Review
MTF's review of the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black offers a timely reflection on a watch that, despite its understated nature, embodies significant design and technical prowess. This article highlights why this particular model, often overshadowed by other Baselworld novelties, warrants closer examination for its unique aesthetic and in-house movement. MTF delves into the watch's distinctive 'blackness' and subtle red accents, revealing the thoughtful details that make it a standout in the Mille Miglia collection.
After the pleasant chaos and hullabaloo that is the Baselworld 2016 trade show, where we were treated to numerous watch 'novelties', I would like to reflect upon an understated watch from Chopard – Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black – which deserves more attention.
Whilst most of the media frenzy reported the L.U.C introductions of a steel-cased, extra-flat watch (L.U.C 1860 XPS) and a new automatic perpetual calendar movement also encased in steel (L.U.C Perpetual Twin), fewer column-inches were devoted to the Chopard Mille Miglia range. I would like to redress this because there are many Chopard Mille Miglia owners amongst us.
Bottom Line
As 'Joe Cool' a.k.a. Snoopy used to say, "When in doubt, look Suave"
The CHOPARD Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black watch is just plain COOL
Now that I have got my conclusions out of the way, please read my review.....
First impressions.
When you first glimpse the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed Black, there is an overwhelming desire for "more". You either do a 'double take' and want to inspect it closer or just simply get tactile ! Whether you are a tyro or seasoned watch collector, you cannot help but be drawn to its sporty 'cool' or is that its 'cool' sportiness?
Black is the new Black.
The most obvious feature is the sheer 'blackness' of the whole timepiece, made gloriously light, by the blood red accents utilised both front and back. Your eye is drawn betwixt the oversized numerals (6 or 12) and the red bezel gasket at the front elevation. In truth, the colour is called 'Rossa Corsa' as a nod towards the vintage car Mille Miglia race that Chopard has sponsored since 1988.
There are actually 5 shades or textures of Black viewed from the front. Upon closer inspection, one can discern the subtle differences between the blackness of DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating on the steel case, black aluminium bezel with shiny black numerals, velvet-finish matte black dial and 'Dunlop tyre' patterned black rubber straps.
That is why you just have to stroke the case, lugs and bezel - just because.
The most obvious red accents are the bezel gaskets on the front and back of the watch. They delineate the areas covered by sapphire glass on the front and back of the watch. Perhaps the red is a boundary line of inaccessibility, where my errant fingers cannot touch the dial or mechanical movement; my dignified curiousity now in tatters! The red 1000 Miglia arrow signpost and seconds hand complete the trio of red accents on the front.
This new watch joins the Mille Miglia GTS collection launched in 2015, They are all powered by the in-house engine known as Cal. 01.01-M. The movement is distinguished by the distinctive grill cut-outs on the bridges and mainplates as well as the openworked rotor.
Attention to Detail
When you are not distracted by the attention to detail like the eight PVD-treated black screws that secure the caseback engraved with the inscription “Mille Miglia GTS Speed Black”, the tinted crystal surrounded by a bright red gasket exudes a sultry air of mystery. At certain angles, the recalcitrant tint obscures the view of the movement rather like an experienced burlesque artiste wielding one of her seven veils. It takes some eyestrain and handling to coax the little minx into revealing her inner pulchritude.
Its short, streamlined lugs – designed to mould against the curves of the wrist to perfection – ensure optimal comfort. Even for smaller wrists, it affords some succour. More attention to detail is demonstrated by the integrated black rubber strap inspired by 1960s Dunlop racing tyres and fastened by a black DLC-coated stainless steel folding clasp. The date disc background is matte black and of course, the winding crown is DLC treated to match the case.
Chopard Mille Miglia Speed Black Forebears
In contrast to the sublime elegance of the L.U.C collection, Chopard also plays the Sporty Chic of the Classic Racing division with Mille Miglia, Grand Prix de Monaco Historique and Superfast collections.
In the mists of Time, the first Chopard Mille Miglia GMT Chrono Speed Black ref. 168992-3023 was introduced in the early years of this millennium. It was a 1000-piece limited edition with black PVD coating on steel.
In 2007, the the Speed Chopard Mille Miglia GMT Chronograph Speed Black 2 ref. 168992-3004 was launched as a 1000-piece limited edition with black DLC (diamond like carbon) coating on steel.
There was even a rose gold bezel version of Miglia Miglia GMT Chrono Speed Black 2.
In 2008, the Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Speed Black 3 ref. 168459-3008 appeared as a 1000-piece limited edition with black DLC (diamond like carbon) coating on steel.
