m2's visit to the 1916 store in Miami offers a firsthand account of experiencing high-end independent watchmaking, particularly De Bethune and Patek Philippe. His observations on specific models, including the De Bethune JPS diver and the Patek Philippe 5070, provide valuable insights into their in-person appeal and design nuances. This post serves as an excellent resource for collectors considering these distinctive timepieces.
I've been in Miami all week for a work thing and had some meetings strategically close to the 1916 store. the standout piece for me was definitely the De Bethune JPS diver. I didn't realize that the outer bezel was so reflective. It looks great and the light-up feature is super cool.
The other piece I can definitely see myself adding is one of the dressy models, which look amazing in person but you do lose the flexible lugs that De Bethune is known for, which is kind of a shame.
Really loved the 5070, even more than I expected in person. The case is a real standout, and honestly I think it kind of gives Patek the edge over a lot of other chronographs available in the same price point. Kind of makes the Datograph look very boring by comparison
I didn't take any pictures, but the kind of blue XS was there, and another XS model as well. These are both a little bit smaller, and they look a lot more modern than the OG DB28. I think I like them more because of that. It is a bit of a shame to lose the moon phase the DB is known for, but everything is give and take, I guess. Another interesting thing is the finishing seems to be better on the newer pieces, specifically the bridges. I noticed the angles are sharper near the ends. Do I think this is a huge deal? Not really, but it's probably worth pointing out.
About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25
De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25
The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.
The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.
Specifications
- Caliber
- DB2105
- Case
- 18k White Gold
- Diameter
- 44.5 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire
About the De Bethune DB28 Ref. DB28
De Bethune DB28 Reference DB28
The DB28 represents De Bethune's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie, featuring the brand's distinctive floating lug design within a 42.6mm case format. This reference showcases the manufacture's technical capabilities through its extended power reserve specification and proprietary movement caliber.
The 42.6mm titanium case houses the manual-winding caliber DB2115, delivering a 120-hour power reserve. The silver dial is protected by sapphire crystal, while the characteristic floating lugs define the case architecture. Water resistance extends to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap.
This reference appeals to collectors focused on independent Swiss manufacture capabilities and contemporary case design. The DB28 represents De Bethune's technical approach to manual-winding movements, particularly notable for collectors interested in extended power reserve complications. Production commenced in 2010, positioning this reference within the brand's modern catalog offerings.
Specifications
- Caliber
- DB2115
- Case
- Titanium
- Diameter
- 42.6 mm
- Dial
- Silver
- Water Resist.
- 30m
- Crystal
- Sapphire