Most Extreme Dive Watches: Reference Guide

Cookies · 2021-08-01T15:02:47Z

Explore the most over-engineered dive watches, from Hublot Oceanographic 4000m to Seiko Tuna. Discover extreme depth ratings, unique designs, and collector insights on WatchProSite.

WPS member · Horological Meandering forum

38 replies12770 views9 photos

In a quest to revisit the "good old days under the sea" during lockdown, forum member Cookies ignited a lively discussion on WatchProSite by showcasing what he considers the most over-engineered dive watches. His initial post serves as a compelling starting point for enthusiasts to explore the boundaries of horological engineering in extreme underwater timepieces, inviting the community to contribute their own insights and expand the list of these remarkable instruments.

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9 of the most over-engineered Dive Watches I can think of at the moment. Please help me add more suggestions. I'm writing this post because the lockdown made life so dull, and I want to reminisce the good old days under the sea.

The Hublot Oceanographic 4000m

Credit: Unique Watch Guide

At 48mm, this beast released around 2011 features an internal rotating bezel, screw down crowns, and a quick release strap system. It was priced around USD19,000 for the titanium version.

Pita Oceana

Credit: Hodinkee

This watch is very unique, featuring a crown-less design. The watch is adjusted via turning the caseback, which activates magnets to adjust the time, making it hermatically protected from water ingress. There are a few versions available, ranging from 2000m to 5000m water resistance. The creator Mr Aniceto Jimenez is an ACHI member. The 5000m version costs about USD$6400. Fellow forum member cfdfire told me about this wonderful oddball.

Helberg CH1 - A Homage to the Deep Sea Special

Credit: Oceanictime Blogspot

This oddball is a tribute to the Rolex prototype called the Deep Sea Special. It is not a large watch in diameter (42mm), but rather, extremely thick, at around 27mm in height. It reminds me of the Corum Bubble Watch. There are 6000m and 3000m water resistance versions, and a few variations in case materials. It costs less than USD1500 according to sources.

Ulysse Nardin Diver Deep Dive

Credit: Escapement Magazine

Coming in at 46mm, this beautiful piece has a water resistance of 1000m. The crown guard protecting the Helium Escape Valve is published to be removable. The price is quite good, at USD$13,2000.

Richard Mille RM28

Source: Ablogtowatch

Extremely avante garde is what I think of when I see this piece. It is like a piece of art, in a brawny way. It is drop-dead beautiful (or may I say Handsome). The water resistance is pretty normal at 300m, for a dive watch. But seeing one reminds me of Sylvester Stallone in The Expendables 3. It is a very expensive watch, coming in north of USD50,000 (from some sources). Brauner has one I think (wow, he is so blessed).

IWC Deep One, Two and Three

Deep One: Credit: Antiquorum

Deep Two: Credit: Worldtempus

Deep 3: Credit: Hodinkee

Wow these are gorgeously over-engineered. Nico wrote about the Deep One some time ago.

Angular Momentum Dive Tec

Credit: Ablogtowatch

This brand is still around. The watch is very unique as you can see. It is made of unique Stainless Steel, and features a water resistance of 500m. The price is around USD8000 from my estimates (the price is not listed on the website). Does any member have this piece?

About the Richard Mille Diver Ref. RM028

The RM028 represents Richard Mille's dive watch offering within the brand's numbered series lineup. This reference served as the manufacturer's primary diving-focused timepiece during its production period from 2009 to 2018, distinguished by its skeletonized dial treatment and technical diving specifications.

The 40mm titanium case houses the automatic RMAC2 caliber, providing 55 hours of power reserve. Technical features include a rotating unidirectional bezel, sapphire crystal, and 300-meter water resistance suitable for recreational diving. The skeletonized dial reveals the movement architecture beneath, while a rubber strap completes the sports-oriented configuration.

This reference appeals to collectors seeking Richard Mille's interpretation of the dive watch category, combining the brand's characteristic skeletonized aesthetic with functional diving capabilities. The titanium construction and moderate 40mm case size position the RM028 as an accessible entry point within the Richard Mille catalog, offering technical diving features alongside the brand's distinctive visual approach to dial design.

Specifications

Caliber: RMAC2

Case: Titanium

Diameter: 40 mm

Dial: Skeletonized

Water Resist.: 300m

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Sinn UX is highlighted as an ultimate diver's watch due to its 7-year battery life, unlimited water depth rating, anti-reflection properties, and 'almost' scratch-resistant casing, offering amazing wearability due to its slim profile and minimal maintenance.
While praising the Sinn UX's case design, Cookies notes its proprietary strap as a weakness, suggesting the version with standard lugs, as shared by fellow member Crown Comfort, would be a more practical choice.
The Seiko 'Tuna' series, including the original 1975 'Grandfather Tuna' (51mm), newer PADI version (50mm), and the 48mm hybrid 'Arnie Tuna,' are presented as iconic examples of excessively over-engineered dive watches.
The Rolex Deepsea and Blancpain X Fathoms are proposed as additional contenders for extreme dive watches, known for their robust construction and impressive depth ratings.
A user shares their experience with a smaller, 42mm version of a 'sea monster' dive watch, emphasizing its substantial presence despite its reduced diameter.
Cookies expresses regret that Jaeger-LeCoultre no longer produces dive watches with the 'macho masculine flavor' of their past, suggesting the brand has shifted towards more gentlemanly designs.

The Discussion

Juliusotto

Aug 1, 2021

JLC Master Compressor Diving GMT or the chronograph model at 1000m ?

Aug 1, 2021

Quite sad they don’t make them anymore. I think the brand lost the macho masculine flavour along the years. Now even most masculine piece in the catalogue, the Polaris Mariner looks more gentlemanly in design. I used to like JLC. They are sleeping I guess.

Aug 1, 2021

It may become a classic in due time. It is really functional and the titanium shows a blue sheen under water. I had the navy seals alarm.

brauner

Aug 1, 2021

Not so bad Credit: watchtime.net

Aug 1, 2021

I like it Brauner. Always great to hear from you.

Aug 1, 2021

Credit to Superdoc on Omegaforum

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About the Richard Mille Diver Ref. RM028

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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