotor that hides within the movement. The rotor is made of dense tungsten for efficient winding.
Despite the extra flat case, you can admire your new movement through the exhibition case back.
Dress Down or Up
CONCLUSIONS
The L.U.C XP is suited to all occasions and can be either an entry into Haute Horlogerie...
OR
...a spare accessory for experienced collectors to complement any masculine wardrobe.
Technical details
L.U.C XP ref.168592-3001
Case:
Stainless steel
Total diameter 40.00 mm
Thickness 7.20 mm
Water resistance 30 metres
Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
Vertical satin-brushed flanks and space between lugs, polished bezel and case-back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition case-back
L.U.C 96.53-L movement
Movement:
Self-winding movement L.U.C 96.53-L
Number of components: 172
Total diameter: 27.4 mm
Thickness: 3.30 mm
Number of jewels: 27
Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve 58 hours
Two barrels – Twin® technology
Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
Black engravings
L.U.C XP compared with L.U.C XPS
Dial and hands:
Silver-toned dial with vertical satin-brushed vertical finish
Applied blued numerals
Applied blued Dauphine-type hour-markers
Blued Dauphine fusée-type hours and minutes hands
Functions and displays:
Central display of the hours and minutes
Strap and buckle:
Blue cashmere strap with hand-sewn brown alligator leather lining OR blue alligator leather strap with hand-sewn brown alligator leather lining
Stainless steel pin buckle
Ref. 168592-3001 – in stainless steel
What do you think?
For beginners or experienced gentlemen? 
Regards,
MTF
A very haute couture piece of haute horlogerie. I'll definitely be keeping en eye out for it the next time I'm at a Chopard boutique! Movement is well finished? It doesn't have the Geneva Seal nor the Fleurier seal, but looks reasonably well finished in the photos. Main thing I care about is perfectly polished anglage (you hear that Jaeger-LeCoultre).
Manual wind movement is preferable, but that micro rotor is such a little beauty! 38-39mm will be nice, but since this watch does not appear to be a pure dressy piece, 40mm will also do, especially with Chopard's great design of case shape and lugs.
Sometimes simple is boring but little pops make it clean yet fresh. I think this fits that bill. Very nice.
Kind of a Chopard "base" here. I like it.
What is pricing for this?
This L.U.C XP cannot be chronometer certified nor QF tested because it has no seconds hand; that being a vital requirement of those tests. Geneva Seal is not available because the watch is entirely manufactured in Fleurier, which is outside the Canton of Geneva, that being a requirement for certification. Regards, MTF
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