Derek Pratt & Kari Voutilainen The Oval Independent

quattro · 2025-05-02T09:44:11Z

Explore 'The Oval,' a masterpiece by Derek Pratt & Kari Voutilainen, inspired by Breguet. Discover its detent escapement, tourbillon, and unique oval design.

quattro

WPS member · Independents forum

24 replies4057 views55 photos

Emmanuel, known as 'quattro' on WatchProSite, presents an extraordinary deep dive into 'The Oval,' a horological masterpiece by Derek Pratt, with finishing by Kari Voutilainen. This article meticulously traces the watch's lineage from its inspiration in an Abraham-Louis Breguet oval pocket watch to its recent auction. Emmanuel's detailed exploration provides invaluable context for understanding the profound artistry and technical prowess embodied in this unique independent watchmaking creation.

Inspired by an oval pocket watch made by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), the English watchmaker Derek Pratt (1938-2009) created his own oval pocket watch.

Featuring a detent escapement, a tourbillon with integrated constant force mechanism, as well as a thermometer, a power reserve display and a moon phase, it is his masterpiece.

He started working on it in 1982. In 1985, financial constraints led him to sell the watch in its raw state to Peter Baumberger (1939-2010), who had acquired the Urban Jürgensen brand in 1981: thus the Urban Jürgensen name on the dial and movement.

He worked on this watch until 2004, making absolutely everything himself and by hand (including the oval crystal), when, suffering from cancer, he became too weak to continue. Peter Baumberger therefore asked his permission to entrust Kari Voutilainen with the finishing of the watch, the ébauche of which was fully completed.

In 2005, Peter Baumberger sold the watch to Dr Helmut Crott, who, after twenty years of ownership decided to part with it last year: The Oval was sold as Lot 40 at the Phillips Auction "Reloaded: The Rebirth of Mechanical Watchmaking 1980-1999" on November 28, 2024.

Let's have a look.

Best, Emmanuel

A/ THE SOURCE OF INSPIRATION: the OVAL POCKET WATCH n° 1682/4761 by ABRAHAM-LOUIS BREGUET featuring a THERMOMETER

In an article published in the issue of Horological Journal published in April 1993, Derek Pratt explained:

“As a child I had been fascinated by oval tins. My own interest in oval watches stems right back to those examples, but on seeing the oval Breguet N°1682/4761 in the little book by Claude Breguet, A. L. Breguet, Horloger, I felt positively inspired and resolved to make an oval watch myself… The watch was mostly realised as an homage to some of the most preeminent watchmakers of all time, like Abraham-Louis Breguet, John Arnold, and Professor Alfred Helwig.”

First made in 1822 for Count Panin, this Breguet watch has been owned by famous polish-born American pianist Arthur Rubinstein (1887-1982):

credit: sotheby’s & wikipedia (Rubinstein)

B/ "THE OVAL" by DEREK PRATT & KARI VOUTILAINEN

1/ THE WATCH FACE

a) GLOBAL VIEW

The highly legible indications include:

Central hours/minutes hands
Large subseconds at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator on the upper left part of the dial
Thermometer on the upper right section
Moonphase display at noon

b) CLOSE UPS

2/ THE MOVEMENT

a) GLOBAL VIEW

Out of the case and with the Tourbillon removed:

b) CLOSE UPS

THE BARREL

The winding square (the socket that accepts the key for winding the watch):

The cone for the power reserve indicator:

THE CENTRAL MINUTE-WHEEL BRIDGE & PLATE ENGRAVINGS

THE TOURBILLON WITH INTEGRATED REMONTOIR

UNDER THE DIAL

Here, the dial, tourbillon cage and moon phase disk have been removed.

Upper section: large third wheel of the gear train and mounting holes of the lantern bearing of flying tourbillon

Center section: motion works.

Lower section: mainspring barrel’s ratchet wheel with integrated Maltese stop work, intermediate gears for winding, as well as power-reserve gears on the right of the barrel, and bimetallic spring of the thermometer on the lower left.

