Comparison
Amanico draws a comparison between the 2016 Girard-Perregaux Laureato and the Vacheron Constantin Overseas, noting their shared aesthetic roots in the 1970s. He positions them as modern contenders to iconic integrated bracelet sports watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus, offering his initial thoughts on their appeal.
The Royal Oak reference 5402 is recognized as the original iteration of the model, introduced in 1972. This reference established the design language that would define the Royal Oak collection, characterized by its integrated bracelet and octagonal bezel secured by visible screws. It was initially presented as a luxury sport watch, distinguishing itself through its material and finishing in a period dominated by more traditional dress watch aesthetics. The 5402 was produced in various series, with the A-series being the earliest and most sought after by collectors.
The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case, often referred to as the "Jumbo" size, which was considered substantial for its era. It houses the self-winding Caliber 2121, a thin movement derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre's Caliber 920, known for its full-rotor design. The movement provides a power reserve of approximately 40 hours. The crystal protecting the dial is acrylic, and the watch offers a water resistance of 50 meters, suitable for general wear.
For collectors, the reference 5402 holds significance as the foundational model of a major watch series. Its various production series (A, B, C, D) present nuances in dial text and case back engravings that are closely examined. The integrated steel bracelet is an integral part of its design, contributing to its distinct profile. The blue dial, often with a "tapisserie" pattern, is a hallmark of this early reference, though other dial variations exist.
of course, the GP is even closer to my heart and surely need to see it in the flesh asap! BTW: is the side-by-side representative in size? CC
Sometimes even the best ones can be wrong ;-)
This is all subjective, of course, but the 70s emphasis is not to my taste. I find it very strange that VC would adopt, and integrate into its entire line of sport watches, a 70s motif. GO did fine with its 60s theme, but that was a narrow line of watches. The Royal Oak transcends the 70s at this point, and the Nautilus isn't far behind, so I view those as exceptions. VC seems to be attempting to do what AP and, to a lesser extent, Patek were able to do, but I don't think the Overseas wasn't as
But sometimes, it has its charm. Best, Nicolas
The case architecture is eye-catching. But I do think this new Laureato has tons of character and charisma. I would choose it over the VC, over the Nautilus and over the Ingenieur. The Royal Oak? That is the true test.
The VC looking slightly more harmonious to me among the two just because it has less text on the dial, but both will warrant a look in the metal. 70\'s theme isn\'t a bad one, as a lot of nice watches came out in that era, but a white date window for both...I would think that a blend into current times with one that matches the dial color isn\'t so hard to do! Thanks for sharing this side by side comparison picture.
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