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Crown comfort challenges the prevailing notion that the 1980s were a 'lost decade' for design, particularly in horology. While acknowledging the era's often-maligned fashion and automotive trends, he spotlights the Girard-Perregaux Chronograph 7000 line as a potential hidden gem. His post encourages collectors to reconsider 80s watch aesthetics through a modern lens, suggesting that some pieces, like the GP 7000, offer unexpected style and effort.
I think we are all observing the trend that the 70ies are very fashionable right now. Watches from the 70ies are really sought after and demand is outpacing supply.
But what about the 80ies? No way, the 80ies!!!
The decade of the worst haircuts:
That’s not me!!!
The decade of shoulder pads:
Look at the phone!
The decade of questionable taste in music (of course with some exceptions):
Not “Too Shy”…brrrrr
The decade of calculator watches:
a school boy’s wet dream
And weird looking cars:
downforce of an F16 jet flying up-side-down
There can’t possibly be anything interesting for a Purist watch collector, right?
Well, maybe time to rethink. In the late 80ies, Girard-Perregaux introduced the Chronograph 7000 line.
When looking at these watches with a modern eye, we easily dismiss them as 80ies look. True, but when you put them into perspective of other 80ies design failures, then probably one can see the fine effort and style of these watches.
What makes the 7000 Chronograph line interesting is that although it was created in the late 80ies, it remained in the catalogue till then end of the 90ies and during those 10 years has seen a number of slight updates and also a vast amount of different dial designs and case material combinations. We are talking about white, white/black, white/gold, blue, blue/gold, black, black/gold, red/gold, gold and and and in steel or gold or steel/gold combination cases.
The most prominent feature of the 7000 line is the polished flat bezel with the engraved tachy scale and its triangular chronograph pushers, same as on the Richeville 2750. The straight lugs add to the 80ies style and we can also see those in the GP Traveller and Sea Hawk lines from that time period.
The case diameter is 38mm, so just right and width between lugs is standard 20mm, providing a wide choice of possible straps.
Hunting and finding a Chronograph 7000 is relatively easy. There are still many many around, however, as always there is a catch.
Mainly, the most difficult part is to decide which of the many versions is the one that someone likes most. Secondly, finding a good condition is also not that simple. The polished bezel easily attracts scratches and if they have then been polished, the engraving most likely has suffered. Also some dials have issues with age. The caliber is ETA based and usually if looked after, in good working order without major problems.
So, what version did I opt for in the end? I considered a blue or black dial with the gold subdials in an all steel case or an all blue dial for a long time, but then I saw a later version with Arabic lume numerals and a black/dark grey dial. That one immediately reminded me a bit of the Breguet Type XX and I really liked the look on this version. It took me some months hunting to find the right one, but I now can report success.
But wait, those are damn nice and with some effort still real bargains. So why dismiss the blue dial?
Yes, I had to get both of them.
So, the black dial of my 7000s is one of the very last versions. It is Ref 70016 and appears in the 1998 catalogue. What puzzles me a bit is that in the catalogue, the watch has a red chrono central seconds hand, while my watch has a white one. I’m sure the hand is original as the shape is exactly the same and it also does not look like repainted. It is quite possible that GP also manufactured a version with a white hand or perhaps it was changed at a service. After some concerns, I now actually prefer the white hand over the red. There are still enough red accents on the dial.
Another prominent feature is the inner loupe date window, giving it a very retro look, although I confess it renders the date window useless for me as I find it even harder to see than without a loupe due to reflections and distortions.
My choice of strap is a GP dark blue alligator strap with a deployment buckle. I think a tan brown also works well, but I already have that combo on too many watches.
As the blue dial kept bugging me, I had to pull the trigger on a second 7000. This one is much older, dating to 1991. The design of the hands and subdials were different than in the later model, less modern. The blue dial version has a Gold/Steel case. Normally, not my thing, but for some reason here it works really well.
The earlier versions also had the older style buckle in 18mm instead of 16mm. So combining the blue, gold and steel with a nice cognac brown alligator strap.
And on the wrist? Very retro but kinda cool.
For me a real discovery of a watch that is probably often under-rated or dismissed by GP enthusiasts but in fact deserves more attention. So maybe the start of more ventures into the 80ies GP wonders…?
CC
The Girard-Perregaux Richeville reference 2750 is a notable example from the modern Richeville line, introduced in the late 1990s. This specific reference is recognized for its distinctive tonneau-shaped case and chronograph complication, which contributed to its appeal among collectors seeking a watch with a strong design identity from the brand's contemporary offerings. It represents a period when Girard-Perregaux was expanding its design language beyond more traditional forms, offering a blend of classic watchmaking with a modern aesthetic.
This reference features a tonneau case with a stepped bezel and triangular pushers, a design characteristic that defines the Richeville collection. The movement is an automatic chronograph, consistent with the functional requirements of the model. The crystal is sapphire, providing durability and scratch resistance. The case material is typically stainless steel or precious metals, depending on the specific variant, and the dial color can vary, with blue being one documented option.
The Richeville 2750 appeals to collectors interested in Girard-Perregaux's output from the late 20th century, particularly those who appreciate the brand's exploration of shaped cases and integrated chronograph designs. Its design elements, such as the case profile and pusher style, distinguish it within the broader chronograph landscape and within Girard-Perregaux's own catalog of the era. The reference was available with various dial colors, adding to its collectibility.
And lovely pieces you showed us Best D
at least growing up as a teenager those years and going through all this. Thanks, my friend. CC
Idea to the Purists high priests: This post and others should be copied to an special sub forum "Classic Posts" to perpetuate it. Congratulations. Cheers, Nilo
,always good to have a bit of fun. I guess my B/W shot convinced you CC
But music was not bad at all, at least for my taste. There were plenty of great albums from Black Sabbath (with Ian Gillan and DIO), Michael Schenker, Iron Maiden, The Cult, AC/DC (Back in Black & For Those About To Rock), Whitesnake, The Cure, Duran Duran and many, many others. In terms of cars, a complete disaster. When it comes to watches, my "school boy's wet dream" came in the form of a CFX-20. I was never tired about its functions and 23 buttons. It was so sadly gone by the hands of a coup
we all went through it. Only thing for me, the rising of (good, underground) electronic music in the 90ies made me change my tastes, but now discovering the roots, the funk and soul of the 80ies. Great stuff. Glad you enjoyed. The blue dial is not for everyone, agreed, but this blue has so many different shades of blue, depending on the light. Cannot judge from photos. CC
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