Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1.3 Platinum Chronometer

MTF introduces the Chronomètrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3, a platinum-cased chronometer that debuted in late 2017. This article delves into the philosophy behind Ferdinand Berthoud's contemporary creations, emphasizing how the brand translates historical horological genius into modern timepieces rather than merely reinterpreting past designs. MTF highlights the significance of the platinum case and the nuanced dial, inviting readers to appreciate the brand's commitment to excellence.

On the 28th September 2017, the third version of Chronomètrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1 chronometer was launched in a platinum case. KIH has already posted his personal photographs on this forum CLICK

FB 1.3

Here are the technical details and some personal thoughts.

The mechanical innovations of the FB 1 chronometer have already been reported back in 2015 on PuristSPro:

New Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud watch Launch Report, VIDEO and Photos from Paris [CLICK]

Review New Chronometer Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 watch: part 1 - Movement [CLICK]

Review New Chronometer Ferdinand Berthoud FB 1 watch: part 2 - Case and Dial [CLICK]

There is no need to reiterate the wonders of its “suspended tourbillon”, “constant force escapement” or “fusee-and-chain transmission”.

We already know those features resulted in the “Aiguille d’or” Grand Prix award at the 2016 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. FB 1.1 had a white gold case and FB 1.2 was warmer in rose gold.

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

The Heart of the Matter

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele

Ostensibly, the FB 1.3 may appear to be just a change of case material to platinum but there is more than meets the eye. It is all about Heart.

Mr Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronomètrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, explained the guidance the team adhered to during the development of FB 1 watch:
“We sought to transpose what Ferdinand Berthoud might have created if he was living now. The contemporary translation of his genius consists of drawing inspiration from the master-horologist’s most remarkable accomplishments, in order to offer modern creations, bearing reinterpreted distinctive features and evoking emblematic historical constructions.”

Master Watchmaker

It is important to note that the driving philosophy of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD was not to produce a tribute, a reproduction or even a reinterpretation. The goal is a contemporary translation of the quest for excellence that Berthoud demonstrated as a master horologist who was appointed clockmaker to the French King and the French Navy.

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

The platinum case adds the gravitas of a nobler metal that frames the partially openworked nickel silver dial, that has evoked a dichotomy of design opinion. Where there has been more consensus is the understated and attractive play on colours between the dial and case. The satin-brushed nickel silver dial allows glimpses of the wheel driving the tourbillon carriage and the seconds wheel to which the central seconds hand is affixed. Thus, the 60-seconds rotating tourbillon does not indicate the sweeping seconds directly.

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

This slim black hand sweeps around a translucent sapphire railtrack circle around the rim of the dial. The hours and minutes are offset at 12 o’clock on a black lacquered subdial bearing white Arabic numerals and white gold cut-out hands. The same black shade also graces the chamfered edges of the dial openings.

The Illuminated Octagon

Chronometer by Ferdinand Berthoud

Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, President of Chronométrie FERDINAND BERTHOUD, has been assembling a major collection of time measurement artefacts in the L.U.CEUM: an in-house museum at Chopard, Fleurier with remarkable works by Ferdinand Berthoud.

Case Components

The Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 has all the aesthetic and technical features of previous versions: FB 1.1 in 18-carat white gold and FB 1.2 in 18-carat rose gold. The new case is 44mm in diameter composed of a 950 platinum cylinder containing the movement and flanked by two octagonal-shaped side pieces in polished platinum. The octagon shape was inspired by an overhead view of a marine chronometer fitted inside its case: its round shape is cut through by the arms of the gimbal suspension that holds it in place when the ship is at sea. Remember that Berthoud designed marine chronometers.

Horloge de marine Nr.6 by Berthoud 1777

The grey ceramic lugs are secured to the case middle by two titanium bolts and the platinum crown is also adorned with a ceramic medallion.

Four ‘portholes’ cut out from the sides of the case, allow appreciation of the fusee-and-chain mechanism and light to illuminate the movement. 

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

Creme de la creme finishing

Assembling of the tourbillon cage and the spiral

The stainless steel arrow-shaped tourbillon bridge is decorated with the utmost care: the upper side is specular polished, the flanks are straight-grained, the angles are polished and the underside is circular-grained and smooth polished. All levels of the tourbillon carriage, with its titanium components, are entirely chamfered. Some surfaces are polished, others circular satin-brushed, sandblasted or smooth polished. The lever bridge is entirely chamfered, while its visible side features a specular-polished finish and its invisible side is straight-grained.

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 - Power reserve cone

Further up in the gear train, the power-reserve cone is mirror-polished across its inner surface, while the upper and undersides are circular satin-brushed.