THE ÉBAUCHE BEFORE VOUTILAINEN'S FINISHING

3/ THE CASES OF THE WATCH & THE WATCH IN ITS BOX WITH CHAIN AND WINDING KEY

After the original silver case made by Derek Pratt, a platinum one and a rose gold one were made between 2005 and 2006 by Bruno Affolter, a case maker in La Chaux-de-Fonds now known as Les Artisans Boîtiers (and a sister company of Parmigiani).

4/ DEREK PRATT & HIS BUSINESS CARD (adorned with a drawing of The Oval)

5/ PETER BAUMBERGER WITH THE OVAL

credit to all photos above: Sjx, @watchcollector7 (first global view of watch face & movement with watch held in the hand) & Phillips (only for watch in its box, business card & Peter Baumberger)

6/ LINKS FOR IN-DEPTH READING

In-Depth: The Unique and Magical Oval Tourbillon Watch by Derek Pratt by Dr Helmut Crott on Sjx
Hands On: Urban Jürgensen and Derek Pratt Oval Pocket Watch by JX Su on Sjx

Interview with Dr Helmut Crott by Marc André Deschoux

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

De Bethune DB25 Reference DB25

The DB25 represents De Bethune's entry in the 44.5mm manual-wind category, distinguished by its silver dial configuration within the DB25 series. This reference launched in 2006 and continues the brand's approach to contemporary haute horlogerie complications.

The 44.5mm case is crafted from 18k white gold with a fixed bezel and sapphire crystal. Water resistance extends to 30 meters. The manual-winding caliber DB2105 movement provides a substantial 120-hour power reserve. The watch features a leather strap attachment.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking De Bethune's technical approach to timekeeping in a precious metal case. The extended power reserve and manual-wind operation position it for enthusiasts who appreciate hands-on interaction with their timepieces. The 44.5mm sizing places it in contemporary proportions within the independent watchmaking segment.

Specifications

Caliber: DB2105

Case: 18k White Gold

Diameter: 44.5 mm

Dial: Silver

Water Resist.: 30m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Breguet oval pocket watch N°1682, dating from 1822, predates the 'Reine de Naples' collection's claim of being the first wristwatch designed for Caroline Murat, who purchased watches between 1808 and 1814.
The motto 'Invenit et Fecit' (Invented and Made), prominently featured on 'The Oval,' was used by several watchmakers prior to F.P. Journe, indicating a historical tradition rather than a unique claim by Journe.
The 'Oval' watch represents horology at its highest level, with both the front and back being equally impressive. A notable design achievement is the display of all complications without any cutting or missing indications at points of conjunction, demonstrating insane attention to detail.
The extensive research and documentation required for such a detailed article are highly valued by the community, serving as a comprehensive reference point for complex horological subjects.

The Discussion

Arronax

May 2, 2025

Borderline sensory overload!

ZSHSZ

May 2, 2025

I’ve seen the video and amazed by the story of this art work. This is horology at the highest level, front and back equally impressive. What I like most is the respect for indications on the dial, all the functions being displayed without cutting or missing indications at the points of conjunction! Insane attention to details… Great work as always.

quattro

May 2, 2025

When I dive deep into a topic which I find quite fascinating and for which there are so many good photos, I find it hard to restrain myself. Thanks for looking. Best, Emmanuel

quattro

May 2, 2025

I completely agree with you: great attention to details and wonderful display of the different elements. Best, Emmanuel

Ronald Held

May 2, 2025

Allowed to comment on that watch.

quattro

May 2, 2025

The oval pocket watch n° 1682 dates from 1822, whereas Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples, is said to have purchased 34 clocks between 1808 and 1814. And the Reine de Naples collection is presented as follows by the website: "This collection is a free interpretation of the first watch designed to be worn on the wrist, created by A.-L. Breguet for Caroline Murat." Best, Emmanuel

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Derek Pratt & Kari Voutilainen The Oval Independent

About the De Bethune DB25 Ref. DB25

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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