I always loved Girard Perregaux.
Since my very first steps in the Belle Horlogerie World, I had a soft spot for this brand, indeed.
I owned some watches from them, such as the WW TC, the Laureato 3, and ... The Vintage 45 ref 25990 in white gold / black dial.
With time passing, I sold all these watches, to fund some horological projects of mine.
Undisputabely, the piece I missed the most was this Vintage 45 Chrono, and made a promise to myself to find another one, which is now ... Done.
Why do I love so much the Vintage 45?
Because, in my opinion, this is one of these watches which belongs to the iconic time keepers, a very nicely thought design, clearly inspired from the Art Deco movement, a true Classic from Girard-Perregaux since almost 70 years, now, as it has to be precised that the Ref 2599 is a Tribute to the Ref 5420, housing a very nice movement, the Cal GP 91.
The Art Deco Ambiance:
The 5420...
.... The Cal GP 91:
Did you notice the nice arrow shaped bridges? Doesn't that remind you something?
Back to the Ref 2599, the only question is which one to choose. Indeed, from 1999 to 2004, GP released an impressive diversity of dials and metal cases ( platinum, white gold, rose gold, yellow gold, and stainless steel ) of this reference ( Ref 2599, then 25990, which is an evolution in th GPe reference codification, without any other meaning ).
My beloved Vintage 45 Chrono in white gold I had the stupidity to sell some 7 years ago. ( Credit pic: Peter CDE ) :
The different dials which were available, at that time:
And a version I hunted ( in vain ) for several years... The Platinum Chronograph, which belonged to a set of 3 watches ( Chrono / Grande Date, and Power Reserve )
The Chronograph:
The Set:
The set being limited to 50, and the chronograph not available separately, this was an impossible quest.
So, my natural choice was a white metal version, white gold or stainless steel.
I finally opted for the stainless steel, with a nice gilt black dial, as you will soon see.
Let's see it in the details.
The stainless steel version is a limited edition of 2001 pieces ( don't ask me why, I don't know, but it seems a bit illogical, as the watch was released in 1999, not in 2001. )
So, it is one of the 2 versions which came in limited edition, the other one being the platinum with the ruthenium dial.
More interesting than the fact that it is limited, let's focus on the watch in itself, the case, the dial, the movement. There is much to say.
1/ THE CASE:
Let's say it straight, the case is the most interesting visible part of this watch.
How many Chronographs do have such a marvellous case?
The volumes are ideal ( 30 x 31 mm ), although a bit thick ( 12, 75 mm ), in my opinion ( one or two millimeters thinner would have been perfect ).
But the most important is that this case is arched, from the case back to the sapphire.
Needless to say that it doesn't have benefits in terms of aesthetics, only, but also in terms of comfort, once the Chronograph on the wrist.
Have a look at this marvel:
This case is a pure jewel, with a precious look enhanced by the very special lugs, which will " host " a 21 mm strap or bracelet ( the bracelet is in option ) tappered ( 16 mm at the buckle ), which enhances its Vintage look.
We're somewhere between a rectangular and a square shape, here, with an undisputable Vintage look.
The rectangular pushers are in harmony with the case, as well as the perfectly integrated and sized crown.
One question you may have in mind is about the size. Numbers are numbers, but in the real life, the case looks much bigger than it is.
I much prefer this size than the oversized cas which came later, from 2005 and onwards.
Here, for the comparison, the later Vintage 45, with the 25990 ( Picture borrowed to Peter CDE ) :
As always, if you increase the size, you may risk to ruin the original harmony.
The solid case back is pressed, and arched as the rest of the watch. Sensual, isn't it?
2/ THE DIAL:
I showed you the amazing richness of dials which were available during the 5 years of the Vintage 45 production.
If you're more fan of a sporty and modern look, you can go for the black dial, 6 and 12 in luminous material, and round chronograph subdials.
