Collection
Jay (Eire) presents a compelling case for a significant collection swap, moving from one manual-wind chronograph to another that, while similar in function, diverges dramatically in aesthetics and horological philosophy. His post delves into the nuanced differences between a universally acclaimed 'game changer' and a piece often misconstrued as a 'novelty,' inviting readers to reconsider their perceptions of modern chronographs and the F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain.
(I used this same text in a previous post but since not many of you either did not see it or decided not to play the guessing game I proposed I decided to recycle it here as it’s still relevant. I hope you can excuse the recycling).
Towards the end of last year I effected a material swap in my collection; one manual wind chronograph out another manual wind chronograph in.
That is where the obvious similarities between these two watches end, and aesthetically they couldn’t be any more different.
One is firmly seated in its place as a game changer for modern chronographs, a watch that made several manufacturers “wake up” and eventually push their own development of a “peer in house chronograph”.
The other is often seen as a novelty, and not in the usual (complimentary) sense of the word as it’s used in horology. A bit of a rogue piece, more bluster than substance I’ve heard certain collectors say.
One is finished to a point that is beyond question for “mass production” (you know what I mean by this) and carries a movement with depth that has never disappointed any eye or camera lens.
The other, eh, yes it’s finished. But in terms of movement there is nothing else like it either; its material composition or the approach to the “complication”.
At the time I had asked “So, what left and what came in? Can you guess?” There were a handful of replies and one watch was identified by some (the Datograph). The Datograph was the watch which left the collection.
The incoming was not among those that people guessed, I thought my clues were helpful but apparently not.
In any event as you now see the new watch is yet another Journe for me, but this time one which is more in line with my natural style. A sports watch.
It took me a long long time to see any attraction in this watch, and the Centigraphe line in general. I’ve stated before that this collection “has a face (dial) that only a mother could love”. Well, I guess after years of looking at it a mother can love an ugly child just as much!!
I did have some debate about the ALU version and the TI, as you can see I went with the TI in the end although it was a close call. I will expand on that decision at a later point.
I’ve been wearing the watch now for a few months and generally I’m very pleased and believe it was the right choice. More thoughts on this to follow also.
For now I close out this François Friday with a few pictures.
Have a good weekend all.
The F.P. Journe Centigraphe Souverain represents the brand s approach to chronograph complications within the Souverain collection. This reference features the specialized caliber 1506 movement and carries the distinctive Centigraphe designation, positioning it as F.P. Journe s chronograph offering in their manual-winding lineup.
The 40mm case is crafted from 18k rose gold and fitted with a sapphire crystal. The silver dial provides the backdrop for the chronograph functions. The manual-winding caliber 1506 movement delivers an 80-hour power reserve. Water resistance is rated to 30 meters, and the watch is completed with a leather strap. The fixed bezel maintains clean proportions around the case perimeter.
This reference appeals to collectors seeking F.P. Journe s interpretation of chronograph mechanics in precious metal construction. Production began in 2007, establishing this as part of the contemporary F.P. Journe catalog. The Centigraphe attracts those interested in independent watchmaking combined with traditional manual-winding chronograph complications, offering substantial power reserve within the 40mm rose gold case format.
Couldn’t you find space for both [iconic] pieces in your collection? One would have been dressy and one sporty. Either way, I commend you on following your heart. The Datograph has always been my grail, but we are living in the FPJ era. Happy Francois Friday!
The skeletonised sundials oooh Enjoy yours my friend I know I’m enjoying mine
Will have to try one on the wrist in the near future.
But in reality the prudent decision was one out one in. I enjoyed the Datograph for several years, but it is (and will always be) easily replaceable / reacquired and so that was a factor in letting it go honestly. There are other watches which are not so easily reacquired and for those the decision would have been much harder. The “FPJ era” is irrelevant to me, I have been an owner since long before he had the momentum and recognition he now has. Furthermore the Centigraphe (in all forms) has no
I first had one on my wrist not long after launch. And then again shortly later when another collector I know socially acquired one. It’s the unbelievable lightness which impressed me most. Aside from RM there really isn’t another sports watch that comes to mind which wears so easily on the wrist. And both the ALU and this TI versions are visually impressive (or different).
You were an early adopter for the Centigraphe, and others here too. It was a close decision for me on the ALU versus the TI, I think I would have been happy either way. The TI is for me a little more everyday wearable and that pushed the decision.
This thread is active on the F.P. Journe forum with 16 replies. Share your knowledge with fellow collectors.
Join the Discussion →