Two small steel plates are screwed to the cover of the barrel drum: one bears the watch’s limited-edition number, while the other is left blank to be engraved with the initials of its future owner.

Calibre FB-T.FC

The 790-part chain measuring 285 mm long is also entirely hand-finished. The sides and studs are satin-brushed and the flat surfaces are polished.

Fusee chain assembly

Less is More

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 - barrels

The watch has 53 hours of power reserve squeezed into a constant torque movement only 7.96 mm thick because its mainspring barrel and fusee are reversed, upside down, and suspended – meaning they are held on one side only.

This helps save a few precious millimetres to be the thinnest in its category (patent filed).

Power reserve indicator cone

The Money Shot

The materials and hand-finishing are of noble standards. No error, imperfection or insufficiency is tolerated.

You have to see and feel this watch against your wrist to truly appreciate the tour de force that it is. The winding of the large-diameter knurled crown is the smoothest there is and it engages the lucky – and obviously wealthy – owner every two days for as long as he wants to commune with this superlative and certified chronometer (Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute [COSC]).

Final assembling of the movement

The FB-T.FC movement is built as a pillar-type construct; a truly unique thing on the contemporary watchmaking scene. This hand-wound movement features 15 bridges and three half-bridges in nickel silver, framed by polished titanium pillars surrounding the mechanical organs.

This construction is typical of 18th century marine chronometers, and enables the portholes of the Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3 to reveal the interior of the watch.

Calibre FB-T.FC

This is truly the “money shot”.

This alone is reason enough to get the watch!

Regards,

MTF

  
FB 1.3 Specifications

Platinum and ceramic 50-piece limited and numbered edition USD 260,400

CASE

• Bimetallic in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic lug elements
Total diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 mm
Water resistance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 metres
Crown diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . .9 mm
Numbered edition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .   01/50 to 50/50
• Dynamometric crown (uncoupling device) in platinum (PT 950) with anthracite grey ceramic medallion
• Octagonal case fitted with four watertight portholes in glare-proofed sapphire crystal
• Mounting bolts in titanium
• Screw-in case-back with glareproofed sapphire crystal
• Domed, arched and glareproofed sapphire crystal

DIAL

• Vertical satin-finish dial made of solid nickel silver material
• Cut-out centre and power reserve chamfered by hand and black rhodium-plated
• Off-set hours and minutes in matte black-lacquered subdial, white Arabic numerals
• Seconds scale in matte translucent sapphire surrounding the dial
• Power-reserve scale engraved on the main plate “0_1/4_1/2_3/4_1”
• Degree of autonomy indicated by an arrow pointing to the French words “HAUT” (high) and “BAS” (low)
• Inscription: “CHRONOMÈTRE VAL-DE-TRAVERS SUISSE”

HANDS

• 18-carat white gold dagger-shaped hours and minutes hands, openworked and facetted
• 18-carat gold black nickel-plated dagger-shaped power-reserve hand with curved triangular tip
• Bronze black nickel-plated central sweep-seconds hand

STRAP

• One-piece hand-sewn rolled-edge black alligator leather strap (115 x 75 mm, buckle 20 mm) (Different sizes available on request)
• Double-blade adjustable-length safety folding clasp in platinum (PT 950) (Pin buckle available on request)

Chronomètre FERDINAND BERTHOUD FB 1.3

MOVEMENT

• Hours, minutes, seconds and power reserve

Mechanical hand-wound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Calibre FB-T.FC
Diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35.50 mm
Thickness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7.96 mm
Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 ¾
Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Frequency . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21,600 v/h (3 Hz)
Power reserve . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .53 hours

• Tourbillon with fusee-and-chain transmission (constant-force device)
Suspended fusee with differential based winding device (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended barrel with Maltese cross stop work device (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended power reserve device with mobile cone (PATENT PENDING)
Suspended tourbillon with direct-drive seconds (PATENT PENDING)

• Variable-inertia balance-wheel integrating 2 balance weights sets (gold-plated nickel-silver material)
• Balance spring with hand-shaped Philips terminal curve (steel material)
• Swiss lever escapement
• Nickel-silver half-bridges supported by stylised titanium pillars
• Hand-finished to the highest standards

Parts . . . . . . .  . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .  1120 (incl. the chain)
Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .790 elements
Chain length . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .285 mm
Half-bridges . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Pillars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

TOURBILLON

Rotation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  1 / minute
Parts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  . . . . . .  67
Carriage. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .  Ø 16.55 mm (titanium material)
Tourbillon carriage fixed by . . . . . . . . . .. . . .. . . . . . . . . . Three polished titanium pillars.
Tourbillon carriage poised by . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Two 18-carat gold studs
Balance wheel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Ø 12 mm (copper-beryllium)