De Bethune JPS Diver & Patek Philippe 5070 Hands-On
Independents

De Bethune JPS Diver & Patek Philippe 5070 Hands-On

By m2 · May 31, 2026 · 24 replies
m2
WPS member · Independents forum
24 replies779 views6 photos
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m2's visit to the 1916 store in Miami offers a firsthand account of experiencing high-end independent watchmaking, particularly De Bethune and Patek Philippe. His observations on specific models, including the De Bethune JPS diver and the Patek Philippe 5070, provide valuable insights into their in-person appeal and design nuances. This post serves as an excellent resource for collectors considering these distinctive timepieces.

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I've been in Miami all week for a work thing and had some meetings strategically close to the 1916 store.  the standout piece for me was definitely the De Bethune JPS diver. I didn't realize that the outer bezel was so reflective. It looks great and the light-up feature is super cool.

The other piece I can definitely see myself adding is one of the dressy models, which look amazing in person but you do lose the flexible lugs that De Bethune is known for, which is kind of a shame. 

Really loved the 5070, even more than I expected in person. The case is a real standout, and honestly I think it kind of gives Patek the edge over a lot of other chronographs available in the same price point. Kind of makes the Datograph look very boring by comparison 

I didn't take any pictures, but the kind of blue XS was there, and another XS model as well. These are both a little bit smaller, and they look a lot more modern than the OG DB28. I think I like them more because of that. It is a bit of a shame to lose the moon phase the DB is known for, but everything is give and take, I guess. Another interesting thing is the finishing seems to be better on the newer pieces, specifically the bridges. I noticed the angles are sharper near the ends. Do I think this is a huge deal? Not really, but it's probably worth pointing out. 




Watch by AHCI and independent haute horlogerie, DB28, De Bethune









About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber
DB2105
Case
18k White Gold
Diameter
44.5 mm
Dial
Silver
Water Resist.
30m
Crystal
Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

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The Discussion
QU
quattro
May 31, 2026
Some very nice pieces here.

Thanks for sharing. Best, Emmanuel

AR
ArmisT
May 31, 2026
I love DB models with the JPS aesthetic/colorways, including the one you highlighted.

And I completely agree with your point about how nice some of their dressier models are except for the fact that they don’t use the floating lugs, which is a key feature for me. Great wrist shots in your post, thanks for sharing.

M2
m2
May 31, 2026
Yes once you’ve worn something with the db floating lugs it’s hard to go back

GO
Goh
May 31, 2026
Thanks for these wrist shots.

I love that DB25 QP.

AM
amanico
May 31, 2026
The GF and the DB on your second to last photo, for me. As for the 5070, it is a very interesting Patek. You should try to score one!

M2
m2
May 31, 2026
They had one there too but I forgot to take a pic

It was fantastic. Probably my favorite due to the case and overall aesthetic

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