
CaliforniaJed's Baselworld 2015 report on the Chopard L.U.C XPS Fairmined introduces a timepiece that masterfully blends horological artistry with a profound commitment to ethical sourcing. His overview highlights Chopard's pioneering 'Journey to Sustainable Luxury,' showcasing how the use of Fairmined gold elevates the watch beyond mere aesthetics. This article provides essential context for understanding the significance of ethical luxury in contemporary watchmaking.
L.U.C XPS Fairmined
Timely, Elegant, Ethical Luxury
The new L.U.C XPS Fairmined watch combines watchmaking expertise with an ethical approach. The 250-piece limited edition crafted in Fairmined gold; illustrates the company’s continued commitment to The Journey to Sustainable Luxury and increasing the use of ethical gold in its creations.

The case-back, middle case and bezel of the new L.U.C XPS Fairmined are entirely made of Fairmined gold; a certification guaranteeing that the gold has been responsibly mined and the miners have received fair payment and an overall premium. The L.U.C XPS Fairmined is made in accordance with the Green Carpet Challenge (GCC) ethical benchmarking.
The new L.U.C XPS Fairmined is a continuation of The Journey to Sustainable Luxury project that began in 2013 and follows the launch at Baselworld 2014, of the L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined, the world’s first watch made from gold bearing the Fairmined certification.
Technical sophistication and aesthetic refinement
Whilst perfectly encapsulating the profound ethical commitment embedded in the core values of Chopard, the new L.U.C XPS Fairmined also embodies authentic watchmaking expertise. It houses mechanical self-winding L.U.C Calibre 96.12-L, certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), a sure token of reliability and precision. Reliably driving the hour, minute and second functions, this movement, entirely designed, developed and produced in-house at Chopard, is just 3.3 mm thick – a technical feat achieved by an ingenious offset micro-rotor made of delicately engraved gold. Equipped with a double barrel (Twin® technology) ensuring more than 65-hour power reserve, the L.U.C 96.12-L movement beats at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

With its meticulously chamfered bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève and visible through the open case-back, as well as its circular-grained and chamfered main plate, this exceptional mechanism reveals finishes that are the unmistakable signature of haute horlogerie watches.

The discreet elegance of a grand classic
The L.U.C XPS Fairmined with its pure, restrained design is distinguished by its inherent elegance. Presented in a Fairmined 18-carat rose gold case, its sleek modern lines feature a 39.5 mm diameter and a thickness of just 7.13 mm. The hours and minutes are marked off on a subtle sunburst satin-brushed slate-grey galvanic dial enhanced with gilt Dauphine hands sweeping over slender gilt hour-markers matching the polished rose gold of the case. The L.U.C XPS Fairmine
d model is worn on a hand-sewn black alligator vegetable tanned leather strap.
Ongoing ethical commitment
This watch highlights the long term partnership between Chopard and the South American NGO, The Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), the organisation behind the Fairmined standard for gold extracted by small-scale and artisanal methods.
To ensure the traceability of the Fairmined gold now used by Chopard, the company has created a segregation process in its workshops in Geneva, ensuring that Fairmined gold is not mixed at any stage with other types of gold. Gold waste is
also dealt with separately.
Technical details
Case:
· Case in 18ct Fairmined rose gold
· Total diameter 39.50 mm
· Thickness 7.13 mm
· Water resistance 30 metres
· Cro
wn in 18ct rose
gold with L.U.C logo 4.00 mm
· Polished case middle, bezel and case-back
· Glareproofed sapphire crystal
· Exhibition back engraved with Fairmined logo
Movement:
· Self-winding movement L.U.C 96.12-L
· Total diameter 27.400 mm
· Number of jewels 29
· Frequency 28,800 A/h (4 Hz)
· Power reserve
65 hours
· Two barrels - Twin® technology
· Bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève
· “Chronometer” certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
Functions and displays:
· Central display of the hours and minutes
· Small seconds display at 6 o’clock
Strap and buckle:
· Hand-sewn matt black (CITES certified) alligator vegetable tanned leather
· Pin buckle in 18ct rose gold
Ref. 16 1920-5006 – In Fairmined 18ct rose gold
Exclusive to Chopard Boutiques
Limited edition of 250 pieces
Link to Chopard website: chopard.com

What is that dial decoration? It's going to be tough to the photos but I will try. Regards MTF
...but I am not sure what that means in this context, MTF. Please do try to capture some live shots if possible so we can get a better look. Best, CaliforniaJed
It means they dip the dials in chemical solutions whilst passing an electriv current through the dial. The chemicals deposit a coating bonded by 'galvansation' to the dial base metal (brass, steel, gold or silver depending on your budget). The different chenical deposit different colours, Galva was an Italian scientist who experimented with electricity....frogs came into "play" but lets not go there... Regards, MTF
The case is refined, the movement is a pleasure to look at, and the dial is original, and good looking. White metal planned? Best, Nicolas
Fantastic dial! Live pictures more than welcome.
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