Reference Guide
Gated.6, a passionate chronograph collector, seeks a specific blend of functionality and design: a 100m water-resistant chronograph without screw-down pushers, ideally under 13mm thick. This quest highlights a common dilemma for collectors who desire to actively use their mechanical chronographs in diverse environments, from daily timing tasks to aquatic activities with family, without compromising on wearability or immediate functionality. His detailed criteria set the stage for a community-driven exploration of suitable timepieces, both neo-vintage and contemporary.
Hey folks - looking for some help here.
I'm a big fan of chronos and own quite a few (favorite complication) but none that are without screw down pushers and that have a water resistance rating that allows me to swim with them. Have kids so we're constantly in and out of pools, the ocean, etc. The chronos just don't get worn because of this.
I'm looking for ideas for a 100m rated chrono that does not have screw down pushers. I find I habitually have to keep them screwed down which means they're never ready when I need them. How many things do you actually time? A lot. Cooking, kids, running a business, I time things frequently and love a good mechanical chronograph.
Was excited for the Blancpain Bathyscaphe in ceramic until I found the 15mm+ thickness so that's the other bit I'm up against, thickness. Would like something as close to or under 13mm as possible. I'm a big fan of the older Blancpain Lemans pieces (own a couple) but the screw down pushers become the problem. Also a Speedy fan (have a 321) but they don't carry the WR.
Ideal dims: under 42mm x 14mm. The closer to 40mm, the better and of course have never found myself wishing a watch was thicker.
Neo-vintage or more recent production is not a concern.
An interesting material like ceramic would be considered as well.
JLC Polaris Chrono is interesting but severely overpriced. Grey - still feel like it should be less expensive. Don't care for the older dials and the newer dials have the updated movement that only gives you a 30 minute counter at 9. Prefer a chronograph that will track hours as well as minutes.
JLC Deep Sea Chronograph - while slightly plain is a contender as well.
IWC 41 mm - Not a huge fan for any particular reason other than I'm not keen on the day display but could be a contender. 41mm, variety of materials, 100m WR.
Isotope Moonshot Chrono - bold for me but there is something I'm drawn to. A contender.
Zenith Defy 21 - have had 2x issues with El Primero movements in the past and really can't possibly consider again.
Royal Oak Offshore - too bulky and unreliable? Have an RO and have not been totally pleased with it
Tudor - Not a fan of styling
Hublot -No
Breitling - the B01 is an attractive package but Breitling brand / marketing keeps me away.
Piaget - Polo styling doesn't appeal
Panerai - would strangely consider as for some reason their aesthetic has appealed to me though the brand and reliability do not but have not come across the right reference.
Omega - the Dark Side of the Moon and Grey Side of the Moon are awesome pieces but just too big.
Rolex - not a fan. Have owned a Daytona and it did nothing for me.
Moser - would gladly entertain a Streamliner but the aesthetics of all current chronographs are not to my liking.
Breguet - Type XX styling does not appeal
GS / Seiko - My most widely owned brand but alas their pushers are almost always comically large.
Czapek - own an Antarctique not not looking to double up thought I do love a rattrapante
GO - own a SeaQ and have been disappointed with reliability. SeaQ chronograph also ends up too large.
B&R - have just never found the right model
UN - most of their styling is bold for my tastes (Freak and Freak X which I make an exception for)
Parmigiani Tonda PF Chrono is a strong contender but haven't come across a dial color that really grabs me. The new cermet version is outstanding but alas too expensive. Picture added to keep things interesting. Photo credit to Monochrome.
Blancpain Lemans - despite the screw down pushers, the dimensions on these are so great, that perhaps this is the way to go. Flyback always a plus.
Discovery approach has revolved around searching on C24 with filters of Chrono and 100m WR. Any other resources?
Would love your considered suggestions!
The Czapek Antarctique represents the brand's entry into the integrated bracelet sports watch category. Introduced in 2019, this 40mm reference features a blue dial configuration and continues in current production as part of the Antarctique series.
The stainless steel case measures 40mm in diameter with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 120 meters. The automatic Caliber SXH5 movement provides 60 hours of power reserve. The watch is fitted with a matching steel bracelet.
This reference targets collectors seeking a contemporary integrated bracelet design from an independent manufacturer. The blue dial variant offers color contrast within the Antarctique lineup, while the 40mm case size positions it as a mid-sized option in the series. The automatic movement and steel construction provide everyday practicality for those drawn to the brand's modern approach to sports watch design.
I've owned a number of chronos with screw-down pushers in the past, and: no more! One IWC suggestion: older Aquatimer chronos, ref. 3719. Not so thick and heavy as the current models. I owned and enjoyed a titanium model for several years, but they also do steel which has a more flexible, less toolish look than the fully matte ti that I owned.
I know I know, they changed the rating for all their watches to 30m recently but my take is that this was done in an effort to have all Pateks have the same water resistance. The new 30m are 100% for real and you can take em down to 30m no problem. Also I still believe that the 5980 and 5968 can do a lot more as they had been rated at 120m for many, many years. .
The SBGC line has relatively small, non-screw down pushers. Might be worth a look. I believe Habrings are all non screw down but have a WR of 50m, so you can comfortably swim with them
Just released. 100m water resistance, manual wound, 72 hours power reserve, fly back, 39x13,5mm thick! No screw down pushers! Meets all your requirements… Thinking about it myself.
Titanium, 300m WR, chrono with non-screw down pushers fully operational at depth The pushers look like they screw down, but they don’t.
As to what to get you seem to have thought of most of them and sorry I have no bright ideas. Marc
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