In 2009, a Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Split Second Speed Black ref. 168513-3002 was offered as a 1000-piece limited edition with black DLC (diamond like carbon) coating on steel.
High-precision watch ‘engine’
The impressive lines of the Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed black house an ‘engine’ boasting equally remarkable precision and performance. Chopard Calibre 01.01-M, entirely conceived, developed and assembled in the Chopard workshops, is chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC). Endowed with a generous 60-hour power reserve, this mechanical self-winding movement powers the hours, minutes, seconds and date functions.
Mille Miglia GTS Automatic Speed black
Technical details
Case:
Scratch-resistant DLC-coated blackened steel case
Total diameter 43.00 mm
Thickness 11.43 mm
Water-resistant to 100 metres
DLC-coated blackened steel crown 7.00 mm
Bezel with aluminium insert with shiny black numerals
Glareproof sapphire crystal
Exhibition back with Mille Miglia GTS Speed black inscription, red gasket and tinted crystal
PVD-coated case-back screws
Movement:
Self-winding movement Chopard 01.01-M
Total diameter 28.80 mm
Thickness 4.95 mm
Number of jewels 31
Frequency 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve approximately 60 hours
Chronometer-certified (COSC)
Dial and hands:
Velvet-finish matt black dial with white transfers and red gasket
Facetted hands, black metallised numerals and appliques painted with Superluminova
Red sweep-seconds hand
Functions:
Hours, minutes and seconds
Aperture-type date display at 3 o’clock
Strap and clasp:
Rubber strap inspired by 1960s Dunlop racing tyres
Beadblasted DLC-coated blackened stainless steel folding clasp
Ref. 168565-3002 – in DLC-coated stainless steel with a rubber strap
1,000-piece limited edition
Regards,
MTF
This message has been edited by MTF on 2016-04-26 14:21:02
The L.U.C 1860 reference is a notable offering within the L.U.C collection, distinguished by its focus on classical watchmaking principles and refined aesthetics. This particular model, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2023, represents a continuation of Chopard's commitment to high horology, emphasizing traditional craftsmanship and a discreet presentation. It is recognized for its balanced proportions and the integration of a finely finished movement, reflecting the brand's in-house manufacturing capabilities.
This reference features a case crafted from Lucent Steel, a proprietary alloy, measuring 36.5 mm in diameter. The watch is powered by the L.U.C 96.01-L automatic movement, which is visible through a sapphire crystal case back. This movement is equipped with a micro-rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 65 hours. The dial is presented in a salmon color, complemented by a sapphire crystal on the front.
Appealing to collectors who value understated design and mechanical integrity, the L.U.C 1860 fits into the brand's lineup as a dress watch with significant horological merit. Its limited production and specific material choices contribute to its appeal among enthusiasts seeking a watch that combines traditional watchmaking with contemporary material science. The model is a testament to Chopard's ongoing development in its L.U.C range.
Looks like the gateway drug to the LUC 8HF - nice watch and good to see that the whole range is being constantly updated.
Thankfully they have decided for white contrast. In general the all black with red looks fantastic. Also here... It seems like the: / First speed black model that is not a chronograph? / First speed black with a matte casing finish? / First MM with the M (not the C) movement. Should it become my first one? - only time will tell... Thanks for sharing and your accompanying words. Best regards Kolosstt
The Speed Black models have been intermittent through the years so we need to find out about the early years of this millennium. Definitely, the Limited Edition Speed Black 1, 2 and 3 were chronographs; the first two had GMT utility but the third was in a new case GT XL without GMT function. Ignoring the gold bezel and split second chronograph variants, we need to know if there were previous non-chronograph Speed Blacks. Then, we also have the confounding Speed Silver watches but that is another
I remember seeing some special Speed Black editions like some Cologne special edition I saw in Cologne. Chronograph, too. Speed Silver watcheS: do you know of more than one model? Cheers, Kolosstt
Officially, one Speed Silver model was issued in 2012 as the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Speed Silver It followed the 2011 launch of the Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono Rosso Corsa. They are both chronographs in titanium cases and are part of the new Chopard Racing Colours Collection . Mille Miglia GT XL Rosso Corsa and Mille Miglia GT XL Speed Silver The original Chopard Racing Colours collection watches are from 2002 / 2003, which were also Mille Miglia chronographs encased in titanium. In 2002, the
Colors explained and thank you MTF for taking your time to do so. Is my understanding correct that the second watch from the right would carry a print of an abbreviation "B R G" on the crystal of the panorama back? Although the dial almost looks black, thanks to you sharing your knowledge, the Racing Color Collection makes now perfectly sense to me. Thanks a lot and kind regards Kolosstt
This thread is active on the Chopard forum with 9 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