If you prefer the top of the top in terms of elegance, then the ruthenium dial is for you ( my very favourite combination, as I already wrote ).
All the others ( at the exception of the Red " Ferrari " dial, which is the only one I don't like ) are playing the nostalgic card of the Vintage, and are very " à propos " on such a case.
A special mention has to be given to the salmon dial with the applied 12 and 6, and the round counters, which blends class and retro look in a brilliant way.
Everybody will easily find HIS dial, HIS best combination, for sure, with such a wide offer.
I opted for one of the most retro dials: The black one with gilt writings, indexes and hands.
The dial, as the rest of the watch is arched, and doesn't break the sensual harmony of this superb Chronograph.
Sensual, harmonious, and very well made, it blends round, rectangular and square volumes, if you pay attention to the Chronograph subdials.
The 2 counters are dug, into their own rectangular frame, deeper at the center of the dial than on its side. Amazing details, following the arched shape of the dial:
Symmetry, balance, harmony and a great care about the details, this dial, or better, these dial require a certain time to appreciate all their richness.
The empty gilt leaf hands ( Hour, Minute, small second, and 30 minutes Chrono hand ) are unique to this dial, when all the others have Dauphine hands, both being conform to the elegant character of this Chronograph.
To add some dynamism and life, GP painted the small arrow of the Chronograph second hand in red as well as the two 30 and 60 second and minutes indexes.
What's not to love?
3/ THE MOVEMENT:
The Cal GP 3080 is an automatic 38 jewels Chronograph movement, beating at the rate of 28 800 vibrations per hour.
We are far from having said all, here as there are two or three interesting informations to share.
1/ This is one of the smallest automatic Chronograph movement: 10 1/2''', which corresponds to a 23,30 mm diameter.
It is 6, 28 mm thick, to be complete with its dimensions.
2/ It is a column wheel chronograph.
3/ Last, but not least, it is a 100% in house movement, as the base ( GP 3000 ) is of course made by GP, but also the Chronograph module.
How many modern automatic Chronographs can claim that they are in house?
Well, the Ref 2599 was born in 1999, and at this time, Rolex was working on an all new in house movement for the Daytona, Patek waited till 2006 to unveil its offer, the JLC 75x was not born, yet, to make it short, GP had only one contender, as far as I remember, with Zenith housing the famous El Primero, which saw the light in ... 1969.
In house, and not bad looking!
The finish is ok, the decoration is interesting, I would say that it has two negative things:
- The size, which is a tad small on the Ref 2599, but GP was clever enough to not fall into the trend of the see through case backs.
It is even more problematic in a bigger watch, such as the WW TC or the Vintage 66 Chronograph.
- The power reserve, which is a bit just, with 36 hours. If you let it in the box for a whole week end, you will have to wind it and to set the time, before wearing it.
BUT, the crown is a pleasure to use, winding it is a silk moment, if I may say, and the calibre is accurate and reliable ( less than 4 seconds per day on mine, monitered on 10 days ).
4/ GENERAL THOUGHTS AND CONCLUSION:
If you were brave enough to have read the entire post, you will not be surprised if I tell you that, for me, the Vintage 45 Chronograph, in this reference, is not only one of the most interesting modern affordable Girard Perregaux watch, but also one of the most appealing modern automatic Chronograph.
In fact, I don't understand why it is not more often mentionned as a reference Chronograph.
This " 2599 " has so many aesthetical and mechanical assets that it may well be rated above many other competitors of its category, and has something very special, an undisputable Vintage charm in a modern watch, the best of both worlds.
The biggest issue will be to find yours, as the rich diversity of metals and dials will make you hesitate...
But try one, put it on the wrist, and you will feel the immediate pleasure, satisfaction to wear something which can't be confused with any other watch...
Enjoy!
Looking forward to reading your thoughts and comments,
Best.
Nicolas.
This message has been edited by amanico on 2012-09-09 01:52:01 This message has been edited by dxboon on 2012-09-13 07:33:24 
