Independents
Ed. W recounts a highly anticipated visit to the De Bethune boutique in Geneva, offering a firsthand account of the brand's distinctive watches. This article highlights the unique aesthetic and technical characteristics that make De Bethune a standout independent watchmaker, from their highly polished titanium cases to innovative lug designs and advanced movement components.
De Bethune's watches have fascinated me for a long time, but for various reasons I had been unable to personally handle any of their pieces. Since I’m in Geneva, I decided to go by their boutique on La Place Longemalle. Store manager Kevin Bega was an excellent host and showed me plenty of De Bethune’s offerings. For a brand that produces around 400 pieces a year, it had a lot to offer, both aesthetically and technically.
Several things stood out to me about the watches. The first is how highly polished the titanium for many of the cases was, we usually see titanium as a dull sandblasted grey mass but De Bethune’s almost look like a combination of platinum and gunmetal. The second is how wearable its large 44mm and 42mm watches are, as an owner of 6.5-inch wrists, any number higher than 40mm is usually a good indication I shouldn’t even bother trying a watch on, but both the spring loaded lugs of the DB28 and the drop lugs of the DB25 Imperial Fountain Snake fit reasonably well. Other admirable characteristics include the black polished and interestingly shaped plates, round scale alligator lined straps (presumably by Camille Fournet), and use of silicum in the balance wheel and escapement and blued titanium for the 3D moon and other components.
I was glad to hear that the power reserve for most movements was 5 days (4 for the perpetual calendar). I’d perhaps like to see comfortable deployant clasps instead of the tang buckles, at least as an optional offering.
DB28 Skybridge movement
DB25 with power reserve (44mm)
DB28 Aiguille D’Or limited edition (42.6mm)
Movement of the DB28 Aiguille D’Or limited edition
DB16 Perpetual calendar Tourbillon Dead seconds (43mm)
DB25 Imperial Fountain-Sold in a set of 12 zodiacs. With mystery-style hands
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
I love DeBethune. The blue hues always captivate me and the perpetual calendar with the spherical moonphase is just magnificent.
Let me say first that your pictures are amazing, very bright and sharp. M. Bega is indeed a really nice DB ambassador. Thanks for sharing Ed. Mark PS: the DB25 pics is of the 40 mm version (PR integrated in the Hour ring and different hour hand base), not the 44 mm This is the 44mm :
I can't correct it now but if any moderators can, I'd appreciate it. Also, the firs photo is not the back of the sky bridge but rather the DB28T I believe. This was 3 weeks ago and my memory is a bit hazy. Glad you like the photos!
It is great that you could have such a nice journey into the capitol of watches! Thanks, Ed! Ken
in first photo i s the DB25 Imperial Fountain.
and great clear pictures Ed! I have been to the boutique and agree they hold many fabulous pieces. Thanks for sharing, Andrew
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