Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec Ref. 161936-5001

Kong · 2012-05-21T23:16:24Z

Explore the Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec (Ref. 161936-5001), the 4th generation ultra-thin skeletonized watch. See its evolution and design.

Kong

WPS member · Chopard forum

12 replies4532 views1 photos

Kong introduces the Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec, the fourth generation of the 'Extra-plate' series, offering a detailed look at its design and technical evolution. His post traces the lineage of the L.U.C XP from its 2006 debut to this 2012 skeletonized iteration, highlighting Chopard's continuous innovation in ultra-thin watchmaking. This article provides a comprehensive overview of a significant model in the L.U.C collection.

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Ever since L.U.C "Extra-plate" which also known as L.U.C XP was launched in 2006, and proudly won the first prize in the ultra-thin watch category in the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix the same year, it has evolved too.

Beginning with straight-forward minute-hour version and solid caseback, it progresses to a newer version (XPS) with small-second added so it can be a COSC certified to realise the full potential of the in-house movement. In between, the L.U.C XP has a small collection of exquisite Urushi dial series, handpainted by a Japanese Urushi Master. Last year, to commemorate the Poinçon de Genève 125th Anniversary, L.U.C issued a limited production model of 125 pieces with a date added.

To make more interesting extra-plate series , this year, L.U.C up the ante with their fourth generation (4G) of extra-plate - L.U.C XP Skeletec .

A quick recap ....

From top left, 2006 - the origin of XP with the L.U.C 96HM movement. 2009, a version with small-second and sapphire crystal caseback with movement L.U.C 12.96. One of the beautiful Urushi series and the Geneva Seal XPS with date and small-second.

The commemorative piece, chocolate sunburst satin-brushed dial with “Poinçon de Genève” logo.

And the 2012 version, the L.U.C XP Skeletec (Ref. 161936-5001) ...

The L.U.C XP Skeletec featuring open dial-work and skeletonising of the parts of the main-plate and bridges. I guess there would be other colour scheme later. This initial version seems to match the exterior facia with the internal components.
The gears, barrels and balance wheel are in gold hue, it is logical to have a warm rose gold version with rose gold dauphine-hands and indexes, blending well with a slate hour-chapter-ring and Rhodium-plated black the platine and bridges.

The 18K rose gold case is of diameter 39.50 mm and a thickness 7.13 mm, limited to 288 pieces.

The irregular cut-out at area between 3H and 4H exposing the setting lever disturbs the harmony of the dial. Perhaps, L.U.C would like to owner to see some animation while adjusting and winding the watch (for inital power, as it is an automatic).

Sapphire crystal is both sides anti-reflective coated providing superb clarity.

Logo was printed on the second surface of the sapphire crystal.

4mm signed gold crown.

View from the caseback of the skeletonised bridges. The LE serial number is also engraved on.

This skeletonised version of the 96HM is named as L.U.C 96.17-S, exposing the one of the barrels and part of the gear-train. Many would think, it is an easy decision just to skeletonise the movement. For ultra-thin movement of height at 3.30mm, it needs time to study and verify the structural strength of the skeletonised platine and bridges to ensure the reliability is not compromised.

Both main-plate and bridges were decorated with Côtes de Genève waves and then rhodium-plated black.

Per the 96HM, the L.U.C Extra-plates are all powered by two barrels (Twin^® technology) giving a power reserve 65 hours at 28,800 vph.

A picture of the 96HM for comparison ...

The 2012 skeletonised version - L.U.C 96.17-S

It will be intriguing to view with a loupe (5X or 10X), the hidden elaborate work on the movement, like the decorated underside of the main-plate and bridges.
Tilting at an angle, reveal twin stacked barrels and running of the gear-train and the lever escapement.

A couple of 'see-through' pictures of the L.U.C Skeletec against the backlighting ...

A good effort from L.U.C for one of its first skeletonised work. I would wish for a fully exposed version, without the hour-chapter ring/dial or substitute with a sapphire hour-chapter ring

What are your thoughts?

Kong

Related Reads :

1) Press release of L.U.C Skeletec:
chopard.watchprosite.com

2) Real pictures of XP & XPS :
chopard.watchprosite.com

Key Points from the Discussion

A key debate point is the balance between readability and showcasing the skeletonized movement, with the half-dial design being a compromise.
The rhodium coating of the movement is noted for its dark grey contrast with the hour ring in photos, but a question is raised about its actual color in person.
The author clarifies that the L.U.C XP Skeletec is not a boutique exclusive, making it more widely available.
A suggestion is made that a fully skeletonized dial would look better, with examples from other brands like Piaget and AP cited as references.
The irregular cut-out on the dial is humorously described as an 'ear,' with a suggestion for a symmetrical design to improve harmony.
Several contributors express a desire to see the watch in person to form a definitive opinion, indicating that photos don't fully capture its essence.

The Discussion

ling5hk

May 22, 2012

I agree that a full skeletonised dial will look much better than the half/part skeletonised dial. Piaget, Harry Winston, AP and of course VC can be good references. In fact, the irreguler cut out at 3H and 4H looks like an "ear". If Chopard makes another "ear" at 8H and 9H, then, it is balance. Regards Ling

lien

May 22, 2012

this year seem to be the year of skeletor i like its back alot better than the front as the half opened dial seem to interrupt the intended classy presentation. cheers, ed

MTF

May 22, 2012

The current Mrs MTF loves skeletonised watches and wears one quite frequently when not wearing her Chopard The main problem with skeletonisation is ......er......the lack of a dial ! So reading time is usually an approximation of angles of the hands. I guess this half-dial is a balance between readability and showing off the skeleton movement. On the back, it is easy to have full exposure. One of the reasons that I finally 'passed' on the 1st LUC Chrono One was the fenestrated dial showing date

Gav

May 22, 2012

kinda bugs me a little. But overall, I think it is a more than decent effort from Chopard. Will love to see it in the metal. Thanks for the report and great pics as always. Best, Gavin

thumper

May 23, 2012

I think it would look nicer if it was fully exposed or have a thinner hour ring to match the thinnest of the watch. In the photos the rhodium coating of the movement looks a nice dark grey that contrasts the hour ring nicely but I think in the metal, the movement is not so dark in color. The skeletonisation looks very nice, clean and modern/contemporary rather then too busy and intricate. So deeper contrasting colors between the skeleton and the hour ring would be more in the contemporary/modern

Kong

May 23, 2012

in the Ngee Ann Boutique. There should be a piece in store. My pics were taken during the March Basel. Should not be a boutique exclusive. My guess this is already a tech skeleton ...the name is Skele..tec Thanks for inputs, SC. Kong

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