Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition Review

MTF provides a hands-on review of the Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition, a chronograph introduced at Baselworld 2016. He delves into its design inspirations, legibility, and the significance of its 46mm case, offering a detailed perspective often overlooked amidst other Chopard releases.

I would like to report my first live experience of the Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition watch introduced at the Baselworld 2016 trade fair.

Whilst most of the media frenzy concerned the introductions of a steel cased extra-flat watch - the L.U.C 1860 XPS and a new automatic perpetual calendar movement only encased in steel - the L.U.C Perpetual Twin, fewer column-inches were devoted to the Chopard Mille Miglia range.

I want to redress this because there are many more Chopard Mille Miglia owners amongst us.

First impressions

Even before meeting the Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition watch, some key points had been 'grist for the rumour mill'. We were primed to check out the new case size, new 'engine', and new accessories. Of course, being a chronograph, it fulfilled one of my personal criteria for a Mille Miglia Race Edition.  There have been a few Mille Miglia Race Edition watches without chronograph function through the years but I consider them aberrant outliers rather than the norm.

Old Look

Chopard became partner and official timekeeper of the famous Mille Miglia classic car rally in 1988. Chopard involvement in classic racing came from its co-president; Karl-Friedrich Scheufele's personal passion for collectors’ cars and the automobile universe. This shared love of fine mechanics and sports performance inspired a much sought-after watch collection: the Mille Miglia timepieces by Chopard.

The Chopard Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition watch will be issued as 1,000-pieces in stainless steel. Its design motifs are inspired by cars that took part in the historical race between 1927 and 1940.

The classic, elegant lines are set off by two traditional pushers and a fluted crown.

My three most important requirements for any watch and particularly for racing instruments are:
1) Legibility
2) Legibility
3) Legibility

I am always drawn to a perfectly readable, satin-brushed black dial with wide Arabic numerals and luminescent hands. It is logical and practical that the chronograph sub-dials are anthracite grey to be distinguished from the normal time indicators in black. To this end, the bright red, chronograph central sweep-seconds hand also stands out clearly.

The legible, snailed tachymetric scale is useful for calculating average speed, which is the decisive factor in endurance 'regularity' racing. Unlike the original Mille Miglia races, current Mille Miglia Storica race winners are decided by the most precise adherence to set average speeds rather than speeding "hellbent-for-leather" to the Finish Line.

Having said that, the maximum speed indicated by the tachymetric scale (400) seems a tad optimistic whether it is MPH or KmPH !

New Case

At 46mm in diameter, this is the largest Mille Miglia wrist chronograph case that Chopard has ever produced. It is a nod towards the vintage dashboard instruments from classic racing that were simply large pocket watches set into wooden holders.

At the same time, it provides an extra large wrist watch in Chopard's catalogue to cater for that segment of the client demographic who want or need larger watches. I think it brings the elegance of Chopard to the usual Breitling, Panerai, Hublot or Audermars Piguet fans who like big watches.

Even with the title of "Largest Mille Miglia Chronograph", the watch did not appear overly large.

I was wearing my Chopard Superfast Chrono Porsche 919 Edition (45mm diameter) that looked bigger. This was possibly because of the aggressive screws and bezel on the Superfast model. 

The Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition appears smaller because of its vintage-style case with narrow curved case bezel and short bevelled lugs. The clever use of rehaut ring between the dial and bezel/crystal draws the eye inwards to the smaller dial area. Maybe there is some credence also to the "slimming" effect of the colour black compared with silver?

Whatever the reason, I could not believe the specified 46mm diameter until I measured it myself - which also proved that the Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition case height (14.17mm) is thinner than the Chopard Superfast model (15.18mm).

The new bevelled lugs, pushers, crown and case sides make for a more aggressive "feel" to complement the enlarged diameter.

It is not visually obvious until a direct comparison is made with the old cases. That is why I describe it as a "feeling" imbued by the changes.

Despite the diameter increase, the on-the-wrist comfort is not compromised.

The short but acutely-angled lugs allow for moulding to even my Asian wrist. The curved sides and thinner case only add to the comfort.

New Engine

The view of the case back is usually reserved for the owner and even then is restricted to mere glimpses when putting the watch on or taking it off the wrist. That is a shame because there are certain features on this watch to enjoy.

The screws on the case back evoke the look of vintage steering wheels and the red arrow logo is from the original Chopard Mille Miglia 1988 Race watch.

Lastly but not least is the view of the Chopard 03.05-C automatic winding chronograph movement. This is the first Mile Miglia chronograph with an in-house Chopard 'engine'.

The chronograph is controlled by a column wheel and there is almost imperceptible starting jump of the seconds hand. The Start-Stop pusher action is crisp but firmer than the high-end L.U.C movements. Importantly, the action is consistent and reproducible. The Reset pusher action is slightly stiffer than the Start-Stop pusher.

As this was a demonstration piece already suffering hardships at the world's largest trade fair, perhaps I should reserve final judgement until series production pieces are available?

The movement finishing is appropriate for its function: good industrial mechanical engineering. Mainplates, bridges and components are machine polished without being over-decorated.

The timing adjustment is in 5 positions to chronometer standards and COSC certified.

New Accessories

Finally, I have to draw attention to the new leather straps fitted to the watch made of 'Suportlo® ' calfskin. They are designed to have a weathered look with waterproofing and supple feel; evoking the leather tie-down straps on the bonnet of a vintage racing car. These wrist straps are designed to become even more 'weathered' to achieve the "vintage patina" that is so desired by some collectors.

Conclusions

This 2016 iteration of the Mille Miglia Race Edition watches is one of the better ones with perfect legibility and attractive colour combination.

The XL size and vintage-look is made glorious by the in-house chronograph movement appearing for the first time in a Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph.

Pros
*  First Chopard Mille Miglia chronograph with in-house movement.
*  Large but elegant vintage-style case for those wanting a XL model.
*  Short lugs allow comfort for small wrists too.
*  Legible black dial with contrasting numerals, sub-dials and red seconds hands.
*  Jacky Ickx likes Mille Miglia Race watches.

Cons
*  Large case may not suit some people but there are many smaller Chopard Mille Miglia alternatives.
*  Date display not "period-correct" but it is not intrusive because of the dial layout and stealthy date-disc black background.

Mille Miglia 2016 XL Race Edition
Technical details

Case:
Stainless steel
Total diameter  46.00 mm
Thickness  14.17 mm
Water-resistant to 50 metres
Stainless steel crown  8.50 mm
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Stainless steel pushers
Exhibition case-back with Mille Miglia logo around the rim

Movement:
Self-winding chronograph movement 03.05-C
Total diameter  28.80 mm
Number of jewels 45
Frequency  28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approx. 60 hours
Chronometer-certified by the COSC

Dial and hands:
Circular satin-brushed black dial with black inner bezel ring
White transferred minute track markings and tachymeter scale graduations
Red Mille Miglia logo
Superluminova-painted hours numerals
Snailed, velvet-finished slate grey hours and minutes counters
Finely snailed black seconds sub-dial
Rhodiumed or gilded Dauphine-type Superluminova-painted hours and minutes hands
Rhodiumed triangular-shaped counter pointers
Red sweep-seconds hand

Functions:
Hours, minutes, seconds
Hours, minutes and seconds counters at 9, 3 and 6 o’clock respectively
Date window between 4 and 5 o’clock

Strap and clasp:
Strap in brown 'Suportlo® ' calfskin – Vintage treatment acquiring a weathered look over time
Stainless steel folding clasp

Ref. 168580-3001 – in stainless steel – 1,000-piece limited edition

By: Dr M.Teillol-Foo, 2016