Manufacture
Alex's visit to the De Bethune workshops provides an intimate look into one of contemporary horology's most innovative independent brands. His report highlights De Bethune's scientific approach to watchmaking, constant innovation, and meticulous in-house production, offering readers a rare glimpse into the creation of these exceptional timepieces.
I have to start by saying how biased I am toward De Bethune! They represent for me one of the greatest contemporary independent brands in the sense that they are not content using traditional movements in funky designs but have an almost scientific approach to watchmaking, constantly innovating and pushing boundaries.
For me they represent 21st century watchmaking. I like to believe that if Breguet or Berthoud were alive they would not be creating watches using 18th century technology but would do what De Bethune is doing.
To give you an example since 2002, date of its foundation, De Bethune has created over 30 inhouse movements. The have developed and patented the world's first balance-wheel to incorporate silicon which they later used for other components such as escape-wheels, balance-springs, hands, bridges and collets. De Bethune has developed its own balance made of titanium/platinum, creating an ideal mass/ inertia ratio. a special its flat terminal curve in the balance spring enabling optimal rate performance and avoiding distortions. They have also developed a specific shock absorbtion system for both their automatic and manual wind watches.
So on a sunny April day I set out to Auberson to visit the workshops of this amazing brand. A brand set up in 2002 by two genies, each in their own field. David Zanetta a collector and connoisseur of vintage horology and watchmaker extraordinaire Denis Flagollet who had spent his career restoring vintage timepieces or creating movements for third parties.
Even though relatively small with a staff of about 12 and a production of less than 100 watches a year De Bethune makes almost all the components of its watches inhouse, including balance and balance springs!
The first room where I was taken to is where the CNC machines cut and mill the components, including screws and dials.
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
They wanted to put me in their showroom. No that is not what I intended. Lousy performance. Nevertheless pics of my De Bethune.
your wonderfully illustrated presentation was also wonderfully long... such a treat... I wished it would never end! de Bรฉthune encapsulate in a unique way a wonderful pioneering spirit. That of always pushing the limits of horlogy with unrivalled refinement, originality and style. The very best of contemporary horology. I had the massive privilege of visiting the manufactire some 4 to 5 years ago. What a memory! Unforgettable! de Bethune made me dream then and, oh boy, they still make me dream t
also proud to have a DB
I would add Romain Gauthier, Credor's Eichi II and RW Smith to the fray. I will exclude Mr Dufour since he is not producing anything at present
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