Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860 Baselworld 2016

MTF introduces the Chopard L.U.C XPS 1860, a timepiece celebrating 20 years of the L.U.C collection by paying homage to the original L.U.C 1860. This article delves into the design philosophy of "less is more" and the meticulous craftsmanship behind this contemporary interpretation, featuring the ultra-thin L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L movement.

Yet do much less, so much less, Someone says,
(I know his name, no matter)—so much less!
Well, less is more, Lucrezia: I am judged.

-- Robert Browning; “The Faultless Painter” (1855)

Friends, PuristS, Horophiles: lend me your ears!
For soon it will come to pass that an elegant and distinctive timepiece by Chopard will pay homage to the first watch in the L.U.C collection: the original L.U.C 1860 launched in 1996 at the creation of Chopard Manufacture, and whose 20th anniversary is drawing nigh.

The new L.U.C XPS 1860 watch with its hand-guilloché dial and ultra-thin case is a contemporary interpretation of a great classic, combining discreet elegance and sobriety with the first Chopard Manufacture movement: the L.U.C Calibre 96.01-L.

The L.U.C XPS 1860 is a classic. It belongs to the line of ultra-thin Chopard watches and features a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The year 1860 refers to the date when Louis-Ulysse Chopard founded his watch manufactory. In 1996, following the creation of Chopard Manufacture, Chopard presented its first contemporary L.U.C watch, the L.U.C 1860. Like its forebear, the L.U.C XPS 1860 is distinguished by its respect for grand watchmaking traditions and for chronometry or timekeeping precision – two key elements that Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele was determined to incorporate within the L.U.C collection.

A distinctively elegant watch
The supremely elegant original L.U.C 1860 foreshadowed the ultra-slim trend. With its case featuring refined finishing, its contemporary Dauphine-type hands, its elegant applied hour-markers, the L.U.C. XPS 1860 offers a new take on this historical watch. Like all L.U.C watches, it is entirely dedicated to its owner’s service. Hedonists will thus find in the L.U.C XPS 1860 an essential wardrobe item, a watch that becomes indispensable through its technical qualities, its inner beauty and its outward style. Its strength stems from the breadth of its possibilities. Just as a double-breasted grey flannel jacket can be worn with a matching or deliberately mismatched pair of trousers, so too, the L.U.C XPS 1860 plays several roles with equal panache.

An object endowed with exceptional finishing
The L.U.C XPS 1860 is a decidedly contemporary timepiece. It has a 40 mm diameter that makes it truly universal. Its short, ergonomic lugs ensure a perfect fit on even the smallest wrists. With a total thickness of just 7.2 mm, it is very much part of the ultra-thin category. Its elegance is enhanced by its distinctive dial, on which, the central part bears a sophisticated hand-guilloché motif radiating out from the logo at 12 o’clock. The L.U.C XPS 1860 is offered with an 18-carat rose gold case, produced in a 250-piece limited series featuring a gold dial.

Precision and fine craftsmanship dedicated to gentlemen
The L.U.C watchmaking approach goes far beyond a mere interpretation of a fine classic. Not only is the L.U.C XPS 1860 an ultra-slim and elegant watch, but it is also one made for today’s men. Its Calibre 96.01-L, the first movement created by Chopard Manufacture, is automatically wound by a 22-carat gold micro-rotor, a rare horological speciality that is practical as well as ensuring slimness. It is endowed with Twin® technology, ensuring a 65-hour power reserve, well beyond the usual standards for ultra-thin watches. Moreover, the L.U.C XPS 1860s is one of the very rare ultra-thin watches to display the date. Like all L.U.C watches with a seconds indication, it is chronometer-certified by the COSC. It bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark that distinguishes the quality of its construction and finishing, as well as its resilience to the trials of daily life.

Technical details

Case:
• 18ct rose gold
• Total diameter     40.00 mm
• Thickness            7.20 mm
• Water resistance 30 metres
• 18ct rose gold crown with L.U.C logo 5.00 mm
• Vertical satin-brushed sides and inter-horn space, polished bezel and case-back
• Glareproofed sapphire crystal
• Transparent exhibition caseback

Movement:
• Mechanical self-winding L.U.C 96.01-L
• Total diameter:      27.4 mm
• Thickness:             3.30 mm
• Number of jewels: 29
• Frequency:            28,800 vph (4 Hz)
• Power reserve:      65 hours
• Micro-rotor in 22ct gold
• Two barrels - Twin® technology
• Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève motif
• Chronometer-certified (COSC)
• Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark

Dial and hands:
• Silver-toned gold dial, hand-guilloché centre with sunburst satin-finished surround
• Gilt Dauphine-type hours, minutes and small seconds hands

Functions and displays:
• Central display of the hours and minutes
• Small seconds display at 6 o’clock

Strap and buckle:
• Matt brown hand-sewn alligator leather strap
• 18ct rose gold pin buckle

Ref. 161946-5001 – In 18 ct rose gold  250-piece limited edition

MTF: As an owner of one of the 100 pieces of the original L.U.C 1860/1, I can testify about its timeless elegance and respect for grand watchmaking traditions. Surely, one of the iconic timepieces of the 20th century.

Now that we are into the 21st century, it is fitting that an even thinner watch from the XPS line takes its place amongst the pantheon of the greats.

There will be nay-sayers who gripe about the presence of a date display or even a seconds hand in an extra flat watch. However, those were crucial elements of the original L.U.C 1860. Furthermore, only watches with seconds hands can be certified as chronometers by COSC.

L.U.C is about respect for grand watchmaking traditions and for chronometry.

All Hail the L.U.C 20th Anniversary!

Regards,

MTF